So I spoke with a Honda dealership today and asked what was involved in the trans service first of all. He told me there's NO filter, just a drain plug like the engine oil pan. He said you just remove the plug and let it drain out, about 3-4 quarts and that's it. He said he's been suggesting that people do it at 30k and not waiting till 60k for the first service.

Now my thing is this, why is there no filter and how does the trans last without doing any maintence to it? Who thought this was a good idea?

Thoughts, comments, idea's

 

The service techs told this guy the same thing, yet he found a filter and replaced it. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...lter-pics.html

Granted, he has a GD, but I'd be willing to bet it's the same setup. I don't know why tranny fluid lasts so long, but I do know if you go too long without changing it, and it starts slipping, then it's better to just not touch it.

I plan on changing mine at 25,000 which I project to hit over my Christmas break.

 

Heat is the only real enemy for trans fluid. I doubt many of us are getting even AT fluid temps above 220-230F.

A bigger trans cooler, like a hayden oil cooler from a diesel truck would do the trick.

MT guys don't have a whole lot of heat (A/T wet clutch packs, etc.) or torque (shock loading) to worry about which leaves only high rpm, and even with the KW flash, 7100rpm on Honda, Royal Purple or Redline MTF is not a big deal.

30-60k seems reasonable. I am running 2/3 Redline MT90 with a bottle of lightweight shockproof in my GD, after 23k miles of hard driving I have no ill effects to report. I will inspect @ 30k and get back to you guys though..

Klasse Act or thefit09, is there any chance one of you guys can take a picture of a few drops of new trans fluid next to a few drops of your used fluid on a white background (piece of posterboard or printer paper on cardboard) when you perform the change? Check the magnetic plug for debris as well!

Just like engine oil I usually put on a nitrile glove and dip my hand in the old fluid and try to see if I can feel or see any particulate matter.

 

Maybe I'm being too casual about engine maintenance but I figure the guys that wrote the owners manual know more about the subject than I do. I follow their suggestions. I have never had a lubrication problem of any kind with any of my cars, motorcycles or boats after driving over 60 years.

 

I change my AT fluid every 10,000 miles. I drive a lot.

 

When you say you change it every 10k, is this the 3-4 quarts of fluid? If so, is it special fluid? The reason I ask is because I'd like to mix in Mobil 1 synthetic ATF if it works with the Honda ATF.

Any idea's

 

Are both of you guys running the stock AT coolers? Try sticking a switched 7" slim fan or relocating the cooler to a fenderwell for more airflow.

Or get a bigger cooler!

 

We've changed ours twice. Once at 18k miles, the next time at 28k miles. A Magnefine inline filter was added at 18k miles too. Both times the old ATF was brown and water thin. The shifting got better immediately after changing the fluid.

Given the fragility of late-model Civic, Accord, and Odyssey transmissions, we are not taking chances with this transmission. New fluid every second oil change until it stops oxidizing (hah!), and a new Magnefine every 30k miles. It's cheaper than a new transmission.

There's a reason Honda is moving to DW-1 synthetic ATF from "dino " Z-1 ATF. So their 60k mile recommendation makes sense.

 

What is this Magnafine inline filter you speak of, can you give some more info on this, thanks

 

....when removing the drain plug and letting it come out

Also, does anyone know if I can mix Mobil 1 synthetic ATF in with the factory Honda ATF which I heard is synthetic too. Does Honda actually use synthetic ATF in our trans?

 

I imagine it would state that somewhere in the manual

Personally, and this is just my opinion, I would stick with the Honda ATF. But Mobil 1, AMSOIL or Redline would probably all be just fine.

 

Magnefine--Your Source For Magnefine Inline Filters

magnefine - Google Search

All you ever wanted to know on Magnefines is over on Bob is the Oil Guy.

We have them on both cars. On the Fit it's a ridiculously easy installation. Unclamp the long hose heading to the cooler from over the top of the transmission, put on provided extra hose, make sure all your needed hose clamps are on the hose, slip filter into the hose with the arrow pointing towards the front of the car, tighten hose clamps.

$16+shipping, or about $20 after everything. Not too bad for peace of mind.

 

I use Honda ATF. And I wouldn't mix two fluids together. Just stick with one.

My GE8 is my daily driver and upgrading to a bigger AT cooler is unneccesary IMO.

 

Upon rethinking this I agree that if you spend lots of time at highway speed and the torque converter is locked up with lots of air passing over the stock cooler you won't be generating a whole lot of heat.

But more spirited variable driving conditions may require a larger core.

You want the ATF fluid warm, but not too hot.

 

I agree with this statement. If I tracked my GE8, I'd definitely upgrade to a larger cooler.

 

Changing the fluid every second oil change is cheap insurance against a transmission failure. Given Honda's poor record with their automatic transmissions lately, changing fluid is the easiest thing an owner can do to prevent failure. Plus, changing ATF on the Fit is as easy as changing the oil.

 

How much fluid do I need to buy at the dealership when I change it out? I called Mobil yesterday and he told me their synthetic ATF is NOT to be used with the Honda fluid.

 

5 quarts

 

3 quarts got our Fit full again after draining the AT pan.

 

Thanks, I'm going to pick some up locally. Now, the guy above says 5, is this because he may have a GD Maybe I should get 4