So what do you guys suggest is the easiest way to change the oil on a MT and what equipment?

Im planning on getting Redline trans oil and someone suggested a 3/8 tubing to stick in the fill hole, can someone confirm this. I will be doing the gravity method where I run a tube to the fill plug through the engine bay. Also I only have a couple jacks, so I'm planning on
1. Jacking up driver side unscrew both plugs and lowering car back down to drain.
2. Jack back up screw in drain plug and run tubing down through the engine bay to the fill plug.
3. Lower again and fill until I see some oil flowing out of fill plug.
4. Jack back up and screw in fill plug.
This is how I'm picturing the best way for me to complete this job with what I have. If any one has other tips or advice it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Ryne

 

Invest in a set of good quality jackstands. It will make the job easier. Don't skimp on your tools.

Why not just stick with Honda MTF? You know it is compatible with your transmission, and it works fine.

You can get a hand pump, which would make it easier to get the fluid into the transmission. (Amsoil sells one for just this purpose.) Or you can use an air compressor and some tubing, which makes it even easier.

Another tip, make sure you open the fill plug (or at least loosen it) first, before opening the drain plug.

 

I was actually thinking about getting a set of ramps, the only thing is that I'm confused about the car being leveled. If I have the front of the car on ramps will it be sufficient if fill it until it dribbles out of the fill hole or will that not be the true amount of oil needed since the car is slanted? Also I was going to use Redline because I have a few bottles laying around from my other car.

 

The car needs to be level when refilling the transmission. So you would need either 4 ramps, or 4 jackstands.

Make sure the Redline fluid you have is the same viscosity as the Honda MTF.

 

Ok gotcha appreciate the info!

 

That's a lot of jacking.

Just get a pump. I wouldn't even worry too much about putting four wheels up, the plug is close enough to the back of the case that you can just lift the front up.

 

And the gravity method will take forever. Like the man said above, make sure you loosen the fill plug first.

 

Took my Fit in for a loose passenger seat. 30 K miles. Dealer stated it was IMPORTANT to change the tranny fluid...NOW. I knew it was bs, because in addition to being way to early, he tried to sell me $800 of other "needed" service, including wheel rotation and balance. (New tires last week, perfect balance) Anyway, he wanted $189 for the tranny fluid change. Simple job, so I bought 3 qts of DW-1, pulled the plug and did it myself in 10 minutes for $27. If they weren't so greedy, they might get a lot more customers letting them do some work. $189 for 3 qts fluid and 10 min of time. Geeze

 

Make sure you get the correct size drain plug washer. It's not at all the same size as the oil pan drain plug washer. The clerk at my local Honda dealership gave me a washer that was way off. I ended up having to put the old washer back on the car or else I would've had no way to put transmission fluid in without reinstalling the drain plug.

The way I did it is that I drove up onto some rhino ramps and then jacked up the back of the car. Do be careful to make sure that the car is in gear because once you jack up the back wheels the car will just roll off the ramps if it's in neutral, since the parking brake has no effect on the front wheels. I then experimented with different heights with jackstands until I got the car to be about level from side to side and front to back.

Please be aware that this is definitely a two-man job. Draining and filling is all nice and dandy until you get to the end, then how do you know if, using the gravity method, the fluid is actually going into the transmission or is overflowing and going into the pan? I found that it was essential to have a helper pour in about a half a cup at a time until I saw that the fluid was overflowing rather than going into the transmission.

I used the Honda brand transmission fluid and I must say I was slightly disappointed. The shifting was about just as good as it was before I changed the fluid but there was no noticeable improvement. If I had to do it again, I would probably go for the Amsoil synchromesh that so many users rave about.

 

You were able to get more than 2 quarts into the transmission of your car? I bought 2 L (about equal to 2 quarts) and I was only able to get about 1 1/2 bottles into my car.

 

For sure the capacity is one and a half liters.

 

Since he said dw-1, it's safe to assume he's talking about an automatic. Much larger fluid change.

 

Hi I'm chiming in a little late...if you already did it hope it goes well.

I did this a couple months ago used honda fluid. If you have any doubts just get the honda fluid it's cheap.

Couple things, first off, I would use the gravity method and would not use a pump. I used a pump and it ends up just being a big mess with slow response and lots of fluid tied up in the tubing. If I had to do it again I would definitely just do the gravity method.

Gravity doesn't have to be a two man job just get tubing with an OD the right size to fit in through the hole..I'd think 1/2 OD tubing should work fine.

As others have said make sure fill comes out before pulling drain.

I found that you don't actually have to take the whole black underliner off, just undo the fasteners in the immediate area of the drain plugs.

Keep an oil drain pan under everything the whole time, even when you're filling.

Assuming you have a decent jack that's not that much jacking. You can probably get to almost everything you need in the fill stage by just turning your wheels all the way to the left.

 

Regarding ramps and your incline concerns...

if you have or get ramps, just try to find somewhere that's a decent downhill grade. Driveway parking lot etc. situate the ramps partially downhill and then get an 8 or 10 foot 2x4 and a bubble level. Move ramps up or down hill (assuming the grade of the hill isn't constant) until you find a spot that's level. Leave the ramps there and then drive the car on them....check the level of the car (running board/door jam area is a good flat place) and adjust if necessary.