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Power window weirdness

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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 11:37 PM
  #1  
Jon H's Avatar
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Power window weirdness

So start the car and hit the auto roll down and it goes down about 4 inches and stops. I push it to auto and it doesn't move at all. Just push it to the down position it goes 4 inches and stops. Everytime I hit the button it just repeats.

Tried the resetting the auto up and down. Seemed to fix the problem. Then lost the auto up and down after a couple of restarts of the vehicle. Window still works in the non auto position. Today it started doing the 4 inch thing again.

Anyone have suggestions?
 
Old Mar 19, 2014 | 07:58 AM
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When you say reset, there is a shop manual procedure for calibrating its sensitivity, is this what you followed?
 
Old Mar 19, 2014 | 08:07 AM
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Maybe the channel is dirty or something is jamming it?
 
Old Mar 19, 2014 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve244
When you say reset, there is a shop manual procedure for calibrating its sensitivity, is this what you followed?
Originally Posted by Goobers
Maybe the channel is dirty or something is jamming it?
This is what I followed.Reset Power Window Control Unit - Unofficial Honda FIT Forums

I'll check the channel when I get the time. I did throw in sound deadening a few weeks back on the inside and outside skin of the door.
 
Old Mar 20, 2014 | 08:35 AM
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I don't think the resistance sensitivity reset effects downward motion. It exists to keep hands and heads from getting pinched in the auto up mode, much like the doors of an elevator. Opening the window doesn't need this protection. It could be the motor has some protection to keep from burning out if opening the window requires too much force.

I think your sound insulation is binding window movement.
 
Old Mar 20, 2014 | 02:01 PM
  #6  
Jon H's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Steve244
I don't think the resistance sensitivity reset effects downward motion. It exists to keep hands and heads from getting pinched in the auto up mode, much like the doors of an elevator. Opening the window doesn't need this protection. It could be the motor has some protection to keep from burning out if opening the window requires too much force.

I think your sound insulation is binding window movement.
If a piece came off then I could see it doing that. When I get time I will open the door back up and make sure everything is still stuck to its proper place.
 
Old Mar 23, 2014 | 12:33 PM
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Something must be wrong with the switch or the channel are dirty.
 
Old Mar 23, 2014 | 12:58 PM
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Jon H's Avatar
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Originally Posted by dfvfit10
Something must be wrong with the switch or the channel are dirty.
I'm a little slow on the responses lately (getting ready to go take a road trip to NY) but have taken the door apart again and all sound deadening is where it should be. I am thinking faulty switch or maybe I pinched the wire too hard when assembling things?

I do know when I have my music on the switches rattle on the driver side. Took me a bit to figure out it was that.... dead silent and Im like yes! then I hear this slight buzz... Each side is getting I think 125 to each set of components. Can't remember exactly atm.
 
Old Mar 23, 2014 | 01:10 PM
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Did you move/unbolt the channel guide? I mean, maybe you bent it during your sound deadening install. It doesn't take much.
 
Old Mar 23, 2014 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Goobers
Did you move/unbolt the channel guide? I mean, maybe you bent it during your sound deadening install. It doesn't take much.
Possibly. I know I bumped the channel a couple of times. If it keeps up I'll probably try getting a new switch from the junkyard and see how that goes.... Never changed the tract for the window before... So going to try not to do that yet.
 
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