I really have no response for this. I'll let it sit and fester.

 

Steve peak torque happens at 4300 with the stock cam that is installed. At lower rpms running at MBT torque would be higher so when you are cruising at 2000 rpms torque might be 30 under knock retard at 36 at MBT a difference of 20 percent. Which is a difference you can feel.

 

At 2,000 RPM partial throttle, I can feel 10-20% increase in torque by simply pushing the pedal a tad further.

If you're talking at full throttle, you'll have to provide dyno graphs demonstrating this, otherwise you're just blowing smoke.

Of course at WOT, mpg isn't a consideration.

 

Took the car to an independent mechanic to get it checked out.

He spent a few moments going over the engine bay and it says it's normal. He took out his stethoscope and tracked down the knock to 2 possible areas.

1. The knock is NOT coming from the bottom end. It's resonating from the top in the vacinity of cyl 4.

2. Noise can heard the loudest by placing the scope on one of the spool valve bolts next to the intake manifold. (Cyl4)

3. With the car on a hoist and with the engine running, noise can be heard loudly again by placing the scope on the clutch cover bolt or the bolt next to it.

His opinion is that either the valve adjustments haven't been done at all or are way out of spec, or there could be an issue with with the flywheel or clutch (loose flywheel bolt or broken pressure plate spring) but in his opinion it was unlikely to be the latter.

He questioned if the dealers really did the valves or not at all.

He seemed pretty honest and knowledgeable, says most of the work his done on GE's were replacing sagging/torn engine mounts. Which is a common issue on these cars.

Lastly he assured me it was not bearing or wrist pin related as this knock sounds nothing like them.

 

Was that a typo? None of those possibilities sound normal to me.

What's the status of the car's factory warranty. I assume it's run out?

 

Nah, not a typo.

He passed the stethoscope to me as well for a listen to verify his suspicions

Dealer used car warranty runs out at the end of this month. I've got a case number with Honda Australia anyhow about this, will see how it pans out.

 

Bump / Last update

Had some spare time today, so I redid the valve clearances (Intake 0.15mm, Exhaust 0.28mm). There was evidence that someone had made previous attempts to have a go at it. The dab of dried gasket goo on the cam edges were black rather than the OEM hondabond white. Also every single exhaust valve was tight to the point where the 0.28mm feeler gauge could not even be inserted!! The intake valves were pretty okay though, almost didnt need any adjustment.

While I was at it, replaced all 4 spark plugs as well. Car was still running on OEM NGK's but since I bought a set might as well replace it.

End result: Rough idling and vibration has been reduced by 70-80%. The knocking noise is a lot less pronounced. If I would have to rate it on a 1-10 where the original clanking was a 10. It now would sit at a 2-3.

Overall good result, again if you want something done right.... do it yourself.

For any other future GE owners that may run into the knock.... Adjust your valves!

 

Thanks for the update.

Too bad about the dealer, but I'm not surprised. I think a reputable independent mechanic is the goto guy if you're not into doing it yourself. Their shop's reputation is at stake. More so than the dealer who has a bunch of employees being badgered about their time.

 

Glad you got it under control. If possible would you be able to post another video of noise now.