As a newbie, I have searched for some reference to freeing up the rear hatch latch mechanism on my 2011 Base Fit. The latch sticks in the "open" position, but is not activating the release. When using the remote, it sounds like the lock is working, but the outside handle release is not in the correct position. For a while I was able to slide the key between the "open" position latch and body and push it into "closed" position, lock and unlock with remote, and it would work. Winter in upstate NY seems to have ended that. I can't figure out where to lubricate it, and my mechanic keeps ignoring my requests.
From a you-tube video, I saw the mechanism from inside the hatch, but his concern was more about the remote working, not the physical latch unlocking the lock. He indicated that this was a common problem.
I've seen many posts about the remote, but I clearly haven't worded my search properly. I'm going to climb in and see if I can lubricate anything from the access port, but if there are suggestions, please share.

 

You'll need to spray some WD-40 into both sides of the handle and on the steel pin it's attached to . Lift the door and shine a flashlight in the areas above and spray lubricant . Will need paper towels / cloth and wet towel / paper towels to clean up excess lubricant at time of lubing and after . When cleaning up excess with paper / cloth towels that are dry / wet do lightly so not to scratch paint . Work handle in and out . 2 > 3 times will likely be needed and periodically . Good Luck

 

I have this same problem with my 2008 base FIT. In my case the return spring is rusted out and now disintegrated. I have to physically pull and physically return the latch each time I need to use the rear door. Spraying lubricants is all I can do for the moment until I replace the handle which comes as a kit with the return spring included. It is a common complaint with this FIT, and I can imagine any rear hatchback door. All kinds of road salts get churned up on the backside and settle inside the rear handle. When washing the car spraying the underneath the handle is also necessary followed by a lube - often. I've endured this problem with my car for at least two years. Maybe heading into this winter, I will finally do something about it. Replacing the handle is all you have as an option. Or if you are handy, head to a junk yard and disassemble a rear latch to get at the return spring.

 

my wife's GE had this problem starting the 4th year of ownership. i sprayed WD40 liberally into the spring area from time to time and wiped off the excess.

my GE did not have this issue after 4yrs, the only difference was i washed my GE more than she did hers (like never). lol

 

I just bought a '13 with 56k and no rust. First chance I get I'm pulling the panel, remove the latch and lube, or replace with stainless. I've read too many horror stories.

 

horror stories? it's just the return spring.. and you can manually pull it back to latch it if it does ever happen to you. nothing to be horrified about.

 

Didn't mean to over inflate the problem. Just seems that it's a common issue. Especially in Salt land New England.

 

I used a heavy wax based lube a saturated the mechanism. Wd40 will not last lomg imo. The stuff iused is thick a almost lime a long term amber colored wax/grease that wont dry up and wash away. Cant recall the name right now. I will find out.

 

yah wd40 may not last too long but it will coat it very well in all areas and wash off the gunk... and people can find the stuff everywhere. gas stations, convenience stores, super markets, etc. thus the post.

i also used white lithium grease spray and that works well and sticks better.. but then one would have to go to hardware store to find it...and ask which white lithium grease, or heavy wax based lube you used, etc. etc. u get the drift

if someone is asking about this, they're not experts on the subject.

 

same issue with my 2011. you just need to remember to press the handle back into the closed position after opening the back hatch.

ive had it stick on me when i havent properly closed the latch before closing the hatch door, and ive had to climb inside and manually release it. there is a small plastic piece that pops out form the inside so you can release the hatch door. (mine was missing when i bought mine used)

has anyone replaced one of these? not sure if it just requires a new spring or the whole latch part itself.

i might just live with it as ive been doing for the last year.

 

did some more research. looks like the piece can be had for about $40 on Amazon. some helpful reviews on the page as well.

mine was apparently well WD40'd when i purchased it, that obviously didnt last long.

options seem to be live with it, lubing well and repeating when it dries up, or replacement. dont know how long a replacement would last until that one rusts too though. nor how much of a pain in the ass it is to replace.

here we go, this person replace it:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...le-repair.html

actually sounds like a pain since you have to remove the outer panel to remove the latch. not gonna bother with that.

derek, i assume you lubed it from the outside? just opening the latch and spraying up in the space where it opens? correct me if im wrong.

 

I still can't fix mine, i have sprayed it and it seems to have done nothing.

 

Yes, I sprayed it from the outside heavily with WD40 to free it up and worked it (shut and open many times) and resprayed heavily. After it freed up and dried, I sprayed the heck of it with Fluid Film (Lowes has it and so does Amazon) and was sure to use the plastic wand to reach up and behind the latch. I drenched it. I may have caught it before it was completely rusted out. YMMV. Anyways it works fine now. The waxy Fluid Film does not evaporate and wash off like WD40. Its worth a try imo.

 

Sounds like Boeshield T9. Other companies make similar stuff. I think even WD40 does.

 

Hi, thanks for this site and all your help, makes a difference. I too have had a sticky handle, but after reading all your posts tried to get a toothbrush with grease on it behind the handle to grease the spring and the pin and it worked. Unlike wd40 it should last a while and only takes a minute.

 

It's not a great design, I had to replace mine after it stopped latching. It's a bit of pain, especially because the trim around the plate lights is really on there tight, and can break if pulled too hard. There's just no good way to remove it easily. Good luck!

 

My hatch won't open and only have a small hole on the inside of the rear lift gate panel to peer inside.. I can see that some plastic parts are disconnected so the mechanism is probably broken. I'd like to know if there's some way to manually open the hatch so I can remove the rear panel and see what's going on. There's a metal lever I can reach with my finger. I tried pushing to the left and to the right, but it still wouldn't open. Any suggestions, photos or diagrams that would help me would be great.

 

Having just bought my Fit I don't have this problem.
I did have a really bad grease stain in the area you are saying to lubricate that took me over half an hour to clean.

 

Does this help? Manual rather confusing.

 

I wish my tailgate had that feature, but mine is an older model which has such a tiny access hole, I can barely stick my finger inside. According to other posts, I should be able to push the silver lever, just inside, to the right and open the hatch. Unfortunately, that hasn't worked, so I'm hoping someone knows what I can push, pull, or press with a screwdriver to get the latch to release.

Access hole at the bottom of the hatch door, 2008 Honda Fit