Sport to Base Rear Axle (beam) Swap?
Sport to Base Rear Axle (beam) Swap?
I know i should have gotten a sport if I wanted the rear sway but I prefer the base.
That being said I talked my wife into a sport fit auto and I know for sure that she would not miss the rear sway.
I have a progress rear sway on my base but I could actually use a little more stiffness back there.
They are both sitting next to each other every night. How hard would it be to swap them? Would prefer not to crack the brake lines open.
That being said I talked my wife into a sport fit auto and I know for sure that she would not miss the rear sway.
I have a progress rear sway on my base but I could actually use a little more stiffness back there.
They are both sitting next to each other every night. How hard would it be to swap them? Would prefer not to crack the brake lines open.
Last edited by Chad T; Apr 12, 2012 at 12:59 AM.
I have the progress rear sway installed already.
I want to swap the sport axle beam out of my wife's car (sport fit) into mine (basae fit) so I have the oem sport sway + the progress sway. She will have a base beam in hers and a slightly smoother ride.
Just trying to figure out how possible my evil plan is.
I want to swap the sport axle beam out of my wife's car (sport fit) into mine (basae fit) so I have the oem sport sway + the progress sway. She will have a base beam in hers and a slightly smoother ride.
Just trying to figure out how possible my evil plan is.
Last edited by Chad T; Apr 12, 2012 at 12:42 AM.
Still undetermined to me because it's zero parts cost and I know I'm as good with a wrench as most dealer techs.
I say go for it!
You could probably do it without cracking the brake lines, but that will require you remove the brake drums, and backing plates on both cars. That will definitely take extra time.
I would just remove the lines at the hoses, and swap the entire axle with brakes on them. You will need to bleed the brakes, at the rear wheel cylinders, after the swap tho.
You could probably do it without cracking the brake lines, but that will require you remove the brake drums, and backing plates on both cars. That will definitely take extra time.
I would just remove the lines at the hoses, and swap the entire axle with brakes on them. You will need to bleed the brakes, at the rear wheel cylinders, after the swap tho.

Looks like that would be the way to go. After looking at the service manual it looks like the brake lines actually pass through part of the beam and have to be disconnected to remove the beam so swapping the whole assemblies with brakes would be the most feasible.
Not sure about the wheel sensors though. The manual says to not unplug them which usually means it will store a fault code somewhere. Also my car has vsa and hers does not so I need to figure out if the the brake assemblies would be compatible. Probably would be best if I can keep the sensors on the cars they came with and not unplug them.
I think the wheel sensors should be compatable, since VSA generally just uses the ABs sensors.
Is the rear swaybar on the sport not an add on or welded in place or something? If it isn't welded just swap it over.
I have a base so I honestly don't know. I do know I need to get the progress at least.
Is the rear swaybar on the sport not an add on or welded in place or something? If it isn't welded just swap it over.
I have a base so I honestly don't know. I do know I need to get the progress at least.
I think the wheel sensors should be compatable, since VSA generally just uses the ABs sensors.
Is the rear swaybar on the sport not an add on or welded in place or something? If it isn't welded just swap it over.
I have a base so I honestly don't know. I do know I need to get the progress at least.
Is the rear swaybar on the sport not an add on or welded in place or something? If it isn't welded just swap it over.
I have a base so I honestly don't know. I do know I need to get the progress at least.
The real question, do you have an angle grinder and how are you with a welder.

Seriously though, I wonder if you could buy one from the factory and weld it on?
Well yea I know that, but are you racing the car or something? Seems like a fair ammount of work for minutely reducing understeer on a grocery getter. You already have an aftermarket rear bar, is that really not enough? Anyways, I'm just being devil's advocate here, not really helping you any.
Last edited by Potenza; Apr 12, 2012 at 06:37 PM.
Thanks Howdy. I might take you up on that if I go forward.
Potenza, you are being helpful because these are all questions I'm asking myself. What makes it tempting is i've got a sport beam just sitting there.
It is looking fairly involved though. I especially don't like the idea of cracking open both hydraulic systems and and potentially having problems with the wheel sensors if they would have to be unplugged.
Potenza, you are being helpful because these are all questions I'm asking myself. What makes it tempting is i've got a sport beam just sitting there.
It is looking fairly involved though. I especially don't like the idea of cracking open both hydraulic systems and and potentially having problems with the wheel sensors if they would have to be unplugged.


