not really. Sold my last honda (4 banger 2.4L) at 225K miles and 12 years. It went on to be a liquor store delivery vehicle; it didn't get to retire. I followed the minder on it too. It was dumb however and simply tripped every 7,500 miles.

 

That is one person's atypical results, certainly not conclusive of a damn thing.

What about your multi-page diatribe of how the ECU works, yet you've never tuned a vehicle yourself? Or that everyother person with an actual scan-tool telling you to stop making stuff up.

If I have one off day, thats one thing. Your perpetual ignorance on a variety of topics is another.

You embarrassed yourself so badly in the "what grade of gas" thread you had to take a months long reprieve before coming back. I had one day where my discalculia came back to bite me.

At least I was able to man up and admit I made a mistake. I have yet to see you do anything other than tuck tail and hide till it looked safe to return.

And again, he had 7 data points from a single car. Which is conclusive of nothing, for no one. What was your point other than to distract? Oh that's right you didn't have one.

 

Seems pretty conclusive compared to no data from the other camp.

And while I argued some misconceptions I think I owned up to them pretty well.

Still waiting for your comment on the Oak Ridge Labs study. But that doesn't agree with your preconceived ideas.

Time for you to drop some more insults, isn't it?

 

Actually what's funny is my pre-conceived ideas which you'll find detailed on pg4 happen to fall in line quite nicely with the oakridge report which I have since read and found nothing surprising. Apparently the biggest problem with that discussion is no one but me bothered to give a criterion for what clogged constitutes.

And no you get no credit for your feigned attempt at humility while still trying to maintain the overall "points" of what you were trying to say.

The biggest reason being that you never acknowledged that among other things, actual knock is not required for the ECU to pull timing on a given fuel. Or myriad other issues you never addressed before conspicuously disappearing.

 

I checked mine right after buying it new. It was right at the too mark, touching it. So yes very full but not
over. 2010 sport automatic October production.

 

The oak ridge report clogged the filters to the extent of their pulling away from the frames. They quantified this, but at no level of blockage was there any reduction in MPG, only in attainable power. Your position was that reduced MPG would result. Please elaborate.

Didn't realize you were keeping score.

I didn't realize you were taking attendance. Please elaborate on ECUs pulling timing without detecting knock. I'm interested.

Do you have anything to contribute to this thread other than insults?

 

I don't drive like a maniac but the highway from my parents house to mine requires flooring it to 60 almost every time I get on it (and I visit them a couple of times a week). Other roads in NYC that I take frequently are similar...

In 220,000 miles on my past two cars I don't think I'd ever had to add oil. Changed it roughly every 4000 miles until I switched to synthetic, then about every 7,000. (switched most of the way through the second car's term, so maybe 3 or 4 syn oil changes).

 

Sure about your measurement of the 3.8 quarts? And are you sure you firmly bottomed the dipstick in the tube? And did you use the correct filter?
And last, why do you think you have to fill all the way to the upper fill mark? Most vehicles run more efficiently with a little more space for the air in the engine to pump back and fourth between cylinders as the pistons move up and down; reduces power loss. The easier the pumping the better mpg (and power) and Honda may have planned that as the shop manual says 3.8 quarts (3.5 liters; dividing the conversoion of.946 L/qt to the 3.5 liters yields 3.7 quarts, not 3.8 so maybe it is a misprint.) In any case the difference isn't important. Maybe that last .2 quart is difficult to drain. In any case long as you get 3.8 quarts added you should be fine.
'Who knows, perhaps Honda was expecting Fits to get a full 4 quarts from oil changes to avoid 'losing' that .2 quarts and they wanted to be sure the oil pan wasn't overfilled. at 4 qts and designed so.

 

Thank you Mahout. I am feeling Beyer about the oil change now, and am confident all is fine ..thanks to you. Cheers.

 

...am feeling better...

 

I'm at 10025 miles and am at 20%.....I plan on changing when I get down with my week of military duty. I have a my first change free at the dealer but might go to synth 0W20 so perhaps will change oil myself.......easy enough to do. I bet if you go to the dealer it is a 4 quart fillup....they don't hold back on that last .2 quarts

 

I did mine at 4700 miles, 40% oil life indicated. 80% city driving.

 

Silver Bullet - I appreciated the link to pinkbirds article on 0-20 oil, answered a lot of questions in my mind.

 

Here is more info, Hope it dont confuse you.

http://www.kiwi-indian.com/pdf/EPQ409_36-39.pdf

http://mysite.verizon.net/vzerziy1/s...ec_article.pdf

http://www.currysauto.com/Articles/Motul_oil.pdf

http://www.msttn.com/dyna/OilReport.pdf

 

My car was not full at 4qts. I wrote it off as being related to the Mobil 1 oil filter rather than the Honda filter. I agree with everyone that as long as the oil level is within the acceptable range on the dipstick it is OK, but normally the stated oil capacity brings the level right up the MAX mark.

 

"Here's an idea, of someone hasn't done it already. Why doesn't someone just check the oil dip stick level on a brand new Fit? Then everyone would know how it comes from the factory."

FWIW: I purchased a new 2011 Fit Sport/automatic about 3 weeks ago. It now has less than 800 miles on the odometer. Checked the oil level last night and it is about 1/8" above the full mark.

Clifton

 

Update, I dont make things up. I've talked to my son to explain what he meant about synthetics and oil burning when valves are loose. The problem is that Honda valve seals especially the old models have spurs on the valves and seals which can cause the seals to go bad. Synthetics flow better so more oil burns. I also found that the reason synthetics are not needed because of the Moly coatings on the pistons. Moly coats the parts and reduce friction equal to synthetics and if contacts happens the parts are protected.

http://me.engin.umich.edu/autolab/Pu...e/P2008_01.PDF

http://turbolab.tamu.edu/uploads/fil...5/P25-Lec2.pdf

 

The first paper concludes that synthetic oils reduce friction at the same viscosities. This is a good thing, isn't it? I think you were saying that synthetic oil would decrease MPG. How does the first paper support this?

The second paper is a review of seal technology in industrial applications. Of what relevance is the second paper to leakage in automotive valves?

I think we're in agreement that honda makes no recommendation to use synthetics in the Fit.

 

The first paper shows yes there is a difference between synthetics if the is no friction modifiers in the engine but it also shows that with friction modifiers that most new motors have to help meet mpg the benefit is less or not at all. The viscosity or weight is more important.


The second paper shows the theory of how seals work and is up to your interpretation.

Yes, I agree with the 3rd recommendation about Honda with synthetics.

I ran synthetics in my Fit and lost mpg. The oil did stay cleaner but that is not necessarily good because the oil is made to pick up dirt and take it to the filter. I never had to add oil with regular oil at 7500 mile oil change but added 1 quart in the Fit between oil changes at 6000 mile oil changes for the GD3.

 

Nonsense.We've been buiding Honda engines since 1976 and sometimes wiuth Honda engineers. Spurs do not exist on Honda valve shafts thanks to the way they are made and machined and polished.
Anytime the valve seals fail there will be oil passing into the cylinder. And yes, synthetics can easily weep more oil past a failed seal but their lubricant qualities will also more likely protect the seal from failing, usually due to friction from lesser lubricants.
Moly coated piston rings and skirts have very little to do with engine lubrication; more to aid the wearing in of the rings and cylinder walls for long life and smooth faces to aid lubrication.
Good synthetics indeed show higher hp and mpg due to less friction. And longer life before losing viscosity and shear strength, the backbones of internal combustion engine lubrication.