Brake Upgrade - Unofficial Honda FIT Forums


2nd Generation (GE 08-13) 2nd Generation specific talk and questions here.

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Old 10-05-2017, 06:55 PM
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Brake Upgrade

Can somebody suggest a good upgrade brake kit for a 2011 Fit
I want to upgrade my OEM front Brakes.

are these good? Do you also need to buy new brake line for these?

Wilwood High Performance Disc Brakes - 2011 Honda Fit Sport - Front Brake Kit No.: 140-12996-DR

thanks
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Old 10-06-2017, 01:50 PM
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Brake Upgrade

That's a nice kit but only uses slightly larger than stock rotors (10" vs 10.3"). Read this post for a 11" front big brake upgrade:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...brake-kit.html
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Old 10-11-2017, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by phenoyz View Post
Can somebody suggest a good upgrade brake kit for a 2011 Fit
I want to upgrade my OEM front Brakes.

are these good? Do you also need to buy new brake line for these?

Wilwood High Performance Disc Brakes - 2011 Honda Fit Sport - Front Brake Kit No.: 140-12996-DR

thanks
That kit is more than good enough for the fit. I use my vehicle for the track with does brakes and combining them with the BP-20 Pads braking performance is amazing.
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Noxm09 View Post
That kit is more than good enough for the fit. I use my vehicle for the track with does brakes and combining them with the BP-20 Pads braking performance is amazing.
@Noxm09 good to know. Why did you use different pads this is already a complete brake kit. thanks.

Also my mechanic is charging me $250 to replace front brakes, passenger side studs then change brake fluid is that a fair price?

Last edited by phenoyz; 10-12-2017 at 12:20 AM.
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:21 AM
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Just chunk in a good set of front pads, decent rotors and go. Simple friction material changes make a noticeable difference with cars our size.

Have you considered or tried out say any Hawk HPS or HP+ pads or even Carbotech 1521 or AX6 pads or any other similar classed pads?

Those Wilwoods are ok for street BUT its be a common occurrence for those using them to have to rebuild them and replace the existing seals with optional ones that withstand a higher heat range. I honestly cannot remember for the life of me what the material or the name of the seals are at this time.

In addition to that, you will have a softer brake pedal after installing these due to additional fluid volume to actually push those pistons out during braking compared to that of the stock caliper. Even DC2R front calipers will have a slightly softer pedal feel than stock again due to the additional fluid volume to push the piston in the brake caliper.
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by phenoyz View Post
@Noxm09 good to know. Why did you use different pads this is already a complete brake kit. thanks.

Also my mechanic is charging me $250 to replace front brakes, passenger side studs then change brake fluid is that a fair price?
I am not to sure about the price try to get a few quotes as I do the work my self with a help of a friend. I switched out the pads to BP-20s because of the torque curve on them is more consistent with what I need at the race track. I have run them hard for 5 sessions and never ran into any issues with brake fade. As for the ruber brake lines I do you recommend you upgrade them if your planning to do any autox or racing.

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Old 10-12-2017, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Noxm09 View Post
As for the ruber brake lines I do you recommend you upgrade them if your planning to do any autox or racing.
I also bought the wilwood brake lines and going to put the ATE typ 200 (DOT 4)
brake fluid. Planning to track the car occasionally
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by phenoyz View Post
I also bought the wilwood brake lines and going to put the ATE typ 200 (DOT 4)
brake fluid. Planning to track the car occasionally
RBF600 has worked great for me never tried ATE fluid were are you planning to track ?
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Noxm09 View Post
RBF600 has worked great for me never tried ATE fluid were are you planning to track ?
laguna seca
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:45 AM
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teh RBF and ATE are pretty much equal.. Used both on many track cars never seen a difference, but I change the lfuid every 2 or 3 race weekends and bleed between sessions..
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:46 AM
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laguna seca
expensive... lol you should come down to buttonwillow raceway this weekend ill be out there.
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by dwtaylorpdx View Post
teh RBF and ATE are pretty much equal.. Used both on many track cars never seen a difference, but I change the lfuid every 2 or 3 race weekends and bleed between sessions..
what are you running that your cooking the brake fluid that much ? I normally run 6 events before I do brake fluid and its still in great shape.
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:51 AM
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expensive... lol you should come down to buttonwillow raceway this weekend ill be out there.
willow is too far but i'd love to go there

Last edited by phenoyz; 10-12-2017 at 11:11 AM.
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Noxm09 View Post
what are you running that your cooking the brake fluid that much ? I normally run 6 events before I do brake fluid and its still in great shape.
I do pit and crew duties on everything from a formula V to a Formula 5000.

I used to send the fluid out for a chemical analysis, water content, chemical comp etc, Its also about the best prepared car finishes more races.

Its part of my daily routine when I take care of a car at the track, I've put cars in the book at Seattle, Portland, Thunderhill, Firebird.. Its all about the prep.. and reading the rule book
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Old 10-12-2017, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by dwtaylorpdx View Post
I do pit and crew duties on everything from a formula V to a Formula 5000.

I used to send the fluid out for a chemical analysis, water content, chemical comp etc, Its also about the best prepared car finishes more races.

Its part of my daily routine when I take care of a car at the track, I've put cars in the book at Seattle, Portland, Thunderhill, Firebird.. Its all about the prep.. and reading the rule book
Thats great to know ! and I feel you on that but when your on a budget you just try to squeeze as much as you can lol =D I use to do my fluids every 2 events but boy did that start racking up some money. Have you ever used blackstone ? or who do you guys use to sample your fluids ?
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Old 10-12-2017, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Hootie View Post
Just chunk in a good set of front pads, decent rotors and go. Simple friction material changes make a noticeable difference with cars our size.

Have you considered or tried out say any Hawk HPS or HP+ pads or even Carbotech 1521 or AX6 pads or any other similar classed pads?

I've used the Hawk HPS, HP+ and currently using the Carbotech AX6 on my WRX.

Personally, I didn't think the HPS stopped the car any better than the OEM pads, they just didn't fade as bad. The HP+ had phenomenal initial bite but had horrendous squeal and dust. Dust I can live with, but I hate squeal. Yes, they were bedded in properly.

The Carbotech AX6 have as much initial bite or maybe more than the HP+. Lot's of dust, maybe more than the HP+, but they don't squeal. I can live with that.

IMO; I wouldn't use the HP+ or AX6 for anything other than autocross with limited street use. Once on the way back from an autocross when using the HP+ I got stuck in Chicago stop and go traffic. I could tell the HP+ pad really didn't like it. Was actually concerned about starting them on fire.
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Old 10-12-2017, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob H View Post
I've used the Hawk HPS, HP+ and currently using the Carbotech AX6 on my WRX.

Personally, I didn't think the HPS stopped the car any better than the OEM pads, they just didn't fade as bad. The HP+ had phenomenal initial bite but had horrendous squeal and dust. Dust I can live with, but I hate squeal. Yes, they were bedded in properly.

The Carbotech AX6 have as much initial bite or maybe more than the HP+. Lot's of dust, maybe more than the HP+, but they don't squeal. I can live with that.

IMO; I wouldn't use the HP+ or AX6 for anything other than autocross with limited street use. Once on the way back from an autocross when using the HP+ I got stuck in Chicago stop and go traffic. I could tell the HP+ pad really didn't like it. Was actually concerned about starting them on fire.
I used to daily AX6 pads and 913 shoes on the GD3... a bit on the aggressive side for brake friction materials but definitely had a good initial bite with good pedal modulation so driving in stop/go traffic wasn't too bad. Slotted rotors may or may not have aided this but were present during that time. The dust flat out sucked though... gray wheels looked bronze or silver wheels looked gunmetal in a matter of days.

After converting to rear disc, I stepped up from OEM Honda EP3 SI rear pads to Hawk HP+ and noticed similar squeals after proper bed in BUT the inital bite wasn't quite there with the 913 shoes I had previously but offered a lot more pedal modulation. Not sure what pad compounds the 913 compares to (maybe in between AX6 to XP10 I'm guessing?)... AX6s were still being used up front by the way.

I later switched to XP8 front, AX6 rear and rear bite is noticeably prominent when cold... thought after XP8s get some heat in them finally then that combo feels somewhat good. I'm going to run AX6 front and rear for AX and use the XP8s for MSR Houston next year. The XP8s would be better suited there anyway.

Last edited by Hootie; 10-12-2017 at 01:28 PM.
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  #18  
Old 10-17-2017, 03:37 PM
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If you are on a budget, consider ITR calipers, '04 TSX pads, and cooper rotors. NIce upgrade and wallet friendly.

AC
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