The plug doesn't look alike a hex nut, but something else. What type of socket would fit into the plug? 3/8 " ratchet itself?

Thanks

 

A 3/8s drive ratchet or 3/8s drive extension.

 

Thanks ! Will try it later... using a breaker bar.

 

You shouldn't need a breaker bar for that, it's torqued similarly to an oil drain plug. Make sure you're turning the right way before you bust out that breaker bar.

 

Cool. I'd highly recommend loosening the fill bolt FIRST before loosening the drain bolt (so you don't be stranded if it won't loosen after you drained) and replace the drain bolt's washer (so you don't leak ATF).

It shouldn't be too hard to loosen so a breaker bar could be overkill but will still work. I personally would use a 1/2 inch drive ratchet (since they're usually longer than 3/8s) with a 3/8s adapter just to have the additional leverage from the 1/2 inch drive and know that my tool is set to loosen or tighten (I have dyslexia LOL) when messing with that drain plug.

 

Replace the crush washer too.

 

Doesn't turn at all using normal 3/8 ratchet... Various posting on the topic indicate that people had trouble loosening the plug for the first time.

 

Wanna guess how I know you don't know what you're talking about?

Anyway, I didn't have much trouble getting the bolt lose. It's a bit tighter than the oil plug (30 something ftlbs rather than 20 something) but not too bad. Iirc, I used my 1/2 drive socket because it was a bit longer, but I didn't have to go with a breaker bar or impact driver.

 

Thanks guys for the prompt response and help. I got the plug loosened, finally!

I sprayed WD40 on it, came back 10 min later... tried normal size ratchet -> failed... so used 3/8 breaker bar and tapped hard with palm on the end of the bar to loosen the plug. I am going to torque to spec (36 lb.ft ) for next time.

BTW, a nearby dealer charged almost $3 for the 18mm washer (part #:90471-PX4-000 - retail is supposed to be $2.04). Bought 4 of them and got a case of DW-1. Dealer said he was giving me a $2 discount per quart ( i.e. $6.50 instead of $8.50 per quart) as I was buying a case. The price was decent even when compared to the internet pricing/shipping ( $5.50 quart + shipping )

Instead of doing the Honda "flush" ( aka drain/fill 4x ), I am going to drain/fill the ATF every 5K miles until I use up the case of DW-1. I read posts where others removed the ATF hose going into the radiator to "completely" flush the AFT, but I don't feel comfortable doing that now. I am filling via the dip stick using the "Transmission funnel" from Autozone ($2.50 ). I will do the ATF filter (25430-PLR-003) replacement sometime between 60K to 100K ( or when I get more comfortable doing DIY stuff on the Fit ). I am about 36K now.

 

You can fill the tranny through the dipstick hole. I use a funnel with a piece of fuel line hose attached. Easier than messing with the fill plug.

 

There is no fill plug....

 

No... How about you tell why you think I don't know what I'm talking about?

Ummmmm.... >.> ................ <.< ................ ^.^

What's this?



Here's the same image, just rotated.

DSC_2818-1.jpg?t=1341702841

Mind you, this was on my GD... I'd take pictures of a GE but I do not have access to one at this time; however I do have access to this... Can you tell us what is the description says for part number 8 please?

 

I stand corrected, though as near as I can tell, you're never supposed to open that. FSM says fill via the dip stick tube, and I don't want to contemplate what a pain it would be to get access to that.

 

Hey, its all good.

I checked Mitchell On Demand before posting up originally and was a bit confused since it did also list using the dipstick tube as a filling point (nothing wrong with it, I just prefer using the larger fill port) but nothing of a fill bolt and I knew GD transmission had a fill bolt; so, I checked on Bernardi parts for the bolt on the GE transmission.

 

After popping the hood, I'm pretty sure the only way to get to that fill bolt would be to remove the air box entirely. Just feeling around under it, I can't even find where I would think the bolt could possibly be. Given a choice between using the dip stick tube and pulling the hood cowling and air cleaner to get to the "proper" fill port, I'll go with what the FSM and owners manual say.

 

Yeah, the air box would pretty much have to be removed in order to access the drain bolt with basic hand tools. However, if someone has the correct sized swivel socket and a long enough extension(s) the bolt can be removed; just have to have a funnel or fluid dispenser with a long enough tube to reach over the air box and into the transmission.

 

Page 14-227 of The Honda 2007 Fit Service Manual says,
"Remove the filler bolt, and refill the transmission with the recommended fluid into the filler bolt hole to bring it to the upper mark on the dipstick."

 

And the 09 fsm says fill via the dip stick hole.

 

That's for the GD chassis not GE; even though there is a filler bolt on the GE A/T, it is recommended in the service manual to use the dip stick tube like malraux and I said earlier.

My take on these two points of filling: If you can reach the dip stick tube with your funnel/dispenser's fill tube by all means go for it, save yourself a few bucks by not having to get a new fill bolt washer. If you have fairly large hands and can't easily get access to your dip stick tube (like me), save the headache and go pick up a fill bolt washer, remove the air box off (if you don't have a fluid dispenser), and use that port to add the ATF.

 

funny, I did this yesterday (2nd drain fill with DW-1 bringing it up to about 70% synthetic).

It was cold, had sat overnight. More than 2.6 quarts drained, maybe about 3.3. Anyway have 4 quarts fluid handy when you do this.