I've been using Mobil 1 Full Synthetic for past 11 years on all my cars and never had a single issue to date with it. On my Fit I've changed oil 3 times and I have 36,xxx miles on it.

 

I was wondering how this work I knew it was not actually reading the oil condition since the last oil change the dealer did not reset so it was not reading 100%.

Got the car on June 1, 2012 (a little over 100 miles on it from a Buffalo dealership to the local dealer in order to get a manual transmission) now with 13k miles had the oil changed twice dealer recommended 5k but the first two were free now will use the maintenance light anticipate next change at 25k in about 6 months.

 

The reason for a time limit, typically 6 mo, is that every day the engine oil pan breathes out as it heats and sucks air in at nite when the temperature cools, thus potentially drawing in water vapor in the air and water contaminated oil is corrosive. The mileage minder doesn't really take that in consideration and unless you're in a garage at nite the advce is change oil and filter at 6 months or 6000 miles, whichever first occurs.

 

Yes the maintenance minder really does take this into consideration. Average engine temperature is one of the factors it considers, alleviating the need for more frequent changes due to condensation when sustained operating temperatures are not achieved.

The mileage minder on my '97 Honda, not so much...

This is an honest dealer with regard to oil changes...

 

Yes' engine temperatures (and time) may be considered in calculating mileage to change oil and filter but your cooling system and thermostat should keep the engine temperature pretty constant. But thats not related to water pickup in the crankcase; just how do you think the water content in the oil is measured? Thats not a consideration by the mileage minder. When the crankcase breathes the intake and exhaust from the crancase is subject only to ambient air temperature changes compared to the crankcase temperature whether the engine is running or not. That particularly is involved when the crankcase pulls in outside humid (wet) air as the engine cools. Thats why limits on time to change oil and filter is involved. Then there is that capacity of the oil filter to hold the contaminants filtered ...

 

The engine is detuned until break in at 5000/10000 miles. I am seeing that on my new car on the ultra gauge. My wife did a lot of short trips and the oil change came at 5000 miles. The MM will tell you and it works really good and Honda has it right. Honda also uses a additive package in the first oil and should go to the end of the MM 15 percent. Oil are way better and with low sulphur fuels the problems of the past are rare so 10000 miles is easy. You still have to check the oil level.

 

It's not a mileage minder. That's so '90s...

Temperature and time ARE considered. Mileage is secondary (I believe revolutions are measured).

The maintenance minder uses the length of time at operating temperature, necessary to boil off contaminants as a factor in oil life. Without sustained running at operating temps the interval between oil changes is much less.

That's why some Fit freakers have 3,500 mile intervals and others have 12,000 mile intervals.

Do you advise people to wait until 6,000 miles when their maintenance minder indicates 15% oil life at 3,500 miles? Get with the act Mahout. You're smarter than this.

 

Where are you getting that 'detuned til break-in from"; it doesn't show on programming analyses.
Break-in still is better if you vary rpm regularly, only occasionally take it to red line, don't 'lug' the engine, and drive more than 8 miles before stopping. Any engine builder will verify that.
Anyone who drives the first 1500 miles 'like they stole it" simply shortens their vehicle's engine life; Pushing the performance envelopoe quickly does damage to rings especially and often scores cylinder walls.
In short, don't be too easy on your Fit but don't be too hard either.
PS that varying rpm is about rings not establuishing a 'ledge' at the top of the stroke; beleve it or not the stroke does chanange with rpm and load. Very small of course but when you start whacking that 'ledge' set at 4000 rpm on the way to 6500 rpm that ledge will crack rings. its one thing driving like you stole it is not a disadvantage but dioesn';t correct for poor lubrication..

 

We've had some 50 cars and trucks for daily and racing use and not one failure of any kind due to lubrication. Even better we've used our dyno to demonstrate that Mobil ! results in more hp, aboiut 3 to 4%, (reduced friction) and better high rpm protection thru dyno runs, some more than 12 hours long at very high rpm and loads.
So we agree.

 

That isn't entirely true, i been using this method of break-in since 1998 on all my new cars and bikes, never one issue, in fact one engine i tore it down for a full race build and even after 60K miles street and race use inside was completely like new and pristine condition, running it hard is how you seat all the moving parts. Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

I've been using the "drive it at varying speeds; avoiding full throttle starts" break-in method since 1978 as this was the recommended procedure given in the owners' manuals across a dozen new cars of domestic, Japanese, and German manufacture. Never had an engine issue.

Anecdotal evidence isn't very useful, is it?

Motoman's website has no corroborating studies indicating the benefits if driving new engines hard. His evidence is entirely anecdotal. His website is unprofessional; have you looked at his home page? This is not someone whose advice I'd look for on music, much less mechanics.

 

Break in however you wish, i do it by what works for me. A technician here has a 04 Matrix XRS that was broken in Moto-tune way and has 327k miles on it all original parts besides regular wear items like water pump and belts. In fact regardless of how a engine is broken in, mechanical engine failures are extremely rare, most problems engine wise was from lack of maintenance, modern engines are extremely reliable for the most part.

 

qft.......

 

Honda is using preset maps and wont allow timing advance. I wish I had the ultra gauge for the Fit and in the beginning of the first Civic. I did see the difference after putting on the mileage. This car with almost 5000 miles I am finally seeing advance at idle but at cruise the timing retards and EGR goes through the roof. When I give a little gas the timing should go up but it retards more. What I am seeing is the ecu is building a map in close loop 1 cell at a time. The timing goes up but then it goes back retards past the preset. At idle I see 10 or higher fuel trims when new and now its around 5 and I still see the timing hunting. As the timing advances the fuel trims lean out or go closer to 0.

Basically Honda uses a safe timing and fuel program until the motor is broken in at the same time rewriting the maps so when the first oil change happens at 10,000 it starts applying it. This is what I have noticed.

I make sure the engine is warm before getting on it and only for a few seconds and that was after 4000 miles on the car. Right now I am trying to hit all the different ranges without WOT. I am also using premium.

 

Always first oil change must be according to the miles it has travelled. Maybe it could be done between 4000-7000 miles

 

nonsense.

read the owners' manual.

here, I'll help:

 

If you find that you "just must" change the OEM Honda intial fill of motor oil before the Maintenance Minder tells you to, squeeze a couple ounces of Moroso Molybdenum Disulfide Grease into the oil fill (on a hot engine).

LINK: $20 Moroso MoS2 Assembly Grease; 4 oz. Tube (Click Here)


Your oil will turn black quickly (expected and normal) but you will have molybdenum disulfide floating around in your oil (good thing).

 

I wouldn't put too much of that in, Ive heard that stuff could clog oil filters.

 

Molybdenum motor assembly pastes solvate in motor oil by design (especially if the oil and motor are already hot).

Nothing to clog really.

I suppose one could disolve some in some new motor oil over a heat plate but.....if one is going to all that trouble, you might as well just leave the initial fill oil in.

Again, chemically speaking, it is doable. Practically, I wouldn't advise it.

 

Ive been using Chevron dino oils (Delo 400 and Supreme) for longer than that and never had a single issue with it. So what? Every modern motor oil is so good (as long as you use the correct type and viscosity) that there should be no issues. Typical, and rare, engine failures today involve blown head (Ford) or intake manifold (GM) gaskets, overheating (BMW plastic water pumps), etc. Oil lubricated parts have nothing to do with these problems.