So I have a 2010 Honda fit and I have been having battery problems this is my 3rd Honda battery. Both times I had them replaced under warranty.

Anyways today I drove about an hour away to my gfs school. Then went to eat at panera. And when I came out my car was dead no lights nothing. I'm currently sitting here waiting for my insurance people to come jump me if that will even work.

I don't know if I can get the battery replaced because it was a 3 year / 3x,XXX miles warranty and I'm passed the 3x,XXX limit but this is battery lasted me for less than a year.

I just have a amp and hids running to the battery nothing else should kill it like this.

How much are good batteries for our car? Any recommendations

 

Do you drive your car every day?

 

A few people on the boards upgraded their battery to the more common and larger group 51R battery, you might want to look into that.

 

Everyday

The guy tried to jump with those jump machines and nothing my lights won't even turn on I'm walking to orileys to buy a battery.

 

Ive never heard of a car not wanting to turn on with a jump box connected. You might have some other electrical problems. If its being jumped the other battery is providing power so even if your battery is bad it should start up. check you alternator.

 

Do not waste your money on a replacement battery. You have other problems.

 

It could be something as simple as a dirty battery cable connection.

 

Have you had the alternator checked? They can do that for free if you can get to an Auto Zone.

 

I'm getting towed by my insurance to another Honda dealer down the street. I'm so screwed I don't think I have enough money for all this.

They are bringing me to Honda after that I don't knowwhat to do.

 

I don't know what to do. The guy used the jump box and nothing no lights no click nothing. Its weird cause I drove it for an hour stopped at a mall then McDonald's then a gas station finally to panera where we ate for 15-20 minutes and now we came back and no lights were on nothing weird I think when I turned off the car it had to have died cause my doors were unlocked when we got back they weren't locksd.

 

Not an expert, but if I understand correctly, bypassing the ELD (electronic load detector) by tying things directly to the battery can cause the battery to be undercharged. The ELD picks up when devices are drawing current and tells the alternator to pump out more juice. When you run straight from the battery, the ELD doesn't see the current draw and the alternator runs in a lower output mode.

 

I'm so lost and frustrated right now. My car was repaired by a collision center when I hit a deer and they installed another kit that way. I'm not sure was there another way to wire up an amp wiring kit.

Maybe a fuse of some sort

Either way its getting towed to the local Honda dealer I just hope I don't get raped but well see. Damn today is not my day

Anyone know how much this might cost me just for them to look at

 

Had similar problem with my old accord. Replaced battery still no click. Turns out my starter rusted off. 300 bucks right there.

 

even when connecting devices straight to the battery, the ELD will acknowledge a load. It will see that the voltage has dropped. While it is not NEARLY as accurate as seeing an amperage load, it will infact turn the amperage up a bit. Barely enough to matter, but should suffice for driving and starting

 

Damn $65 just to look at it and if its under warranty then I'll be fine but I'm sure I'm above 36,000 so Honda please have mercy on me. 65 better not be just to tell me its my lights and stereo.

 

screw that garbage overcharge of a fee


go to autozone or advance or oreillys and have them do btoh a battery AND alternator test


goddamn dealership charging $65 just for a look is arrogant and criminal in my book

 

Yea I thought about that but why tow my car to autozone and then it end up not being a battery or alternator. Then I'd have to tow again.

I hope they find out why the battery dies this is the 3rd Honda battery I've had and they all seem to do the same thing work good for a couple months then die.

And it was going to cost me at least 62 bucks just tow it back to my house so I figured just spend it on this then the part needed compared to 62+65+part.

 

Simple question; have you tried taking the aftermarket amplifier out of the loop?
And I don't man unhook it at the amp, disconnect it at the battery.

 

Nope I never tried that. It was fine before and shuts off when the car is off so I didn't think that would be the probably. Currently just waiting across the street at a hotdog spot thinking how bad its going to be

 

OK so all they are blaming it on is my wiring. Didn't even try another battery they tried to jump it but it didn't work.

They said they checked fuses and found my side marker mirror lighting. So they said they need to do diagnostic testing for 120 first. Also my ambient lighting they had a problem with.

They didn't try a new battery I asked about that but they told me to go wait in the room