2nd Generation (GE 08-13) 2nd Generation specific talk and questions here.

Sport to Base Rear Axle (beam) Swap?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 12:28 AM
  #1  
Chad T's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 462
From: Columbus OH
5 Year Member
Sport to Base Rear Axle (beam) Swap?

I know i should have gotten a sport if I wanted the rear sway but I prefer the base.

That being said I talked my wife into a sport fit auto and I know for sure that she would not miss the rear sway.

I have a progress rear sway on my base but I could actually use a little more stiffness back there.

They are both sitting next to each other every night. How hard would it be to swap them? Would prefer not to crack the brake lines open.
 

Last edited by Chad T; Apr 12, 2012 at 12:59 AM.
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 12:31 AM
  #2  
nickemangione's Avatar
Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 193
From: albany ny
if you search you can find where someone installs the progress rsb in a very detailed write up.... if I remember correctly its like 6 bolts, 3 under each rear spring mount? Good luck!
 
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 12:36 AM
  #3  
Chad T's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 462
From: Columbus OH
5 Year Member
I have the progress rear sway installed already.

I want to swap the sport axle beam out of my wife's car (sport fit) into mine (basae fit) so I have the oem sport sway + the progress sway. She will have a base beam in hers and a slightly smoother ride.

Just trying to figure out how possible my evil plan is.
 

Last edited by Chad T; Apr 12, 2012 at 12:42 AM.
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 12:44 AM
  #4  
nickemangione's Avatar
Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 193
From: albany ny
Oh I see.....my question is is it worth cracking off any bolts on her new car? I don't think the gains would be worth it....good luck tho
 
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 12:58 AM
  #5  
Chad T's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 462
From: Columbus OH
5 Year Member
Originally Posted by nickemangione
Oh I see.....my question is is it worth cracking off any bolts on her new car?
That's the question. Pretty crude setup back there and I have lots of tools...but yes is it worth it.

Still undetermined to me because it's zero parts cost and I know I'm as good with a wrench as most dealer techs.
 
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 01:57 AM
  #6  
Goobers's Avatar
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,295
From: Wandering around.
5 Year Member
If I were in your shoes... I'd probably do it just for shits and giggles.

from what I remember of the parts diagram... it should be relatively straight forward, just potentially heavy.
 
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 09:24 AM
  #7  
FitStir's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,429
From: NYC
5 Year Member
Thumbs up

Nice thinking Chad. Do it.
 
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 09:56 AM
  #8  
Schoat333's Avatar
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 501
From: Brunswick Ohio
I say go for it!

You could probably do it without cracking the brake lines, but that will require you remove the brake drums, and backing plates on both cars. That will definitely take extra time.

I would just remove the lines at the hoses, and swap the entire axle with brakes on them. You will need to bleed the brakes, at the rear wheel cylinders, after the swap tho.
 
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 10:19 AM
  #9  
Chad T's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 462
From: Columbus OH
5 Year Member
Originally Posted by Schoat333
I say go for it!

You could probably do it without cracking the brake lines, but that will require you remove the brake drums, and backing plates on both cars. That will definitely take extra time.
Thanks for the encouragement guys.

Looks like that would be the way to go. After looking at the service manual it looks like the brake lines actually pass through part of the beam and have to be disconnected to remove the beam so swapping the whole assemblies with brakes would be the most feasible.

Not sure about the wheel sensors though. The manual says to not unplug them which usually means it will store a fault code somewhere. Also my car has vsa and hers does not so I need to figure out if the the brake assemblies would be compatible. Probably would be best if I can keep the sensors on the cars they came with and not unplug them.
 
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 11:28 AM
  #10  
x_25's Avatar
Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 524
From: North West NJ
5 Year Member
I think the wheel sensors should be compatable, since VSA generally just uses the ABs sensors.

Is the rear swaybar on the sport not an add on or welded in place or something? If it isn't welded just swap it over.

I have a base so I honestly don't know. I do know I need to get the progress at least.
 
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 01:22 PM
  #11  
nickemangione's Avatar
Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 193
From: albany ny
Originally Posted by x_25
I think the wheel sensors should be compatable, since VSA generally just uses the ABs sensors.

Is the rear swaybar on the sport not an add on or welded in place or something? If it isn't welded just swap it over.

I have a base so I honestly don't know. I do know I need to get the progress at least.
im wondering the same thing...
 
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 03:42 PM
  #12  
Chad T's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 462
From: Columbus OH
5 Year Member
Yeah the sport sway is welded into the center of the beam. Hence the need to change the whole beam to swap it.
 
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 04:03 PM
  #13  
x_25's Avatar
Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 524
From: North West NJ
5 Year Member
Originally Posted by Chad T
Yeah the sport sway is welded into the center of the beam. Hence the need to change the whole beam to swap it.
Ahha. Ok, now I know.

The real question, do you have an angle grinder and how are you with a welder.

Seriously though, I wonder if you could buy one from the factory and weld it on?
 
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 05:04 PM
  #14  
Potenza's Avatar
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 152
From: Indianapolis
Why do you need more rear sway stifness?
 
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 05:22 PM
  #15  
x_25's Avatar
Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 524
From: North West NJ
5 Year Member
Originally Posted by Potenza
Why do you need more rear sway stifness?
The bass is wallowy and flops around.
 
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 05:29 PM
  #16  
Chad T's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 462
From: Columbus OH
5 Year Member
Originally Posted by Potenza
Why do you need more rear sway stifness?
Less understeer. It will make the car rotate better coming into a turn.
 
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 05:51 PM
  #17  
Howdy's Avatar
Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 183
From: Columbus, OH
5 Year Member
Feel free to PM me if you want assistance. I've never swapped out a rear beam but I'm sure I can help you move the axles around.
 
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 06:34 PM
  #18  
Potenza's Avatar
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 152
From: Indianapolis
Originally Posted by Chad T
Less understeer. It will make the car rotate better coming into a turn.
Well yea I know that, but are you racing the car or something? Seems like a fair ammount of work for minutely reducing understeer on a grocery getter. You already have an aftermarket rear bar, is that really not enough? Anyways, I'm just being devil's advocate here, not really helping you any.
 

Last edited by Potenza; Apr 12, 2012 at 06:37 PM.
Old Apr 13, 2012 | 07:23 AM
  #19  
Chad T's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 462
From: Columbus OH
5 Year Member
Thanks Howdy. I might take you up on that if I go forward.

Potenza, you are being helpful because these are all questions I'm asking myself. What makes it tempting is i've got a sport beam just sitting there.

It is looking fairly involved though. I especially don't like the idea of cracking open both hydraulic systems and and potentially having problems with the wheel sensors if they would have to be unplugged.
 
Old Apr 13, 2012 | 07:55 AM
  #20  
Schoat333's Avatar
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 501
From: Brunswick Ohio
Just realized your in Columbus. I'd be glad to drive down and help out as well. That would be a fun project.
 



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:26 PM.