I really wanted to have an auxiliary 12 volt socket that provided power even when key was off. I did not want to spend $25.00 for an OEM socket and cover (as quoted by Round Rock Honda).

This is the socket I ended up purchasing for six bucks and change.



The item was purchased from this seller. It took about 2 and ½ weeks to show up in the mail.
favorhk | eBay

The first part of the project included making a mini low profile fuse tape (using solder and patience). I would have been tempted to loosen and tie into the screw that holds the main white feed wire to the fuse box assembly. I currently don’t have the radio codes for the car so did not want to chance locking out the radio. It might have been just as easy to go directly to the battery. I looked at commercial fuse taps but those available don’t appear to be low profile.



Next remove the plastic piece just above the trim that holds the original 12 volt socket. I used a small screw driver and pried it back until I could peal it off. The bottom easily snapped right out once the upper trim was removed. You will want to reinstall the bottom piece first when putting the trim back in place.

Then run the wire over to the open cavity where the wire can attached to the new socket. I did my best to place the wire away from any of the sharper metal trim edges. I used a couple of zip tries to keep the wire in place. I chose not use the hot wire that came with the 12 volt socket mainly to avoid having a fuse behind the trim. I might also go back and add a heavier ground wire.



Drilling the mounting trim is quite easy. I used this kind of drill bit (one inch). One trick is to drill one side first and score the plastic with the outer part of the bit. Then place the bits point into the opposite side and finish drilling the hole. Doing this makes a very clean drill hole. I practiced on a plastic bucket lid to get the hang of it before drilling the trim.



The after market socket fits very tight into the one inch hole. The plastic cover may not be as durable as the Honda socket but still appears to have a good build quality. The socket itself (not including the mounting hardware) appears to be the same as the Hondas.

I used a self-taping screw to attach the ground to the fit as shown.



Here is the finished product. Not original honda but in my opinion still looks good. I chose to install the plug in the middle so it would be between the two drink holders. I will probably order another socket and add a third outlet. FYI the trim that was drilled is only 12 dollars from Honda. Makes it real easy to go back to the original look.
I won't take any offense to suggestions. I was in a real hurry to finish the project before leaving on a 1200 mile trip to FL. Feed back on how to wire directly to the battery might especially be helpful.

 

I did something similar when installing heated seat pads. I used the wiring for the existing outlet. Made up a couple of "Y" harnesses to connect both the pads and outlet together. Doing it this way utilizes the existing fuse.

I messed up and did not drill holes even. No problem as I usually have junk in cup holders so you can hardly see the switches.

 

You bring up a good point. I should have marked the spot for the 3rd socket before drilling or installing the extra outlet. I think it would have bee easier to line them all up first.

 

So which location in the fuse box did you tap to?

 

Nice pics, im doing the same but back of center console. Where did u hit 12v?

 

Hmmmm.... Good DIY...

 

If you want to add a second outlet at rear of console then just tap into the existing outlet on the dash. It is a 20 amp circuit. I run my GPS off the original socket and my heated seats off the Y connections I made with no blown fuse.

or

if you want a separate fused circuit use an add-a-fuse and put it in the fuse box at the accessory fuse. It is fuse #13, The yellow 20 amp one in the second row from left the 4th one down.

I added one here to run my white LEDs in the grill.

Ignore the green arrow in the pic that is the fuse puller.

Drawing1.jpg?t=1258318061

 

Sorry For a very out of date reply. I've been out of state for almost a month.

I just tapped into one of the empty female Low profile fuse holders located by all the other fuses under the dash. There are several available. It was a little bit of a hassle to make the male fuse "power Tap" but I'm to cheap to pay the almost 20 bucks that wanted for a low profile mini tap (plus shipping). The following link may not work in the future. Just Google: "low profile mini fuse tap". Remember the mini non low profile ones will not work. One place had them for 37.00. Ouch

15 Amp low profile mini pigtail fuse tap | eBay

 

When you say you tapped into an empty female slot could you tell us where? Maybe a pic? What did you use? Do you have it fused?

Yes those pigtails are expensive and must use the Mini ones..

 

I used an "Add-a-Fuse" when I wired up my Radar Detector. Took me about 3 minutes and cost about $7 while being available at any auto parts store. removable and it piggy-backs onto another currently used Fuse without losing that spot. I have a photo in my thread about Wiring up the V1. I used to Tap wires, solder stuff like that but not any more.

Also, when I drilled out the holes for my tweeters on both of the Integras, I found that if I ran the Hole Saw (Needed a bigger hole than a drill bit would cover) in reverse, it took a tiny bit longer but made a very smooth cut.

~SB

 

i think you might want to pull a new lead from the battery if one's going to be pulling more than 10A, that's just me.

for radar detectors that use less than 1A, if you want to be REALLY cheap, you can push a thin wire into a switched fuse spade, and solder a 1A fuse inline. cost...pretty much free if you have a fuse. hahaha.

for clean installs up to 10A, i too use add-a-circuit.

 

Agreed but chances are, you wouldn't be pulling a "Non-Switched" line for something that draws 10A or more. I'm guessing the OP wanted an always on for charging a cell phone or similar device.

~SB

 

yah, i was referring to pulling power in general..which usually is switched.

the car's battery is small enough, dont drain it. <= this also general statement.

 

The yellow arrow is where I found a unused fuse location on the fuse panel. The fuse tap was easy for me to make but may not be for everyone.

The blue arrow answers the question "is the outlet is fused". You can pick up one of these in line fuse holders from almost any auto parts store (cheap). I wanted to locate the fuse where it was easy to replace.

The red arrow is pointing to what looks like the main source of power to the fuse panel. AFTER REMOVING THE GROUND CABLE !!!! It would be interesting to see if the screw that attaches the white wire to the fuse box could be a source of power. Once the screw is removed an electrical Stud Eyelet with a short wire whip could be used to gain access to 12 volts. Not sure how tight the screw is but might be worth investigating.

specboy

The only add-a-fuse I have found at local auto part stores (that even looks like a Honda Fuse) is for Mini fuses. It has been my impression that they do not work with the low PROFILE mini fuse panels. Please share your thoughts on this. Your 7 dollar solution certainly is the least time consuming way to get power from the fuse panel.

[IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

 

Thanks CiCI. Is that location you are using hot all the time or is it switched?

The low profile add a fuse is around $15 here if you can find them.

I was looking at shop manual and in the bottom left it shows that as the #60 fuse which is 50 amp for ignition switch? So maybe this is a source of 12 V .

 

The Mini add-a-fuse is what I used and it fits right into the Low Profile Fuse slot. The difference between the low profile and mini is the "spades" are recessed on the Low Profile. Look at the photos linked in my Signature in the V1 Hardwire page and you'll see how the Add-a-fuse sticks out a little from the fuse box.

~SB

 

^^ this is true. my 370Z is the same way and im using standard mini-add-a-fuse. fits perfectly.

 

I have power all the time.

It's nice to be able to leave my cell in the car while I do a quick errand when the battery is getting low.

I read in a Toyota forum that a guy could not get a mini to work in his Tundra. I assssumed it would not work in the fit either.

I just tried putting a normal mini fuse into one of the empty slots and as a couple of you have noted it does work. This is really good information to know. The problem is that it takes a little bit of rocking-pushing before it will slide in place. My guess is the fuse did not go in as easy as the low profile and the guy just gave up.

 

That's Similar to the one I used (also ordered from Amazon). Of note for those reading this, if adding this to a currently in-use circuit, you can't re-use the low profile fuse in the Add-a-fuse. you need to pick up some extra fuses. if you are goign to use this in a fit. i picked up the variety pack as it was cheap. Junkyard is also another great place to get fuses... especially if you are looking for another part. Most any newer car uses Mini or Low profile.

~SB

 

Good tip!

I usually run certain bits in reverse as well to start holes, but never straight thru. I'm also not cutting plastics, usually it's wood, and other construction material.

I too used the mini fuse taps with good results.