I got the T1R s coils installed on my GE8 and I wanted to know to all that lowered your Fit and and did get an alignment done please post your before and after specs and to those that didn't get an alignment done how many miles were driven without an alignment and did you notice any wears on their tires. I am just curious to see especially for the rear, the amounts of lowering cause what changes to the rear stock camber/ toe so please include the brand of the springs and the dropped specs so we can see the difference.
It would also be great if the T1R coils users that have their Fit aligned please post your before specs.

 

Just go and but the Ingalls kit:Ingalls Engineering Co., Inc.

Drive around for a couple of weeks to let them settle. Then get the kit.

 

I have had my Tein S-techs (not T1rs but you did say lowering springs in general right?) for about a month now. didnt get an alignment (me and my buddy put them on ourselves so OBVIOUSLY we are pro-mechanics and dont worry about silly things like alignments).

Driven about 1500 miles and no noticeable/abnormal wear. The steering wheel was never off, and the car drives perfectly straight (no handed it for a half mile the other day). I may just be lucky though (or ignorant of whether i need an alignment or not). I was planning on getting an alignment but i probably wont. Planning on new wheels tires soon anyway. Hope that helps lol

 

this should help...
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...your-pics.html

 

You will eat your tires up. Its not the camber that is gonna eat your tires up its the toe. Camber will change up front, but not that bad. However your toe will change drastically. Your fronts now look like this /\. Your tires will make it about 5-8000 miles when you start to notice steel threads on inside edges. Get your front end aligned, only costs $50-$70, but well worth it.

Good spec for fit is -.50 to -1.0 front camber. With stock setting on rear as -1.3 to -1.6.

 

Is the front toe really affected that much?? I mean I assumed a slight change, but enough to wear it out in 5k?. (Guess I was right about being ignorant). Thank you for the input.

 

Bthasht is absolutely right. i've experienced it first hand in my fit. i lowered the car at about 900 miles. when i got to 12000, the tires up front were no longer what i considered safe to drive on.

the car always felt good when driving and the steering was straight but that does not mean the car is within spec.

 

yeah you should definitely get an alignment. it's possible that it's still spot-on, but extremely unlikely, even if it might feel like it.

it's like playing russian roulette, you might get away with it, but you don't want to risk it. and you probably won't get away with it lol.

my friend used to claim he didn't need an alignment, no matter what i tried to tell him. he even got away without one for several months until his tire eventually blew out on the freeway and he totalled one of his rims. at least nobody was hurt.

 

Thanks for the reply alignment is a must after lowering. I am wondering since the rear on the Fit is not adjustable how far off the camber/ toe setting is from the stock setting for the rear for those that have an alignment done.

 

After lowing my car, I brought my car in for an alignment. The guy told me that the front toe was way off and camber was barely off but acceptable (I have comber bolts) but the rear was all still within recommended specs. Im assuming that the rear torsion beam setup doesnt really need much adjustments. The rear suspension looks like a PITA make camber adjustments with the shims and all.

 

I'm lowered and I always get an alignment after lowering my cars. My alignment is always wack after lowering. Alignment is a MUST!

 

Front specs are between -.5 and -1.0. Rear spec is -1.0 and-1.3
rear is non adjustable, however can be shimmed with a spc kit. It is possible, but not needed. No need to do it unless you want to run more than -2.0 camber in rear. I lowered 2 inches front and back. Front camber is set at -1.0, rear is not adjusted at-1.6. That should show you how much changes after lowering in rear.
You should not set camber at zero dispute what certain shops will tell you. Our fits are set negative to counteract understeer. Perfect is -.5 front ,- 1.3 rear.

 

What did you set your front camber to and what springs you drop on and are you on stock/ wheels or aftermarket wheels/tires?

 

I am still waiting for the springs to settle and have an alignment done later. I didn't have the camber bolts install when I got the springs install so hopefully it doesn't change by much but looks like that toe is going to be way off. I am wondering if someone can post what the camber are like without the front camber bolts install during an alignment.

 

I dont have the before/after sheet the alignment guy gave me in front of me at the moment, but IIRC both front tires were about -.5 degree off. And the rear was about the same as well. Im using Tein S-tech springs, aftermarket wheels 16x7 +43, 205/50/16 tires.

 

So judging from the drop of the s-tech which is F1.6/R1.6 and T1R F1.6/R1.4 I shouldn't be that off from you so camber bolts isn't really needed unless you are slam like 2.5" or more
now with your -.5 camber in the front, is that without any adjustment correct?

 

Thats after adjustment/alignment. You should invest in a set of camber bolts, they're pretty cheap.

 

Sorry for asking a lot of questions, so do you still remember the camber readings before the adjustment?

 

you don't need camber bolts, the front camber will be fine.

we have MacPherson struts in the front - camber isn't affected much by lowering. you can get a little bit of free play and camber adjustment with the stock camber bolts, close to plus/minus 1 degree.

 

i mean, with the stock camber bolts, you have enough free play to get equal camber on both sides