Trailer hitch diy (lots of pics)
Trailer hitch diy (lots of pics)
Alright. I know someone is going to say it so I'm going to beat them to it. No you are not suppose to pull anything with the fit. It can void warranties..blah blah blah.
This is a DIY to show you how to install a trailer hitch only for bike rack purposes only. I nor fitfreak.net are no way responsible of damage or loss of warranty installing a trailer hitch.
Ok lets begin.
I recieved a draw-tite hitch receiver in the mail earlier this week w/ 1 1/4 hitch opening.
Bought it from...
2009*Honda*Fit*Draw-Tite, Reese, Hidden Hitch, Valley and Curt search with the*Hitch Hunter ™ by etrailer.com (800) 298-8924
If anyone wants one as well.
Please download their instructions or read them when you recieve the hitch (should include them)
I also have an Allen bike rack with a 1 1/4 hitch connector....
These are the screws and washer that are needed to connect the hitch to the frame of the car. (note the rectangle washer needs to go inside the frame. The wire is to feed the rect. washer and screw through one hole in the frame (Hole closer to the rear of the car) to the next hole)
Before any of this is posible you must first create a key hole or some how widen the first hole (hole closer to the rear of the car) so the rectangular washer can fit inside it)..... I was going to try and use my jig saw with a metal cutting blade but this was not possible with the lack of space under the car. I opted to just use my drill to widen the hole slowly until the washer was able to fit inside the hole in the frame...
(refer back to etrailer link and review their instructions if this doesn't make sense.)
Next your going to feed the rect washer and screw from the key hole hole in frame (picture above) to this hole with the wire provided....
WARNING!
What ever you do..do not lose the rect washer or the screw in the frame. If you do your screwed. Make sure the wire is attached to the screw very well and be sure not to push the screw back into the frame at any time.
Thus... securing my wires....ha ha...
Next we want to position your hitch to your screws in the frame.
Very important!!!...One tip I recommend is taking off the rear passenger side wheel. The hitch receiver is a pain to get around the muffler on the passenger side and by taking off the wheel it give you a little more space and makes it easier to mount to the frame.
I recommend lining up the passenger side first then drivers side.
Also take out the one plastic clip from the fram on the drivers side so the hitch reciever sits flush against the frame...
If your doing this by yourself be sure to use jack stands and or bungy cords to help hold up the reciever in the correct position. (I used both)
After you get the receiver postioned start putting the washer and lug nut on....
Make sure you have an extension for your ratchet. The muffler makes it a pain in the ars to get to...
After all the bolts are tightened your good to go....
Just a reminder but I am lowered on DF210 springs so I was wondering how my clearances to the ground were going to be but the hitch reciever didn't hang down any lower than my trunk or rest of underneath of my car.
In this photo you can see my side skirt on the side is about the same level as the hitch.
The only issue I see is if you go up a really steep driveway the hitch reciever does stick out a little farther than the bumper so you might scrap it (or your rack might touch if your not careful) Any one with a lowered car has to be carful...even without a hitch reciever and hitch. Note I have a slightly sloped driveway and I was fine with the reciever, bike rack and bike on there....
Yes that is a 3 bike, bike rack. I only put my bike on there right now because the wifes is stored on the ceiling in the garage and I didn't feel like pulling them both down....
Hope this helps anyone thinking of doing this. I'm excited to take the bikes out soon.
This is a DIY to show you how to install a trailer hitch only for bike rack purposes only. I nor fitfreak.net are no way responsible of damage or loss of warranty installing a trailer hitch.
Ok lets begin.
I recieved a draw-tite hitch receiver in the mail earlier this week w/ 1 1/4 hitch opening.
Bought it from...
2009*Honda*Fit*Draw-Tite, Reese, Hidden Hitch, Valley and Curt search with the*Hitch Hunter ™ by etrailer.com (800) 298-8924
If anyone wants one as well.
Please download their instructions or read them when you recieve the hitch (should include them)
I also have an Allen bike rack with a 1 1/4 hitch connector....
These are the screws and washer that are needed to connect the hitch to the frame of the car. (note the rectangle washer needs to go inside the frame. The wire is to feed the rect. washer and screw through one hole in the frame (Hole closer to the rear of the car) to the next hole)
Before any of this is posible you must first create a key hole or some how widen the first hole (hole closer to the rear of the car) so the rectangular washer can fit inside it)..... I was going to try and use my jig saw with a metal cutting blade but this was not possible with the lack of space under the car. I opted to just use my drill to widen the hole slowly until the washer was able to fit inside the hole in the frame...
(refer back to etrailer link and review their instructions if this doesn't make sense.)
Next your going to feed the rect washer and screw from the key hole hole in frame (picture above) to this hole with the wire provided....
WARNING!
What ever you do..do not lose the rect washer or the screw in the frame. If you do your screwed. Make sure the wire is attached to the screw very well and be sure not to push the screw back into the frame at any time.
Thus... securing my wires....ha ha...
Next we want to position your hitch to your screws in the frame.
Very important!!!...One tip I recommend is taking off the rear passenger side wheel. The hitch receiver is a pain to get around the muffler on the passenger side and by taking off the wheel it give you a little more space and makes it easier to mount to the frame.
I recommend lining up the passenger side first then drivers side.
Also take out the one plastic clip from the fram on the drivers side so the hitch reciever sits flush against the frame...
If your doing this by yourself be sure to use jack stands and or bungy cords to help hold up the reciever in the correct position. (I used both)
After you get the receiver postioned start putting the washer and lug nut on....
Make sure you have an extension for your ratchet. The muffler makes it a pain in the ars to get to...
After all the bolts are tightened your good to go....
Just a reminder but I am lowered on DF210 springs so I was wondering how my clearances to the ground were going to be but the hitch reciever didn't hang down any lower than my trunk or rest of underneath of my car.
In this photo you can see my side skirt on the side is about the same level as the hitch.
The only issue I see is if you go up a really steep driveway the hitch reciever does stick out a little farther than the bumper so you might scrap it (or your rack might touch if your not careful) Any one with a lowered car has to be carful...even without a hitch reciever and hitch. Note I have a slightly sloped driveway and I was fine with the reciever, bike rack and bike on there....
Yes that is a 3 bike, bike rack. I only put my bike on there right now because the wifes is stored on the ceiling in the garage and I didn't feel like pulling them both down....
Hope this helps anyone thinking of doing this. I'm excited to take the bikes out soon.
Last edited by Committobefit08; Mar 22, 2009 at 02:03 AM.
Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 200
From: NSW, Australia
Interesting that the US Fit is "Thou shalt not tow" and the Australian Jazz is "450kg max unbraked, 800kg with trailer brakes" and they even offer a tow hitch for the purpose (at A$750 fitted
). Manual models will tow up to a ton if the trailer has brakes (I shudder to think what a steep boat ramp would do to your clutch).
I think the factor that makes the difference is that the Australian Vehicle has rear disc brakes, which would make towing a lot safer. I would be hesitant trying it on a drum brake model.
Interestingly, the Toyota Yaris (for example) has no accessory tow hitch available (from Toyota anyway) and has drum rear brakes.
). Manual models will tow up to a ton if the trailer has brakes (I shudder to think what a steep boat ramp would do to your clutch).I think the factor that makes the difference is that the Australian Vehicle has rear disc brakes, which would make towing a lot safer. I would be hesitant trying it on a drum brake model.
Interestingly, the Toyota Yaris (for example) has no accessory tow hitch available (from Toyota anyway) and has drum rear brakes.
Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 200
From: NSW, Australia
We don't have quite as many feral lawyers here, but they do exist. I don't think we have the situation where people sue the manufacturer of their car when they have an accident unless there is clearly a design flaw.
Having said that, Honda would not give tow ratings or offer a tow hitch if they weren't 100% certain that they could cover any warranty issues that resulted. Break the tow hitch and chances are you pulled something too heavy = no warranty for you.
I think it comes down to a combination of disc vs drum brakes plus different expectations. Here, when people want to tow things with a small car, it's usually a light weight 6x4 box trailer or a small dinghy. You wouldn't attempt a caravan with it.
Unfortunately I guess in the USA they have to cover the possibility that someone will hook up a 2 Tonne caravan because "the hitch fits right on". Here, everyone would laugh at your stupidity. Over there, they might sue and win because Honda failed to prevent them from doing so. Then the authorities would mandate a complicated "hitch lockout system" that prevents people from hooking up a load that's too heavy.
This is why you have to put up with TPMS and I don't.
Having said that, Honda would not give tow ratings or offer a tow hitch if they weren't 100% certain that they could cover any warranty issues that resulted. Break the tow hitch and chances are you pulled something too heavy = no warranty for you.
I think it comes down to a combination of disc vs drum brakes plus different expectations. Here, when people want to tow things with a small car, it's usually a light weight 6x4 box trailer or a small dinghy. You wouldn't attempt a caravan with it.
Unfortunately I guess in the USA they have to cover the possibility that someone will hook up a 2 Tonne caravan because "the hitch fits right on". Here, everyone would laugh at your stupidity. Over there, they might sue and win because Honda failed to prevent them from doing so. Then the authorities would mandate a complicated "hitch lockout system" that prevents people from hooking up a load that's too heavy.
This is why you have to put up with TPMS and I don't.
I iler or a small dinghy. You wouldn't attempt a caravan with it.
Unfortunately I guess in the USA they have to cover the possibility that someone will hook up a 2 Tonne caravan because "the hitch fits right on". Here, everyone would laugh at your stupidity. Over there, they might sue and win because Honda failed to prevent them from doing so. Then the authorities would mandate a complicated "hitch lockout system" that prevents people from hooking up a load that's too heavy.
This is why you have to put up with TPMS and I don't.
only in america!
Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,208
From: Quebec, Canada
... Here, when people want to tow things with a small car, it's usually a light weight 6x4 box trailer or a small dinghy. You wouldn't attempt a caravan with it.
Unfortunately I guess in the USA they have to cover the possibility that someone will hook up a 2 Tonne caravan because "the hitch fits right on". Here, everyone would laugh at your stupidity...
Unfortunately I guess in the USA they have to cover the possibility that someone will hook up a 2 Tonne caravan because "the hitch fits right on". Here, everyone would laugh at your stupidity...
Thanks guys!
Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 200
From: NSW, Australia
Like this? YouTube - Car Trailer
It might be in my head but after a week of driving the car with the hitch receiver on there it seems as if the rear of the car is more stable around turns now. Almost as if the hitch receiver is a heavy duty sway bar. ha.
Essentially it accomplishes the same thing.
Essentially it accomplishes the same thing.
Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 200
From: NSW, Australia
It might be in my head but after a week of driving the car with the hitch receiver on there it seems as if the rear of the car is more stable around turns now. Almost as if the hitch receiver is a heavy duty sway bar. ha.
Essentially it accomplishes the same thing.
Essentially it accomplishes the same thing.
If your tow bar was doing this it would need to be connected to the suspension - bad idea.
Not quite. It accomplishes the same thing as a strut brace that reduces body flex - a good thing! A sway bar reduces body roll and transfers more load on the rear wheels when cornering - also a good thing (in a front wheel drive car) but different.
If your tow bar was doing this it would need to be connected to the suspension - bad idea.
If your tow bar was doing this it would need to be connected to the suspension - bad idea.
This is the rear sway/stabilizer bar I was refering to (link below). I thought it was same connect points to the frame as my hitch receiver but I can't tell where this is actually connecting in the picture. Essentially I can't see why it wouldn't accomplish the same. If not anything yes it make the frame more stable especially in the rear of the car which is needed more on car with a hatch due to the lack of structural framing (= less frame/body twisting)????
Honda Fit , Jazz (2008) Rear Anti-roll Bar / Rear Sway Bar / Rear Stabilizer Bar UR-AR19-196
enlighten me if I'm wrong.
Last edited by Committobefit08; Mar 26, 2009 at 11:53 PM.