Getting my rear coils to sit lower
Getting my rear coils to sit lower
I have BuddyClub N+'s and the front had no problem getting to where I want to sit, but the rears won't sit any lower. I already have a perch removed and I don't see much more I can do. As it is, the spring doesn't seat when it three wheels because the spring is too short to do so. Also, I'm fairly sure the shock is adjusted to as short as it can be, only the lower mount spins when the perch is loosened and it seems to only be able to be adjusted higher:
Pre-perch removal

Now that I took a perch out it feels a bit sketchy with the rear spring having the capability to pop out, but it still tends to rake a bit:

Any recommendations on what I should do? Please don't just say "raise the fronts," or anything along those lines. I'm just trying to get the ass to sit.
Pre-perch removal

Now that I took a perch out it feels a bit sketchy with the rear spring having the capability to pop out, but it still tends to rake a bit:

Any recommendations on what I should do? Please don't just say "raise the fronts," or anything along those lines. I'm just trying to get the ass to sit.
Last edited by FittedOnEm; Dec 20, 2012 at 02:31 PM.
The spring isn't captive at all anymore? You should ziptie the spring to the bottom mount, use the holes that are already there so it doesn't pop out up a driveway.
If the perch is no longer there I don't see much else you can do except cut 1/2 coil off the spring or something like that or get different rear springs. You could cut out the bottom spring mount, add material and reweld it to make it sit deeper? Hope you have welding skills or know someone who does, I guess more dangerous than just cutting the springs at that point though
If the spring isn't captive and the car is that dumped you might as well just cut it, car is mostly for show anyway, so who cares?
If the perch is no longer there I don't see much else you can do except cut 1/2 coil off the spring or something like that or get different rear springs. You could cut out the bottom spring mount, add material and reweld it to make it sit deeper? Hope you have welding skills or know someone who does, I guess more dangerous than just cutting the springs at that point though

If the spring isn't captive and the car is that dumped you might as well just cut it, car is mostly for show anyway, so who cares?
you need shorter shocks. so that when the rear lifts, the shock won't extend enough for the spring to fall out.
For GE Fits, the OE shocks extend just enough for Swift springs at full extension (no pulling or pushing on the spring).
I'm surprised I'm responding here about a "need new springs look" you're going for.
For GE Fits, the OE shocks extend just enough for Swift springs at full extension (no pulling or pushing on the spring).
I'm surprised I'm responding here about a "need new springs look" you're going for.
The spring isn't captive at all anymore? You should ziptie the spring to the bottom mount, use the holes that are already there so it doesn't pop out up a driveway.
If the spring isn't captive and the car is that dumped you might as well just cut it, car is mostly for show anyway, so who cares?
If the spring isn't captive and the car is that dumped you might as well just cut it, car is mostly for show anyway, so who cares?
I'm aware of that, and it seems that Function&Form's are the only ones that can adjust short enough to keep the spring in place. I'm asking before I consider new rear shocks because there are a few others on BuddyClub's that are running lower than I am, so I'm curious as to what they did to get lower.
you need shorter shocks. so that when the rear lifts, the shock won't extend enough for the spring to fall out.
For GE Fits, the OE shocks extend just enough for Swift springs at full extension (no pulling or pushing on the spring).
I'm surprised I'm responding here about a "need new springs look" you're going for.
For GE Fits, the OE shocks extend just enough for Swift springs at full extension (no pulling or pushing on the spring).
I'm surprised I'm responding here about a "need new springs look" you're going for.
His shocks body length can be shortened to accommodate the lower stance so thats not the issue. His coils are nearly at the lowest setting, the only thing you can do left is remove one of the lock collars and use just 1 at the lowest setting locked into the upper seat. Beyond that i dont think you can do much beyond going bagged. The suspension can only articulate so much dumped that low.
His shocks body length can be shortened to accommodate the lower stance so thats not the issue. His coils are nearly at the lowest setting, the only thing you can do left is remove one of the lock collars and use just 1 at the lowest setting locked into the upper seat. Beyond that i dont think you can do much beyond going bagged. The suspension can only articulate so much dumped that low.
You could also try different springs, from my experience Swift linear springs sit pretty low, you just need to order a pair with the right I.D. and spring rate, or match the spring rate you already have.
Lots of people do the ziptie thing even in motorsports, I had to do this on the rear on my Corolla (Camaro rear shocks with TRD springs, the shock had a bit too much droop travel). Shorter shocks would be the proper way to solve the captive issue, but zipties will work just fine for you. Just make sure you get the thickest ones that can fit in the holes or get metal ties (even better).
You could also try different springs, from my experience Swift linear springs sit pretty low, you just need to order a pair with the right I.D. and spring rate, or match the spring rate you already have.
You could also try different springs, from my experience Swift linear springs sit pretty low, you just need to order a pair with the right I.D. and spring rate, or match the spring rate you already have.
My swift springs came with a rubber wrapping of sorts on the bottom part... they got shredded. And I don't even track.
Agreed, especially if the spring rates are low like it seems many are for the GE. Metal ties are best because 1. they're stronger 2. they sit almost perfectly flat.
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