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Air conditioning problem

  #1  
Old 07-20-2015, 11:31 AM
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Air conditioning problem

My 2012 Fit has about 69,000 miles. We have been having a gradual problem for the last couple of years with the air conditioner, where it will get warmer when I stop and cold when I drive in the city.

This weekend we took it on a 2 hour highway trip (65 mph) and after about 45 minutes, the air conditioner was barely blowing cool air (fan speed was fine). When we stopped for a couple of hours and then drove the car home, it was COLD the entire time (and the temp outside was even hotter by this time).

The same thing happened when my husband took the car on a 4 hour trip in early June. He said once the a/c got warmer it would continue to blow that way until he turned the car off for a few minutes (stop to eat, gas, etc.). So it seems when we let the car sit for a few minutes, the a/c will be cold again.

Any idea what might be happening?
 

Last edited by dosbirn; 07-20-2015 at 12:09 PM.
  #2  
Old 07-20-2015, 01:08 PM
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I would check your frion levels.
 
  #3  
Old 07-20-2015, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by seanpatrickk
I would check your frion levels.
Really? I figured it might be something worse, since it's not consistent. If that's all it is, I'm happy.

I'll take it to the shop to have it checked. I asked here first because I didn't want them to take advantage of me and tell me I need a new engine. haha

Thanks, Sean.
 
  #4  
Old 07-20-2015, 10:02 PM
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I have been having the same problem recently. Going into my local mechanic Weds. to have them look at it. Had the same problem with a Toyota I had years ago, it was caused by low refrigerant.
 
  #5  
Old 07-21-2015, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Codger01
I have been having the same problem recently. Going into my local mechanic Weds. to have them look at it. Had the same problem with a Toyota I had years ago, it was caused by low refrigerant.
I took my car to the shop this morning, explained the problem and told the guy to check the freon - that it was probably low. His response made me think he wasn't sure that was the problem. I sure hope that's all they have to do.

I'll let you guys know what happens.
 
  #6  
Old 07-21-2015, 05:03 PM
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First thing they will do is check for leaks (the gas had to go somewhere...)Sometimes all that is needed is to tighten up a connection or two & recharge. Or some components may have to be replaced, like the condenser ($$ouch) or the compressor ($$$ouch) My condenser got replaced a couple of years ago after I had a run in with a chunk of cast off semi-truck tire. The condenser was $180.00 plus install (insurance paid for that).
 
  #7  
Old 07-21-2015, 07:31 PM
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Okay - system was recharged for $179.73. He (shop guy) said it holds around 1.3 (something) and mine was 1/2 (something) low. Sorry, some of the terminology confused me, plus I'm hearing-impaired.

When I first left the shop, at my first stop about 50 feet, the air seemed to drop. After that I really couldn't tell if it did. And it did appear to be VERY cold on the way home. I kept it on recirculate and moved it to fan position 1 (from 4) after 15-20 minutes. Pretty much left on 1 for the next 35 minutes.

He claims our compressor is falling apart on the inside. The 'valve' is messing up. He didn't say anything about what was leaking (I specifically asked if compressor was and he said no. It was probably a dumb question ). Plus he says the dryer will need to be replaced for them to warranty the a/c system, after replacing the compressor.

Parts & labor:

Compressor - $500.00
Labor - $215.60
Dryer - $50.00
Labor - $245.00
Evac & Recharge (he later "waived" this) - $18.00
Labor - $137.20

TOTAL COST - $1,165.80

He mentioned to my husband and me (separately) that these newer Honda's are known to have a/c problems. I told him about researching and most people say recharging it may fix it. That's when he said he confirmed that the compressor was going out (and gave me more technical details that went over my head ). I also told him that the power relay assembly and/or the a/c switch could also be bad (along with other small things - from what I read on this forum). That's when he said I could buy my own parts online cheaper, they would put them in and only charge me labor and he would waive the evac & recharge fees.

So...what do you guys think? Should I trust him?
 
  #8  
Old 07-22-2015, 07:27 PM
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My problem turned out to be low freon...should have about 9 oz in the system, actually had 4 oz. No leaks but he also replaced the schrader valves incase they were leaking slightly. Nice cold air now!!!
 
  #9  
Old 07-22-2015, 07:39 PM
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I had the same issue as well but it turned out to be low freon. I would probably get a second opinion before replacing the whole system....
 
  #10  
Old 07-23-2015, 11:37 AM
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Schrader valves...I'll have to remember that.

My freon was also low Codger01 and Samcl9 so I'm hoping that was the problem. The shop I took my car to is not one I fully trust. They are right by work and very convenient (plus we had another car in the shop at the same time so convenience was a priority).

I've driven the car only once during the heat of the day since they "recharged" it and 2 times on the way home from work. It does seem to be working fine.

My husband will be traveling out of town (5 hour drive one-way) in a couple of weeks. He's going to drive it on this trip to really test it. I guess if the compressor IS going out like the shop guy said, it won't hurt anything, right?
 
  #11  
Old 07-23-2015, 08:58 PM
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If you look under the hood at the AC lines, you will see two plastic caps. One has an H on it, the other an L. Under those caps are the schrader valves that let the tech test/ fill the AC. They are just like the valves in your tire valve stems. They are cheap, only around $3 - $4 ea. Since no other leaks were found on mine Ian (shop owner) replaced them to just be sure.
 
  #12  
Old 07-24-2015, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Codger01
If you look under the hood at the AC lines, you will see two plastic caps. One has an H on it, the other an L. Under those caps are the schrader valves that let the tech test/ fill the AC. They are just like the valves in your tire valve stems. They are cheap, only around $3 - $4 ea. Since no other leaks were found on mine Ian (shop owner) replaced them to just be sure.
Thanks, Codger01. Certainly won't hurt to replace those before the trip.
 
  #13  
Old 07-24-2015, 04:46 PM
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Ok - just watched some youtube videos on replacing schrader valves. Apparently you have to discharge the system first before you replace them, unless you buy expensive tools to keep the system from leaking while you change the valves. And I've already paid almost $200 to have that done.

But, I think I can add a couple drops of water in the top of the valves and if there are no bubbles, hopefully, this means the valves are not leaking.

I really can't believe this shop didn't mention checking these valves because it's common for them to be the reason for leaks (like you said Codger01).

Isn't an a/c system supposed to be air-tight? And if your refrigerant is low, doesn't that mean you have a leak somewhere? (Shop guy said it wasn't leaking from the compressor).
 
  #14  
Old 07-25-2015, 01:09 AM
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You do have to change the valves before you recharge the system. The dye they put in to detect leaks does not always find issues with the valves, as when the compressor is running the gas is at high pressure which closes the valves! If the valve is going to leak it will do it when the AC system is shut off, pressure drops and the valve seals can leak again.
No system is air tight. Every car I have owned has had to have the AC recharged at some point.
Since you have already had the system recharged, best to let the valves go for now. But if you start experiencing the warm up again, make sure the valves are changed with the next recharge/repair.
 
  #15  
Old 07-27-2015, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Codger01
You do have to change the valves before you recharge the system. The dye they put in to detect leaks does not always find issues with the valves, as when the compressor is running the gas is at high pressure which closes the valves! If the valve is going to leak it will do it when the AC system is shut off, pressure drops and the valve seals can leak again.
No system is air tight. Every car I have owned has had to have the AC recharged at some point.
Since you have already had the system recharged, best to let the valves go for now. But if you start experiencing the warm up again, make sure the valves are changed with the next recharge/repair.
He never said he changed them although the receipt does show $9.95 for "parts". Maybe those are the parts it was referring to.

It's definitely cooling better but it does seem like it might be getting a tiny bit warmer at red lights. But it's really hard to tell with these extremely high temps we're having and the huge windshield with the sun beating down on it.

My husband goes out of town next week. So that will be the "real" test.

Thanks, Codger01
 
  #16  
Old 07-27-2015, 10:18 PM
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The Fit is designed to be an "economical" car, so it will do things that help out with gas mileage- like dial back the AC compressor when idling. I'll be getting a test of my repair in the next couple of days- we expect high temps of around 103 by Thursday!!
 
  #17  
Old 07-28-2015, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Codger01
The Fit is designed to be an "economical" car, so it will do things that help out with gas mileage- like dial back the AC compressor when idling. I'll be getting a test of my repair in the next couple of days- we expect high temps of around 103 by Thursday!!
Really? I sure hope so! I didn't remember my 2008 Fit doing this but it was several years ago.

We've been in the 90's for several weeks now, with a few breaks every few days. With the high humidity, it makes our heat index over 100. Our temps don't usually get over 100. If it does, it rarely lasts more than a day or two. I'm SO ready for fall!

Stay cool!!
 
  #18  
Old 07-28-2015, 06:55 PM
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My '09 had low freon, but no leaks, which would make it ice up (go figure). Sounds counterintuitive, but it will. A check and recharge up to spec solved it, now I can get 33° at the vents! You can hang meat in there now.
 
  #19  
Old 07-29-2015, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by gkitf16
My '09 had low freon, but no leaks, which would make it ice up (go figure). Sounds counterintuitive, but it will. A check and recharge up to spec solved it, now I can get 33° at the vents! You can hang meat in there now.
Yeah - it's probably because my refrigerant got so low that I seemed to notice the a/c get warmer at stops. I guess I didn't have my 2008 long enough for the a/c to mess up.

Next week will be the real test - I'm eager to see how it does.
 
  #20  
Old 07-30-2015, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by dosbirn
My 2012 Fit has about 69,000 miles. We have been having a gradual problem for the last couple of years with the air conditioner, where it will get warmer when I stop and cold when I drive in the city.

This weekend we took it on a 2 hour highway trip (65 mph) and after about 45 minutes, the air conditioner was barely blowing cool air (fan speed was fine). When we stopped for a couple of hours and then drove the car home, it was COLD the entire time (and the temp outside was even hotter by this time).

The same thing happened when my husband took the car on a 4 hour trip in early June. He said once the a/c got warmer it would continue to blow that way until he turned the car off for a few minutes (stop to eat, gas, etc.). So it seems when we let the car sit for a few minutes, the a/c will be cold again.

Any idea what might be happening?
I have a 2012 Fit (bought used in 2014) with about 25K miles. I just got back from an extended trip and the car has the same symptoms as you described. That is, cold air from the start, then at around 45 minutes in, barely blowing any cool air. At one point, with the AC on max, stuck in traffic, we'd be boiling to the point of having to roll down the windows.

I knew the there are complaints of the Fit having an underpowered A/C and thought this was normal , but not think it's time to get the A/C checked.
 

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