I'm debating switching to full synth at 35k - been running honda standard synth. blend but want to take the dive to full synth. Hoping it might quiet the engine a little bit and help with the vehicles longevity.

Any objections? I know oil can be a "hot" topic.

 

I'm ok with it, so say we all?

(I don't think you'll notice a difference, but it will warm the cockles of your heart knowing you treated it to the best.)

 

As a mechanic, I always use Mobil 1 Full Syn on all my vehicles. It is added protection, it doesn't hurt anything. It's more important to be timely about your oil changes. I also recommend OEM oil filters only. No K&N, HKS, Fram, STP...... Filters. Even if the oil filter company says it comes with a check valve, use OEM filters.

 

With 35000 miles on the engine I would just continue to use what you have been using. The time to change to full synthetic is after the first oil change. Changing now will remove any build up and possibly clog the oil pump or other oil passages. And there is no benefit to using synthetic oil IMO. BTW Honda recommends a synthetic blend oil and says its OK to use full synthetic if it has the API circle. The Petroleum Quality Institute of America

 

nonsense. SB you're on a roll.

If it had 135K I'd be a little concerned.

 

Am I Steve. Go ahead and use it and and lets see what happens, chances are nothing but why use full synthetic oil when changing it every 10,000 miles any ways. Synthetics were made for jet engines and even they don't change the oil just add until the oil consumption gets to a point of overhaul and your engine wont even see the harsh conditions that require synthetics.

 

As one who has always done his own oil changes for 40 years, I only understood the point of synthetic motor oil when Mobil 1 first came out. Clearly it was a superior product than dino oil. However, today, I think it is a complete waste of money. And for those of us who have owned any type of corolla engine, we are just burning hard earned money out the tailpipe as the ultra thin synthetic finds its way around the seals. That is probably the case with any engine as it ages and the seals become less than pliable. As our mechanic friend stated a few posts ago, it is all about the getting the dirt out and changing your oil at a healthy interval. Synthetic, imo, is just a feel good measure today as dino oils have significantly risen in quality over the past 20 years.

 

Exactly. Honda now recommends 0w20 COP semi synthetic oil. I have zero oil consumption issues and its good until about 9000 miles in my Honda. After that the mpg falls a little and its just my sign to change the oil. Oils have come a long way.

 

mmmm when mobile one first came out in the 70's they recommended 20K oil changes. Since no manufacturer went along with this they stopped doing that. The reason synthetics last longer is exactly the reason they use them in aircraft applications; the oil's long molecular chains are less prone to degradation in high heat. It's these long chains that provide the lubricating properties. Synthetics also protect better when cold (better flowing).

Why you wouldn't want this added measure of protection in your car is odd.

Where synthetics excel is reduction (elimination?) of sludge and tarnish. This is more a concern for the longish oil change intervals we see today.

They also improve mpg measurably in controlled laboratory testing (I think you have linked to these studies) over similar grade conventional oils. The difference in MPG in these studies more than covers the cost difference upgrading to synthetic.

Switching in a car at 35K is not a concern. If it was a 17 year old car with 150K I'd recommend staying with whatever it had in it, whether it was conventional or synthetic.

 

Yeah you'll be fine. I've switched to synthetic on almost every used vehicle I got and never blew a motor due to sludge. Some of them had as high as 60k when I got them. I did this on my wife's current used car too, got it at 35k.

Just using real world examples for you though the topic really should be a non-question. I'd be wary with a 120k mile car but only if it was poorly maintained.

 

I might disagree.
Don't expect to 'quiet' the enginee but do expect a litle gain in mpg.If there were any change in contaminant level you have a very strange engine.
Synthetics were developed for artic temperatures which aircraft get anytime they fly over 20,000 feet. And failure to lube is not a consuideration. It didn't take vehicles in the artic long to realize they have the same problem, only worst. even with synthetics because of the metal to metal contact they let vechicles idle all night rather than shuttingg down.

 

I can tell you that with temps of -18 degrees and wind chills of -50 my truck cranked over and ran for a few minutes. That is with 15w40 semi synthetic oil and its the fuel that jelled. EPA requires no idling and at 4 dollars a gallon and only getting 5 mpg in the winter compared to 6 in the summer the companies are not idling their tucks. Even my car started with no problems using 0w20 semi synthetic oil. Like in Ice road truckers they idle for comfort and so that the fuel does not jell and they are using 0w30 oils and Diesel number 1 with additives. Their truck is there life line and with no one around they have to keep the engines running but not sure if that happened last year because they went to Canada.

 

Not that it has anything to do with this thread or Fits, but don't commercial rigs have cold weather packages? Either plug-ins or fuel-fired to heat the engine and diesel without having to run the engine? Same for the cab and sleeper?

If my life depended on it (ice-truckers) I'd leave the engine running too.

 

Could be but my experience in the arctic conditions were simply hard starting - or running - was due to oil too thick and not gas unless the gas collected moisture and had fuel line freeze up. And temps ran -40 C or F.
Wind chill isn't a factor. Winfd chill just indicates how fast objects will cool to the air temperature.

 

I know but I did not understand Mahout. My point is there is no real advantage to full synthetics and I doubt we would see -60 below in a car. Racing is different and a real racer rebuilds the motor after a year or sooner. Group III is a refined mineral oil with a synthetic badge.

 

The fuel is just not what it was suppose be and ever one was effected. My truck cranked fine and 15w40 is good until 0 at least. Fuel filter was wax.

 

We do find on the dyno that full synthetic oils do have a horseower advantage and presumeably in mpg too. And it does last longer in service; any mix of conventional oil paraffin based or napthehic based - especially napthentic based - will 'wear out' faster than proper synthetics.
What is that Group II? a conventional oil with a synthetic 'badge' ? Does that mean refined used conventional oils that may contain used synthetic stock?

 

Is it an old truck or new truck and lots of miles. Lots of miles - opened clearances helps pass that thicker oil.

 

COP uses a group II which is a refined oil that does not meet group III standards. Group III is a mineral based oil with a synthetic badge. Then you have PAOs and esters. All of which would be in every oil but in limited amounts. Even the cheapest 5w20 oil has synthetic parts in it to meet GF5 requirements.

 

Yes I would of put it in after the first oil change which is what I'm going to do, but I will be using Amsoil Signature Series 0w20 full synthetic for my first oil change with the Amsoil oil filter to go with it.