It all has to do with where the bleed nipple is in relation to the piston cavity. None of the air above the bleed nipple will get let out during bleeding. The way your calipers are mounted, the caliper needs to be un-mounted, rotated (clocked) on the disc so the bleed nipple faces up, bleed the brakes blead and then reinstall them again…just to bleed them! A royal PITA!

DiamondStarMonster, if you were an engineer, you would have known that…

Hahaha is this derived from the same engineering acumen you used to determine you want a larger contact patch in the winter?

Maybe you just don't know how to bleed your own brakes?

Speaking of engineering, indeed I am one, as such I can develop simple solutions to problems like this if it indeed happens to be a problem and alltrac indicates you are off the mark.... all you would have to do then were it an issue is jack the rear of the car up slightly or back it onto some Rhino ramps.

Ta-da, problem solved. Go be stupid elsewhere.

This is a nice product from one of the very few free lancers we have in this community.

OK so back on topic, when are we throwing down money to make this happen?

Jodele. I guess my friends are right, I've gotten soft in my old age. Normally when people come into my house & sh*t all over the floor I'm all over that, but, I guess having to "splain" things to my 6 year old all day long does the trick.
It's obvious you don' have any brake of fluid dynamics experience, so here goes. Your ass-umption with the orientation of the bleed nipple on this application is false, even if it was oriented more downward it would bleed, because,,,,,its under pressure, when it's bled the old fashion way (like I bled mine) or if I took it to the shop, with a pneumatic (suction) bleeder (this gets everything out). Now back to the caliper in question, here is an inside out shot of the left caliper ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting you'll notice the bleed nipple is above the feed line & is on the upper portion of the bore where there is a recess even higher within the bore.
This setup BLED easily as designed.

DSM, much appreciated

Trying to get it cheaper & still have to test fit whats made

^^Well keep me posted man, I'm down for this ASAP.

Look man, do a very simple experiment before you tell me I'm wrong…take a plastic bottle, put a hole in the side of it, screw the top back on it tight with water in it about 3/4 of the way to the hole. Squeeze the bottle and see how high up the water will go (you may even suck on the side of the bottle for succion if you would like)…After you are done playing with that, rotate the bottle so the hole is at the top and see how eazily the air gets out of the bottle without even having to suck on it! Then tell me I’m defecating in your house.

DiamondStarMonster, you are correct…you just ignored the angle you will have to get your car on. Drive your car into a pit to get your car 90-degrees. Make a YouTube video for us. I’d like to watch you drive it into that pit…and get your car out of it later.

From this shot, it looks like the bleed port might be close to the top of the piston cavity even though the bleed port faces back (90-degrees) to it...
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/6...1114165938.jpg

I've got Integra Type-R calipers on my GD3 with the T1R kit and I've got the problem I've described.

They did that to bleed the brakes...like DiamondStarMonster said...you can drive your car on ramps to do that but your car will have to be 20-degrees @$$ high! Had you just clocked it per the OEM installation, you would have been golden...

Here is your chance to make a product improvement… No hate here!

Don't need to, it bleeds fine as oriented.

But in your case there is a simple solution to getting the air pocket out. just use a water bottle 1/2 full of brake fluid with a vacuum hose thru the screwed on cap, keep the discharge end submerged at all time, this way when the piston retracts there is no additional air going into the system, just crack the nipple just enough for fluid to come out, then you can pump the brake pedal till there are no more bubbles....This is how we speed bleed at the track when we change calipers....problem solved

On the defecating: A simple question of "did you have any bleeding issue" before "you did it wrong" when you assume there were problems. Just a little etiquette


I'm a say this one last time, NO BLEEDING ISSUES, BRAKES NOT SPONGY. NO RAMPS NEEDED

Caliper is in the optimal position, because of the shape on the factory hub if the caliper moved, there will be an issue with the e-brake cable as well as 2nd bracket strength.


I'm confused, what does your issues have to do with this, when I've stated there are NO issues? Your statement above does not support your position.

This is a guy who just goes with his gut and what he perceives to be true, facts be damned. He routinely gets the basics wrong, so this is par for the course.

Don't waste your time alltrac.

bump
 

I hope this didn't end up getting killed.... :confused:

:offtopic:
alltrac, any updates? still interested.

alltrac, any updates? still interested. Same aswell :)

All the people who I've contacted want to do runs of 10 or more, I know you guys are interested, but that's about it.
Put the word out...
I've put about 10,000 miles on the rear disc conversion & I still think its the best addition to this car

So would U be selling us the bracket to make it work or the whole kit as for pricing how much r we looking at to pay plz pm me details I'm very interested still

So if we can start a GI thread and get atleast 10 people to commit I'm guessing this can move forward?

That is correct, "Brackets only" this will make the final product cost effective for the end user.
As per cost, The quotes I've been getting are in the $300+ range without CAD drawings. 4 pieces
This is a critical safety part of the car, the brackets needs to be "DONE CORRECTLY" since most of the end user/installer have no experience with brake modifications & will be doing this at their "OWN RISK".

That would put the fire under my ass, LOL....
There isn't much money to be made with this sort of thing, mainly did it for my own purpose since I planned to race the Fit, but if it could fund some of the mods & help out the GE community, all the better

So with this bracket all we need to is source our own parts, would you be giving us the list of products needed to make it work as well...

last question is there any modding needed to make it work or all we need is bracket and its plug and play

Q:A:

Q:A:Wafulz, you wanna start the GI thread? You're quite good at drumming up support from the troops. :D :thumbups:

Thanks for helping me with my questions :) now i just need to see The welded factory flange with the minor trimming to put the 2nd flange (for the caliper) on.

Im In

just seeing if hopefully i can get the rest of funs for the jdm rear end if not im jumping on this with cash on hand :)