1st Gear Stalling at Start-Up (HELP!)
#21
Does everyone see what I mean now about the variations in theory for possible causes of this violent clutch chatter? Insanity.
fitisno, you sound quite certain of this finding. I intially experienced this problem one month prior to Honda releasing this lost motion springs recall notice - with 17,000kms on the odometre. After bringing my car in for the recall service, the car drove smoothly for 3 days. The violent clutch chatter then re-appeared and was worse than ever. After bringing this to their attention and them bringing exhaust valves 1 and 3 back up to Honda spec, the problem has been toned down dramatically, however, not completely gone.
So, you're saying that at 17,000kms into the life of my car, the valves are already out of whack? I speak for many others, so this is no freak accident with just my Fit specifically.
It still boggles my mind.
There was my update, everyone. More next week.
So, you're saying that at 17,000kms into the life of my car, the valves are already out of whack? I speak for many others, so this is no freak accident with just my Fit specifically.
It still boggles my mind.
There was my update, everyone. More next week.
#22
How about you take a sound clip of the clutch chatter.
Mine (GD3) chatters and it is perfectly fine. We have a sprung hub organic disk with a weak pressure plate and a clutch delay valve. It is almost guaranteed to shudder or make noise.
I currently have a sprung hub 6-puck ceramic disc in the race car which makes less noise than the clutch in my Fit. It is also far more "grabby"
Have you ever driven a twin or triple disc clutch? You wouldn't believe the amount of noise they make when fully or partially disengaged.
I have run so many different clutch disc/pressure plate combinations that I am just kind of used to it. I can hear it most when I go to the bank and pull up next to the ATM and it does sound kind of nasty but it is not indicative of any problems. My TOB doesn't make any noise at all so I know it is just a function of how the disc is interacting with the PP.
Have you tried bleeding and/or re-adjusting the clutch or deleting the CDV? (GDs only)
There is an RSX or ITR master cylinder the GE's can use that deletes the CDV as well.
Unless the clutch is slipping or you are having issues with dragging or engagement problems you are fine. Ignore it and just find a smoother way to slip in and out of gear.
Also, Valve tick and clutch chatter have nothing to do with each other what so ever. Seriously, they are entirely independent of one another.
Valve tick is something you get when the lash gets out of line.
They are only connected by the timing chain which is ultimately connected to the crank. If someone tells you they are related that is when you should stop taking their advice and that is all I am going to say on that matter.
Mine (GD3) chatters and it is perfectly fine. We have a sprung hub organic disk with a weak pressure plate and a clutch delay valve. It is almost guaranteed to shudder or make noise.
I currently have a sprung hub 6-puck ceramic disc in the race car which makes less noise than the clutch in my Fit. It is also far more "grabby"
Have you ever driven a twin or triple disc clutch? You wouldn't believe the amount of noise they make when fully or partially disengaged.
I have run so many different clutch disc/pressure plate combinations that I am just kind of used to it. I can hear it most when I go to the bank and pull up next to the ATM and it does sound kind of nasty but it is not indicative of any problems. My TOB doesn't make any noise at all so I know it is just a function of how the disc is interacting with the PP.
Have you tried bleeding and/or re-adjusting the clutch or deleting the CDV? (GDs only)
There is an RSX or ITR master cylinder the GE's can use that deletes the CDV as well.
Unless the clutch is slipping or you are having issues with dragging or engagement problems you are fine. Ignore it and just find a smoother way to slip in and out of gear.
Also, Valve tick and clutch chatter have nothing to do with each other what so ever. Seriously, they are entirely independent of one another.
Valve tick is something you get when the lash gets out of line.
They are only connected by the timing chain which is ultimately connected to the crank. If someone tells you they are related that is when you should stop taking their advice and that is all I am going to say on that matter.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 04-20-2011 at 09:58 PM.
#24
I have never glazed a ceramic clutch, even when pre-loading the drivetrain on the two-step building boost. I can assure you I am using the clutch correctly. Maybe a bit abusive admittedly.
Kevlar/Feramic discs however.. but even then you can re-bed them
Anything from missing or damaged bell-housing dowels, over-worn flywheels, poorly adjusted clutches etc can cause chatter as well. It can admittedly be tough to diagnose.
Kevlar/Feramic discs however.. but even then you can re-bed them
Anything from missing or damaged bell-housing dowels, over-worn flywheels, poorly adjusted clutches etc can cause chatter as well. It can admittedly be tough to diagnose.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 04-20-2011 at 11:38 PM.
#25
I had the same problem but only happened once in a while. Could not start up hill with a fully loaded car, I had to roll back and go out a different way. It has something to due with the humidity and temps too with load. I was at a dock and waiting for a fully loaded heavy truck that was trying to pull out and I never seen a truck shake so much, it took a few minutes to get out. That was driver error too and probably needed a clutch adjustment.
Last edited by SilverBullet; 04-20-2011 at 10:57 PM.
#26
As I noted on my previous post, mine was a pressure plate issue on my '02 WRX. 103K miles later, still running fine. Just won't hang on the hills of San Francisco, or Seattle if I can help it.
How about you take a sound clip of the clutch chatter.
Also, Valve tick and clutch chatter have nothing to do with each other what so ever. Seriously, they are entirely independent of one another.
Valve tick is something you get when the lash gets out of line.
They are only connected by the timing chain which is ultimately connected to the crank. If someone tells you they are related that is when you should stop taking their advice and that is all I am going to say on that matter.
Also, Valve tick and clutch chatter have nothing to do with each other what so ever. Seriously, they are entirely independent of one another.
Valve tick is something you get when the lash gets out of line.
They are only connected by the timing chain which is ultimately connected to the crank. If someone tells you they are related that is when you should stop taking their advice and that is all I am going to say on that matter.
Last edited by Subie; 04-21-2011 at 12:03 AM.
#28
Read the first post carefully, this is only a problem when the car is cold, hence it is not operator error. My 2010 fit just started doing this after 30,000 miles. It never used to do it, and now it even does it when I start the car (when it's cold) - you can feel a pronounced shudder.
#31
As an update to my previous post (one year ago, the day I picked up my fit), the only major clutch chatter I ever had was when I drove the fit through deep standing watter (about 6-8", maybe even more actually). The VSA system went nuts (hate that thing) and brought the car almost to a halt, I had to drop down into first and I assume I got watter in the clutch, because it was slipping and chattering like mad until I was out of the watter and let it dry off.
As a side note, I drove through the same watter on the way home with the VSA off and had no trouble. This was last october when we had all the rain and floding here in NJ.
As a side note, I drove through the same watter on the way home with the VSA off and had no trouble. This was last october when we had all the rain and floding here in NJ.
#33
At least I am consistent.
#34
Not picking on you X_25, just citing and tying it back to https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/site...ck-please.html
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