Brake Upgrade
Can somebody suggest a good upgrade brake kit for a 2011 Fit
I want to upgrade my OEM front Brakes. are these good? Do you also need to buy new brake line for these? Wilwood High Performance Disc Brakes - 2011 Honda Fit Sport - Front Brake Kit No.: 140-12996-DR thanks |
Brake Upgrade
That's a nice kit but only uses slightly larger than stock rotors (10" vs 10.3"). Read this post for a 11" front big brake upgrade:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...brake-kit.html |
Originally Posted by phenoyz
(Post 1382522)
Can somebody suggest a good upgrade brake kit for a 2011 Fit
I want to upgrade my OEM front Brakes. are these good? Do you also need to buy new brake line for these? Wilwood High Performance Disc Brakes - 2011 Honda Fit Sport - Front Brake Kit No.: 140-12996-DR thanks |
Originally Posted by Noxm09
(Post 1382969)
That kit is more than good enough for the fit. I use my vehicle for the track with does brakes and combining them with the BP-20 Pads braking performance is amazing.
Also my mechanic is charging me $250 to replace front brakes, passenger side studs then change brake fluid is that a fair price? |
Just chunk in a good set of front pads, decent rotors and go. Simple friction material changes make a noticeable difference with cars our size.
Have you considered or tried out say any Hawk HPS or HP+ pads or even Carbotech 1521 or AX6 pads or any other similar classed pads? Those Wilwoods are ok for street BUT its be a common occurrence for those using them to have to rebuild them and replace the existing seals with optional ones that withstand a higher heat range. I honestly cannot remember for the life of me what the material or the name of the seals are at this time. In addition to that, you will have a softer brake pedal after installing these due to additional fluid volume to actually push those pistons out during braking compared to that of the stock caliper. Even DC2R front calipers will have a slightly softer pedal feel than stock again due to the additional fluid volume to push the piston in the brake caliper. |
Originally Posted by phenoyz
(Post 1382973)
@Noxm09 good to know. Why did you use different pads this is already a complete brake kit. thanks.
Also my mechanic is charging me $250 to replace front brakes, passenger side studs then change brake fluid is that a fair price? http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psfmysfnev.jpg |
Originally Posted by Noxm09
(Post 1382975)
As for the ruber brake lines I do you recommend you upgrade them if your planning to do any autox or racing.
brake fluid. Planning to track the car occasionally |
Originally Posted by phenoyz
(Post 1382976)
I also bought the wilwood brake lines and going to put the ATE typ 200 (DOT 4)
brake fluid. Planning to track the car occasionally |
Originally Posted by Noxm09
(Post 1382979)
RBF600 has worked great for me never tried ATE fluid were are you planning to track ?
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teh RBF and ATE are pretty much equal.. Used both on many track cars never seen a difference, but I change the lfuid every 2 or 3 race weekends and bleed between sessions..
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Originally Posted by phenoyz
(Post 1382980)
laguna seca
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Originally Posted by dwtaylorpdx
(Post 1382981)
teh RBF and ATE are pretty much equal.. Used both on many track cars never seen a difference, but I change the lfuid every 2 or 3 race weekends and bleed between sessions..
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Originally Posted by Noxm09
(Post 1382982)
expensive... lol you should come down to buttonwillow raceway this weekend ill be out there.
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Originally Posted by Noxm09
(Post 1382983)
what are you running that your cooking the brake fluid that much ? I normally run 6 events before I do brake fluid and its still in great shape.
I used to send the fluid out for a chemical analysis, water content, chemical comp etc, Its also about the best prepared car finishes more races. Its part of my daily routine when I take care of a car at the track, I've put cars in the book at Seattle, Portland, Thunderhill, Firebird.. Its all about the prep.. :D and reading the rule book ;) |
Originally Posted by dwtaylorpdx
(Post 1382987)
:) I do pit and crew duties on everything from a formula V to a Formula 5000.
I used to send the fluid out for a chemical analysis, water content, chemical comp etc, Its also about the best prepared car finishes more races. Its part of my daily routine when I take care of a car at the track, I've put cars in the book at Seattle, Portland, Thunderhill, Firebird.. Its all about the prep.. :D and reading the rule book ;) |
Originally Posted by Hootie
(Post 1382974)
Just chunk in a good set of front pads, decent rotors and go. Simple friction material changes make a noticeable difference with cars our size.
Have you considered or tried out say any Hawk HPS or HP+ pads or even Carbotech 1521 or AX6 pads or any other similar classed pads? I've used the Hawk HPS, HP+ and currently using the Carbotech AX6 on my WRX. Personally, I didn't think the HPS stopped the car any better than the OEM pads, they just didn't fade as bad. The HP+ had phenomenal initial bite but had horrendous squeal and dust. Dust I can live with, but I hate squeal. Yes, they were bedded in properly. The Carbotech AX6 have as much initial bite or maybe more than the HP+. Lot's of dust, maybe more than the HP+, but they don't squeal. I can live with that. IMO; I wouldn't use the HP+ or AX6 for anything other than autocross with limited street use. Once on the way back from an autocross when using the HP+ I got stuck in Chicago stop and go traffic. I could tell the HP+ pad really didn't like it. Was actually concerned about starting them on fire. |
Originally Posted by Rob H
(Post 1383007)
I've used the Hawk HPS, HP+ and currently using the Carbotech AX6 on my WRX.
Personally, I didn't think the HPS stopped the car any better than the OEM pads, they just didn't fade as bad. The HP+ had phenomenal initial bite but had horrendous squeal and dust. Dust I can live with, but I hate squeal. Yes, they were bedded in properly. The Carbotech AX6 have as much initial bite or maybe more than the HP+. Lot's of dust, maybe more than the HP+, but they don't squeal. I can live with that. IMO; I wouldn't use the HP+ or AX6 for anything other than autocross with limited street use. Once on the way back from an autocross when using the HP+ I got stuck in Chicago stop and go traffic. I could tell the HP+ pad really didn't like it. Was actually concerned about starting them on fire. After converting to rear disc, I stepped up from OEM Honda EP3 SI rear pads to Hawk HP+ and noticed similar squeals after proper bed in BUT the inital bite wasn't quite there with the 913 shoes I had previously but offered a lot more pedal modulation. Not sure what pad compounds the 913 compares to (maybe in between AX6 to XP10 I'm guessing?)... AX6s were still being used up front by the way. I later switched to XP8 front, AX6 rear and rear bite is noticeably prominent when cold... thought after XP8s get some heat in them finally then that combo feels somewhat good. I'm going to run AX6 front and rear for AX and use the XP8s for MSR Houston next year. The XP8s would be better suited there anyway. |
If you are on a budget, consider ITR calipers, '04 TSX pads, and cooper rotors. NIce upgrade and wallet friendly.
AC |
Originally Posted by F..it
(Post 1383500)
If you are on a budget, consider ITR calipers, '04 TSX pads, and cooper rotors. NIce upgrade and wallet friendly.
AC |
Originally Posted by F..it
(Post 1383500)
If you are on a budget, consider ITR calipers, '04 TSX pads, and cooper rotors. NIce upgrade and wallet friendly.
AC EDIT: I just found this video which expalins a great deal of the specs and why these specific parts for a Brake conversion on a Honda Civic (generation?):Integra Type R 4-Lug Brake Conversion On A Civic |
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