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-   -   Brake Upgrade (https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-generation-ge-08-13/96777-brake-upgrade.html)

phenoyz 10-05-2017 06:55 PM

Brake Upgrade
 
Can somebody suggest a good upgrade brake kit for a 2011 Fit
I want to upgrade my OEM front Brakes.

are these good? Do you also need to buy new brake line for these?

Wilwood High Performance Disc Brakes - 2011 Honda Fit Sport - Front Brake Kit No.: 140-12996-DR

thanks

56chevydan 10-06-2017 01:50 PM

Brake Upgrade
 
That's a nice kit but only uses slightly larger than stock rotors (10" vs 10.3"). Read this post for a 11" front big brake upgrade:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...brake-kit.html

Noxm09 10-11-2017 11:54 PM


Originally Posted by phenoyz (Post 1382522)
Can somebody suggest a good upgrade brake kit for a 2011 Fit
I want to upgrade my OEM front Brakes.

are these good? Do you also need to buy new brake line for these?

Wilwood High Performance Disc Brakes - 2011 Honda Fit Sport - Front Brake Kit No.: 140-12996-DR

thanks

That kit is more than good enough for the fit. I use my vehicle for the track with does brakes and combining them with the BP-20 Pads braking performance is amazing.

phenoyz 10-12-2017 12:17 AM


Originally Posted by Noxm09 (Post 1382969)
That kit is more than good enough for the fit. I use my vehicle for the track with does brakes and combining them with the BP-20 Pads braking performance is amazing.

@Noxm09 good to know. Why did you use different pads this is already a complete brake kit. thanks.

Also my mechanic is charging me $250 to replace front brakes, passenger side studs then change brake fluid is that a fair price?

Hootie 10-12-2017 12:21 AM

Just chunk in a good set of front pads, decent rotors and go. Simple friction material changes make a noticeable difference with cars our size.

Have you considered or tried out say any Hawk HPS or HP+ pads or even Carbotech 1521 or AX6 pads or any other similar classed pads?

Those Wilwoods are ok for street BUT its be a common occurrence for those using them to have to rebuild them and replace the existing seals with optional ones that withstand a higher heat range. I honestly cannot remember for the life of me what the material or the name of the seals are at this time.

In addition to that, you will have a softer brake pedal after installing these due to additional fluid volume to actually push those pistons out during braking compared to that of the stock caliper. Even DC2R front calipers will have a slightly softer pedal feel than stock again due to the additional fluid volume to push the piston in the brake caliper.

Noxm09 10-12-2017 12:23 AM


Originally Posted by phenoyz (Post 1382973)
@Noxm09 good to know. Why did you use different pads this is already a complete brake kit. thanks.

Also my mechanic is charging me $250 to replace front brakes, passenger side studs then change brake fluid is that a fair price?

I am not to sure about the price try to get a few quotes as I do the work my self with a help of a friend. I switched out the pads to BP-20s because of the torque curve on them is more consistent with what I need at the race track. I have run them hard for 5 sessions and never ran into any issues with brake fade. As for the ruber brake lines I do you recommend you upgrade them if your planning to do any autox or racing.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psfmysfnev.jpg

phenoyz 10-12-2017 12:33 AM


Originally Posted by Noxm09 (Post 1382975)
As for the ruber brake lines I do you recommend you upgrade them if your planning to do any autox or racing.

I also bought the wilwood brake lines and going to put the ATE typ 200 (DOT 4)
brake fluid. Planning to track the car occasionally

Noxm09 10-12-2017 12:40 AM


Originally Posted by phenoyz (Post 1382976)
I also bought the wilwood brake lines and going to put the ATE typ 200 (DOT 4)
brake fluid. Planning to track the car occasionally

RBF600 has worked great for me never tried ATE fluid were are you planning to track ?

phenoyz 10-12-2017 12:44 AM


Originally Posted by Noxm09 (Post 1382979)
RBF600 has worked great for me never tried ATE fluid were are you planning to track ?

laguna seca

dwtaylorpdx 10-12-2017 12:45 AM

teh RBF and ATE are pretty much equal.. Used both on many track cars never seen a difference, but I change the lfuid every 2 or 3 race weekends and bleed between sessions..

Noxm09 10-12-2017 12:46 AM


Originally Posted by phenoyz (Post 1382980)
laguna seca

expensive... lol you should come down to buttonwillow raceway this weekend ill be out there.

Noxm09 10-12-2017 12:47 AM


Originally Posted by dwtaylorpdx (Post 1382981)
teh RBF and ATE are pretty much equal.. Used both on many track cars never seen a difference, but I change the lfuid every 2 or 3 race weekends and bleed between sessions..

what are you running that your cooking the brake fluid that much ? I normally run 6 events before I do brake fluid and its still in great shape.

phenoyz 10-12-2017 12:51 AM


Originally Posted by Noxm09 (Post 1382982)
expensive... lol you should come down to buttonwillow raceway this weekend ill be out there.

willow is too far but i'd love to go there

dwtaylorpdx 10-12-2017 12:58 AM


Originally Posted by Noxm09 (Post 1382983)
what are you running that your cooking the brake fluid that much ? I normally run 6 events before I do brake fluid and its still in great shape.

:) I do pit and crew duties on everything from a formula V to a Formula 5000.

I used to send the fluid out for a chemical analysis, water content, chemical comp etc, Its also about the best prepared car finishes more races.

Its part of my daily routine when I take care of a car at the track, I've put cars in the book at Seattle, Portland, Thunderhill, Firebird.. Its all about the prep.. :D and reading the rule book ;)

Noxm09 10-12-2017 01:08 AM


Originally Posted by dwtaylorpdx (Post 1382987)
:) I do pit and crew duties on everything from a formula V to a Formula 5000.

I used to send the fluid out for a chemical analysis, water content, chemical comp etc, Its also about the best prepared car finishes more races.

Its part of my daily routine when I take care of a car at the track, I've put cars in the book at Seattle, Portland, Thunderhill, Firebird.. Its all about the prep.. :D and reading the rule book ;)

Thats great to know ! and I feel you on that but when your on a budget you just try to squeeze as much as you can lol =D I use to do my fluids every 2 events but boy did that start racking up some money. Have you ever used blackstone ? or who do you guys use to sample your fluids ?

Rob H 10-12-2017 10:17 AM


Originally Posted by Hootie (Post 1382974)
Just chunk in a good set of front pads, decent rotors and go. Simple friction material changes make a noticeable difference with cars our size.

Have you considered or tried out say any Hawk HPS or HP+ pads or even Carbotech 1521 or AX6 pads or any other similar classed pads?


I've used the Hawk HPS, HP+ and currently using the Carbotech AX6 on my WRX.

Personally, I didn't think the HPS stopped the car any better than the OEM pads, they just didn't fade as bad. The HP+ had phenomenal initial bite but had horrendous squeal and dust. Dust I can live with, but I hate squeal. Yes, they were bedded in properly.

The Carbotech AX6 have as much initial bite or maybe more than the HP+. Lot's of dust, maybe more than the HP+, but they don't squeal. I can live with that.

IMO; I wouldn't use the HP+ or AX6 for anything other than autocross with limited street use. Once on the way back from an autocross when using the HP+ I got stuck in Chicago stop and go traffic. I could tell the HP+ pad really didn't like it. Was actually concerned about starting them on fire.

Hootie 10-12-2017 01:26 PM


Originally Posted by Rob H (Post 1383007)
I've used the Hawk HPS, HP+ and currently using the Carbotech AX6 on my WRX.

Personally, I didn't think the HPS stopped the car any better than the OEM pads, they just didn't fade as bad. The HP+ had phenomenal initial bite but had horrendous squeal and dust. Dust I can live with, but I hate squeal. Yes, they were bedded in properly.

The Carbotech AX6 have as much initial bite or maybe more than the HP+. Lot's of dust, maybe more than the HP+, but they don't squeal. I can live with that.

IMO; I wouldn't use the HP+ or AX6 for anything other than autocross with limited street use. Once on the way back from an autocross when using the HP+ I got stuck in Chicago stop and go traffic. I could tell the HP+ pad really didn't like it. Was actually concerned about starting them on fire.

I used to daily AX6 pads and 913 shoes on the GD3... a bit on the aggressive side for brake friction materials but definitely had a good initial bite with good pedal modulation so driving in stop/go traffic wasn't too bad. Slotted rotors may or may not have aided this but were present during that time. The dust flat out sucked though... gray wheels looked bronze or silver wheels looked gunmetal in a matter of days. :rotfl:

After converting to rear disc, I stepped up from OEM Honda EP3 SI rear pads to Hawk HP+ and noticed similar squeals after proper bed in BUT the inital bite wasn't quite there with the 913 shoes I had previously but offered a lot more pedal modulation. Not sure what pad compounds the 913 compares to (maybe in between AX6 to XP10 I'm guessing?)... AX6s were still being used up front by the way.

I later switched to XP8 front, AX6 rear and rear bite is noticeably prominent when cold... thought after XP8s get some heat in them finally then that combo feels somewhat good. I'm going to run AX6 front and rear for AX and use the XP8s for MSR Houston next year. The XP8s would be better suited there anyway.

F..it 10-17-2017 03:37 PM

If you are on a budget, consider ITR calipers, '04 TSX pads, and cooper rotors. NIce upgrade and wallet friendly.

AC

MarkJH 06-30-2018 04:53 PM


Originally Posted by F..it (Post 1383500)
If you are on a budget, consider ITR calipers, '04 TSX pads, and cooper rotors. NIce upgrade and wallet friendly.

AC

Can you provide a little more information on this setup? I Google'd ITR calipers and see where you are going with this - I love this ingenuity with different parts. Are there any modifications to existing parts for fitment? Do you know which year cooper rotors work? Is there a brand of '04 TSX pads you like - OEM? I am ovbiously not that familiar with the specs on the Fit brakes or these other cars/models. Are you leaving the back stock? Cheers for any input or sources.

MarkJH 06-30-2018 04:57 PM


Originally Posted by F..it (Post 1383500)
If you are on a budget, consider ITR calipers, '04 TSX pads, and cooper rotors. NIce upgrade and wallet friendly.

AC

Can you provide a little more information on this setup? I Google'd ITR calipers and see where you are going with this - I love this ingenuity with different parts. Are there any modifications to existing parts for fitment? Do you know which year cooper rotors work? Is there a brand of '04 TSX pads you like - OEM? I am ovbiously not that familiar with the specs on the Fit brakes or these other cars/models. Are you leaving the back stock? Cheers for any input or sources.

EDIT: I just found this video which expalins a great deal of the specs and why these specific parts for a Brake conversion on a Honda Civic (generation?):Integra Type R 4-Lug Brake Conversion On A Civic



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