Will this bring up any OBDII codes before the "boom" event?

How can you identify a misfire at idle?

And what do you guys mean by rough idle?
Rough as-in it doesn't idle at a constant rpm, or rough as in it causes some interference vibrations that shake the steering wheel a bit when at idle?

 

No codes before the boom.

Our is never rough. You can just hear it. Especially if you stand outside the car and listen to the exhaust. It sounds like a smooth tone and every second or so it will have an audible skip/miss in the sound.

We are 43k since the last tune up and I am starting to hear the miss again.

 

I also had engine flash light and had 1 ignition coil which was bad and another one which was not working sporadically. The mechanic changed only one. But 2 days later, when we ask him to drive the car and test it, the other ignition coil stopped working and the spark plug was blown. Don't know if it was spark plugs which caused the ignition coils to go bad.
I have a 2013 honda fit hybrid GP5 from Japan.
After these incidents and repair of the car, when pressing the accelerator to start moving the car, we have to press it a little harder while before a slight press caused a big acceleration. Also, the engine sound is louder just before the car changes to second gear. Furthermore it takes a bit longer for the car to enter second gear.
Maybe someone can tell me why is that so.

 

You will notice, stopped at a light or intersection... motor is idling very constant, and then it will dip a bit. In my case it was very small dip.. from 750RPM to 700 or 650... its just enough you dont worry too much and dismiss it. It is the sensation of the motor going to stall, but very very mild.... if you notice it, dont ignore it.

 

My '11 Sport AT spark plug problems started out like this: CEL - on, VSA - disabled, at 37.7K miles.



Took me a while and $ to get it resolved before any permanent damage was done.

 

I don't have rpm meter in my car.
How to check rpm then ?

 

Happy I found this thread. I've been experiencing a rough idle when stopped in traffic or traffic light. Think I'll be pulling the plugs on the weekend to make sure everything is good.

 

If you have rough idle and you are not familiar with diagnostic procedures of this vehicle, take it to a qualified mechanic. Do not try to self diagnose if you lack the skills. Results can be expensive and devastating for your engine.

The mechanic will read the codes and perform many tests to diagnose the idle problem, e.g. injectors performance, fuel pressure, possibly timing check, valve clearance check, check of EGR system performance, etc. All of these can cause bad idle.

Do not automatically assume it's the spark plugs or if they are tight, that there is nothing further to do to diagnose unstable engine idle speed.

 

 

The more innocent and fairly easily addressed low or fluctuating idle is to clean the throttle body and if that doesn't help, perhaps gently spraying mass air flow sensor element with MAS/MAP sensor cleaner.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/autom...body/view-all/

 

You guys definitely have me worried - the 09 that I just bought is doing this. It seems to only stutter while I am stopped, usually at traffic lights. The car has 69,000 miles. I'm not exactly car savvy - is there anything I can check myself without doing damage before I have to call someone?

 

Are you comfortable with doing minor maintenance on your car? Checking the plugs, to see if they are seated right, is an easy job.
​​​​​​Go to YouTube, if not sure. Numerous videos on the procedure.

 

Glad to hear it's not too hard. I'm not averse to doing some minor maintenance on my car, it's more that this is the first vehicle that I've purchased, so I haven't done much in the past.

 

Went through this.... lost like 4 coil packs at this point! 3 times on Cyl 3, and it was heli-coiled after the 2nd time. Just happened again, and the heli-coil is out, and those threads are now toast.

Wonder if I could do the process again with a slightly larger heli-coil???

 

Maybe try inserts... I know the Cal-Van's kit is advertised for Ford Tritons but I did see mention that their inserts are thicker than most... so who knows, it might work for you.

Did you use locktite on the heli-coil?

 

I'm facing the exact same issue here. 2010 Honda with P0303 issue. Spark plug was ejected leaving no more thread .
Installed an Helicoil but still issue came back. I have to open everything to see the state of the previous repair. I'm wondering what worked well for you.

If I want to order a new head in case re-threading is not possible, anyone aware of a part number?

Thanks

 

yup... sounds like you need a head too

 

Did you have to buy a new head yourself because the helicoil did not hold? Where did you get it?
I guess you have to change bolts and gasket as well...

Thanks for the help

 

Anyone tried to investigate a root cause? (factory defect-- incomplete thread from factory vs. improper replacement procedure)?
When I'm reading it I can't believe it's about Honda, sounds more like Russian Oka subcompact made in early 90's...

 

There are several threads speculating the spark plugs were undertorqued out of the factory. Honda issued higher torque specs recently. A lot of us changed the plugs just to retorque. Obviously the alu head is soft so max torque is pretty low. Changing the plugs is a PITA and dealers charge a lot for that service.

With just a handful of specs it seems the hotter 2 & 3 plugs tend to untorque then blow out most frequently. But there is not enough data. Do some research here as the threads are interesting and there are a lot of expereinced people on the forum.