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-   -   Another wheel stud question. . . (https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-generation-ge-08-13/96454-another-wheel-stud-question.html)

Oricha1984 08-12-2017 03:16 AM

Another wheel stud question. . .
 
Hello fellow fit owners.

So I have heard most people recommending to take car to shop to have new stud pressed in.
Has anyone used the griding method and cut part of the head of the stud off to install without have to take the whole thing apart? If you did can you share pictures?

Do most people pay the $400 to have a wheel stud replace...
Thank you all.

Oricha1984 08-12-2017 11:41 PM

Thank you all for the comments, pictures, and support/guidance (links) through my project.

Black3sr 08-13-2017 04:43 AM

You are welcome. This has been discussed here in the past. Try a search.I have never had the problem so do not have any links.

Oricha1984 08-13-2017 07:14 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by Black3sr (Post 1378133)
You are welcome. This has been discussed here in the past. Try a search.I have never had the problem so do not have any links.

Copy that.
I found this link to be very usefull.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...ings-help.html

I'm just having trouble figuring out if I got the right bearing (cause of the magnetic side and the ABS sensor). Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks

Black3sr 08-14-2017 10:32 AM

Have you done similar jobs before? If not maybe take it to dealer. It could end up being costly doing it yourself.

Rob H 08-14-2017 10:51 AM


Originally Posted by Oricha1984 (Post 1378026)
Hello fellow fit owners.

So I have heard most people recommending to take car to shop to have new stud pressed in.
Has anyone used the griding method and cut part of the head of the stud off to install without have to take the whole thing apart? If you did can you share pictures?

Do most people pay the $400 to have a wheel stud replace...
Thank you all.


I'm guessing most dealerships won't remove the hub to press out the broken stud and the new one in? They'll just replace the hub which already has the studs in. If they replace on broken stud, they'll hammer it out and either use an air hammer to pound in the new one or use a nut and a couple washes to draw the new one in. It's really not too hard. Usually there's some spot on the hub which will allow for the stud to be installed without having to grind the head down. I've never had to replace a broken stud on a Fit but have on other cars and it's always been the same. I used to break studs on my WRX from racing until I replaced all with ARP. Anyway here's a photo replacing a WRX stud. I always used the nut with a couple greased washers method to draw the new stud in.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...094465ef53.jpg

Oricha1984 08-14-2017 11:41 AM


Originally Posted by Black3sr (Post 1378254)
Have you done similar jobs before? If not maybe take it to dealer. It could end up being costly doing it yourself.

Paying large amounts of money to have a "professional" do the job does not equal that the job is done correctly.
Most my car troubles have been because "professional" did something wrong.
I rather take my chances. Like everything in life, there is always a first time. It is not about saving money but about learning and being self reliable.

I've found the service manual from other threads, thanks for sharing. I have a pretty good understanding of the job, it does not seem too complicated. Could something go wrong, yes, but in life anything can go wrong at any time.

I plan to remove the knuckle, then take it to Honda Dealership (or a specialized shop) and have a new bearing & hub pressed in. Then I will reinstall the knuckle and take the car to get an alignment.

From my research, you can't bang out & install a new stud on the fit. Not that much space back there as in other cars. If there is a way to safely do it, I have not come across it.

If anyone can help me figure out the right bearing to buy
, haven't be able to figure that one out yet.
Thank you all.

Rob H 08-14-2017 12:52 PM


Originally Posted by Oricha1984 (Post 1378259)
Paying large amounts of money to have a "professional" do the job does not equal that the job is done correctly.
Most my car troubles have been because "professional" did something wrong.
I rather take my chances. Like everything in life, there is always a first time. It is not about saving money but about learning and being self reliable.

I've found the service manual from other threads, thanks for sharing. I have a pretty good understanding of the job, it does not seem too complicated. Could something go wrong, yes, but in life anything can go wrong at any time.

I plan to remove the knuckle, then take it to Honda Dealership (or a specialized shop) and have a new bearing & hub pressed in. Then I will reinstall the knuckle and take the car to get an alignment.

From my research, you can't bang out & install a new stud on the fit. Not that much space back there as in other cars. If there is a way to safely do it, I have not come across it.

If anyone can help me figure out the right bearing to buy
, haven't be able to figure that one out yet.
Thank you all.

So you've never done this type of work? From your research on Youtube and forums you've determined the stud can't be replaced from the backside with the hub still on the car without even taking it apart and looking yourself? It takes maybe 30-45 minutes to remove the caliper and rotor to take a look for your own reference or knowledge. You want to pay the dealer or someone else press the parts together instead of buying a cheap under $200 press from Harbor Freight? Based on this, I don't believe you're capable of doing this repair. Do it yourself auto repair takes not being afraid to remove stuff that maybe didn't need to be removed to learn how to do it easier the next time. It also takes commitment to buying tools and equipment to do the job. Based on this, I don't believe you're capable of doing the job? You might prove me wrong, but I doubt it.

BTW: This knowledge and equipment is what you are paying for when you go to the dealer.

Oricha1984 08-14-2017 01:10 PM


Originally Posted by Rob H (Post 1378262)
So you've never done this type of work? From your research on Youtube and forums you've determined the stud can't be replaced from the backside with the hub still on the car without even taking it apart and looking yourself? It takes maybe 30-45 minutes to remove the caliper and rotor to take a look for your own reference or knowledge. You want to pay the dealer or someone else press the parts together instead of buying a cheap under $200 press from Harbor Freight? Based on this, I don't believe you're capable of doing this repair. Do it yourself auto repair takes not being afraid to remove stuff that maybe didn't need to be removed to learn how to do it easier the next time. It also takes commitment to buying tools and equipment to do the job. Based on this, I don't believe you're capable of doing the job? You might prove me wrong, but I doubt it.

BTW: This knowledge and equipment is what you are paying for when you go to the dealer.

I appreciate your vote confidence...
Most of my research is from reading the service manual, videos and forum post are secondary.

1. Wheel, caliper, and rotor are off. I have been looking at it and searching online for almost a week now.
2. I was going to try the bang out stud method and grinding to try to make it fit, but as I said before no space back there.
3. I could buy a press from harbor freight, but from my research, there are specific fittings that are need it to distribute the pressure correctly. I'm not sure the press I buy would have the right fittings for the job.

I'm not trying to prove anyone wrong. I apologize if I offended anyone in the forum. I'm just trying to learn.
Thank you all.

Rob H 08-14-2017 01:19 PM


Originally Posted by Oricha1984 (Post 1378263)
I appreciate your vote confidence...
Most of my research is from reading the service manual, videos and forum post are secondary.

.

The service manual shows the "proper" way, or the way before specialized tools are invented or created to do the job quicker and easier. It isn't always the best example or reference for doing the job. Take for example a ball joint press. My guess is a service manual will show to remove a control arm and take it to a hydraulic press and press the old one out and a new one in or just replace the control arm with the new balljoint. The ball joint press, sort of a modified "C" clamp was designed so the tech didn't have to remove the control arm to press out the old and press in the new.

If you really want to know how to replace the broken stud go to a discount tire store and ask them. Techs break studs all the time and replace them sometimes without the owners knowledge. They don't remove parts and use hydraulic presses.

Oricha1984 08-14-2017 02:20 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by Rob H (Post 1378265)
The service manual shows the "proper" way, or the way before specialized tools are invented or created to do the job quicker and easier. It isn't always the best example or reference for doing the job. Take for example a ball joint press. My guess is a service manual will show to remove a control arm and take it to a hydraulic press and press the old one out and a new one in or just replace the control arm with the new balljoint. The ball joint press, sort of a modified "C" clamp was designed so the tech didn't have to remove the control arm to press out the old and press in the new.

If you really want to know how to replace the broken stud go to a discount tire store and ask them. Techs break studs all the time and replace them sometimes without the owners knowledge. They don't remove parts and use hydraulic presses.

Thank you for providing me good info. I didn't know about other approaches to do the job. I only new about taking the knuckle off and about banging it out.

I will go by the Honda Dealership tomorrow to see what they say. But it will probably be expensive because of replacing with Honda parts.
I'll check two other smaller shops in my area, but not too thrilled about that. It was a small shop that caused the problem to begin with.

Thank you all.

Oricha1984 08-16-2017 04:16 AM

I've continued to search and get quotes.
An easy way to know if you got the right aftermarket bearing is to put a paper clip on one side to check for the magnet.

I still can't figure out how is it possible to press out the hub without damaging the splash guard... If anyone can explain it.
Thank you all.

Black3sr 08-16-2017 06:26 AM

do you not take the guard off first? Looks like 3 screws holding it on.https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...db43c63af0.jpg

Oricha1984 08-16-2017 05:10 PM

My final conclusion
 
After much research (service manual, forums, youtube, google), I've come to the conclusion that the easiest way (taking into account money spent in tools, time, labor) to fix a broken stud (on a Honda FIT) is to take it to a shop;
however, I was not only going after fixing it, but I wanted to understand how is it done.

Final recommendations:
Honda Tech: "pull the hub out (it will come out with the inner race), replace studs, push it back in. You do not need to replace wheel bearing).
Labor: $139 + tax.
Parts: $15 (4 new studs & log nuts from Oreilley)

Local Mechanic: This guy was interesting . . . When I asked about aproaches on how to fix it & how to prevent potential problems; here was his answer: "I will not tell you how to do it, you went to medical school or nursing school for a reason; I went to mechanic school to learn this stuff, look around, I have over 4k on tools just on this wall alone; if you want it fixed, bring it, you can see how is done". But wait, the Honda Fit has less space back there than other cars, look at this picture, are you sure you can do it. "Like I said, bring it to me and I'll get a new stud in there, end of story..."
Labor: 41.25 +tax

Parts: $15 (4 new studs & log nuts from Oreilley)

Hope this information helps others as I was not able to get a clear answer when reading other threads.


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