Would a bracket from K-SPort work for the front? K Sport Racing - Honda Jazz Mk2 286mm 6 Pot Conversion Kit - GSM Brakes - Brake conversion kits, replacement pads, rotors and upgrade calipers

Hello,

the K-Sport bracket you pointed above would not work,
K Sport - Honda Jazz Mk2 286mm 6 Pot Conversion Kit

because the Brembo rotor from BR-Z is 14in or 355mm in diameter,
so the K Sport bracket would not be tall enough,


plus the 6 Pot K Sport Caliper might not have the same mounting distance (between bolt) and offset compare to Brembo 6 piston caliper.
at a glance the 6 Pot K Sport Caliper looks smaller too.

Too bad they did not offer the jazz in 8 pot like the Mini.

http://www.zerotohundred.com/wp-cont...94-600x399.jpg

Review: K-Sport 8 Pot 330mm Big Brake Kit – R53 MINI Cooper S

I just ordered the Wilwood Hat and the Bolt for mounting the rotor to the hat from SummitRacing.
Hopefully arrive within a week (I choose slow ground shipping because it is free hahaha) :)

I plan to test the fitment of the Wilwood Hat with TheBrakeMan.com Revolution Rotor. But that rotor is still in production (back order),
TheBrakeMan.com promise they will email me once they had in stock,
so I can come to their facility for testing fitment with Wilwood Hat.

I just hope the stock Honda RS caliper Pad area will fit that rotor perfectly...
otherwise, I will be forced to use regular shape cross drilled solid steel rotor from Wilwood instead, which is not bad but not as unique as TheBrakeMan revolution rotor :)

I just finish sound deadening my Driver's door (Passenger's door still few days away hahaha)...

and The UPS Delivery Person arrive :)

When he handed me the box,
I feel excited right away,
why, because the box is VERY LIGHT !!!

I immediately open it,
and there it is, my Wilwood rotor HAT and Wilwood's bolt...

I open it, and measure the weight, and then try to fit the HAT onto my JDM RS rear axle,
turn out, everything is perfect, the rotor hat offset is just the way I predict it will,
which mean I can mount the rotor without having to remove or cut the stock Backing Plate... (removing the backing plate mean i had to take out the wheel hub etc etc, beside, I prefer if I still have the backing plate) :)

Ok, here are the pictures:
Attachment 19474


Attachment 19475


Rotor Hat Weight is just 634 grams !!!
Attachment 19476


Bolt Weight: 119 grams
Attachment 19477


Test Fitment on my JDM RS Rear Axle:

Notice that it had 2 centering bolt just like stock Honda OEM disk brake,
this mean I don't really need to buy hubcentric ring,
although this rotor center hub diameter is slightly larger then our's because
this rotor hat is for Honda Civic with 64mm center hub (our's 61mm only)

Attachment 19478


Attachment 19479


Attachment 19480


I am checking the offset,
notice I put my stock RS Rear Disk brake which are 9mm thick between
the rotor hat and the backing plate,
and there are still plenty of space !!!
Attachment 19481Attachment 19482


There are 2 candidate rotors for me,
first is TheBrakeMan scalloped 12.19in diameter rotor which are 9.5mm thick,
so only 0.5mm thicker than my standard rotors,
second is Wilwood 12in diameter rotor which are less then 9mm thick,
so both rotor definitely will clear the backing plate !

It is also easier this way than using a deeper offset rotor hat because
this will be easier to make the bracket for the OEM caliper since
there are more space !!! :)

Again more pictures :
Attachment 19483Attachment 19484


Attachment 19485

by the way,
the caliper yellow paint had been cured in the oven yesterday, and tomorrow I am going to paint them with
CLEAR COAT color so they will by DEEPLY SHINY :),
after that another 7 days before I can put them in the oven (for curing the clear coat)...
then if I still have free time, I will rebuilt the caliper to replace all the seal...
but during the next month (entire June) I might have other things coming soon, so this project might had to wait a bit...

here are the calipers:
Attachment 19486

(just missing one parking brake bracket, because I had to repaint it since I manage to nick/chip the paint a bit cause I hit something on it before I cure/oven it).

As a Prerequisite before I can install any Big Brake kit,
I need to change the factory stock suspension first.

Because with my future plan to install more powerful front brake, combine with the current large tyre, a sudden braking maneuver on stock soft factory Honda suspension,
will result in sudden weight transfer to the front wheel, ...
then the rear wheel will not have enough mass to put it down and resulting in loss of traction,
and with planned 12.19in diameter rear disk brake rotor,
meaning now the rear wheel would lock up easily, and this will be very dangerous...
combined that with doing the sudden braking in a corner,
plus doing it while raining, and this is a recipe of disaster...

I had tested the current standard suspension with current standard brake but with my current tire (225/40ZR18), and when I make a very sudden full emergency braking test, the rear end of my car FISH TAIL (on dry road !).
I can't imagine if I do this with larger brake...

so before I install any brake upgrade,
a stiffer and lowered suspension is a must.

I choose Bilstein because it is stiffer then the stock suspension but not race car stiff.
I do not plan to track my car, but use this car for daily use, the Bilstein progressive spring will suit me better.

Another reason is because of the Bilstein Brand had some cachet to it :)
There are other suspension that might be suitable for my needs too,
and they are cheaper than Bilstein,
but if I buy those suspension,
then I would not be able to say I own a Bilstein since it is not a Bilstein,
and those suspension were NOT Made in Germany :)
so yes, the Bilstein Brand play a very important role in buying this suspension.

Truth is, I wish I could buy Ohlins (from Japan), because I like Ohlins brand even better, but at around 3 times the price of Bilstein (including shipping and Tenso forwarding cost), it is just too expensive for my current budget :)

At the very last moment before I buy this Bilstein from TireRack,
I actually thinking of buying Koni's from Chris,
because with the ability to choose the custom spring rate,
I would be able to custom order/spec a slightly harder than Bilstein spring rate but not as stiff as the current recommended spring rate from Chris's website...
I figure that with a slightly harder spring rate (compare to Bilstein),
the weight transfer caused by my future big brake plan will be even less and stiffer spring will mean less body roll too...
Beside Koni's brand is a world class brand too :)
but
at this moment the Koni's kit are still not ready for ship,
and I need to install the after market suspension asap
since a Fitfreak member had PAID me Full Amount IN ADVANCE for my stock OEM suspension,
and I promise to ship my stock OEM suspension to him asap,
so I could not wait much longer for the Koni's,
that is why I bought this Bilstein right away.

When I have more cash flow, I will have to buy the Spoon front sway bar and Progress rear sway bar so my car will have much less body roll.

I don't really care about understeering from thicker Spoon front sway bar,
all I want is to make the body roll as minimum as possible.
I don't aim for rear rotate ability, but I aim for as flat handling as possible.

another reason that make me need to add front and rear sway bar is
because the Bilstein is a progressive spring,
so the initial body roll will always be there (albeit much less then stock suspension and until the car lean enough for the Bilstein progressive spring to stiffen up considerably)...
even if I bought the Koni's I still want to put front and rear sway bar because I will buy the softer spring rate for the Koni's and there will
still be body roll with softer spring rate.
Of course if you buy the higher spring rate options for the Koni's you might not need swaybar but it might be too stiff for my daily use.

The Ohlins, well the Ohlins have as stiff (or stiffer) spring rate as the Konis, but the Ohlins shocks have that special by pass valving which allow the shock absorber to be compliant with sudden but small bump on the road while remain stiff during cornering, (well, money don't lie)
but again their price is almost 3 times Bilstein (and more then 2 times Koni's kit) so I had to let them go hahaha

anyway, I am still waiting for the tools (Makita impact wrench, Spring compressor, Hydraulic Jack and Jack Stand, Ingersoll Rand Impact Socket) that I need to install this suspension arrive (bought from Amazon),... so for now I still can not install this suspension yet...

and here are the pictures of me doing the step by step unboxing :)

Outer Box from TireRack:
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf3ba8897.jpg


Outer Box from Bilstein:
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps50874d98.jpg


Inner Bilstein Box:
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6e608812.jpg


The envelope containing Installation Manual (the logo is Bilstein Parent Company, ThyssenKrupp) :
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps968ba379.jpg


All the suspension still inside the protective wrap:
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf7f8acb4.jpg


Front Strut with Spring and 2 tie lock for ABS wire sensor:
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf2f61748.jpg


Close Up look on the front strut logo:
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps215886dd.jpg



Nurburgring map :)
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd892d28d.jpg


Bilstein marketing mantra (tested on Nurburgring) :)
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps8077a5f8.jpg



Rear Shocks, Rear Spring and Rear Spring Mounting plus height adjustment wrench/tools:
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa53f435e.jpg


More close up looks at the rear suspension parts:
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6cf528ee.jpghttp://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdbb3947a.jpghttp://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps457d055e.jpghttp://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps70d18119.jpghttp://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps9cf60e33.jpg


and last, the 4 piece (2 pair) of SPC camber bolt bought from Tire Rack too :)
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...psc7bfc277.jpg

Is there ANYTHING on your Fit you haven't modded LOL.:thumbups:

One other reason why I choose Bilstein is...
so I can put Bilstein Sticker on My Front Fender hahaha :D

The Bilstein sticker arrive today, but my hydraulic jack from Amazon
will not arrive until tomorrow, so that mean I cannot install my Bilstein yet,...
but I am NOT patience and decide to put the sticker first before the suspension it self hahaha :o

Well, just think of these pictures as Before Lowering and After Lowering pictures :rotfl:

I like the Bilstein sticker because they are in Blue and Yellow Color which mean it will match my car's Taffeta White paint.
The Bilstein spring itself are blue color and the rear shocks are yellow color too, so again this will match my car's Taffeta White Color, and my yellow brake caliper in the future :)

To make sure I install it correctly, I use masking tape and measure everything.
The distance from the horizontal edge of the sticker to the the door line is 3.5cm
and the distance from the top of the sticker to the ground (height) is 65cm.

I think the right side looks better because the Yellow Circle Shape of the sticker stay close the the fender,
while the Blue Square Shape of the sticker have parallel straight line with the door line...
but I guess that is just me being to Obsessive with Perfection :rotfl:

by the way, I usually don't like to put any sticker on my car, in fact this is the only sticker I plan to put on my car...
(beside a very small "whale" sticker on the rear window to identify small kids on board that I got when I buy my
Son's Recaro Baby Seat)...

but I always inspired with the small yellow prancing horse sticker/emblem on the side of a Ferrari,
or an AGIP yellow sticker on the side of a Ducati, so here when I see a Yellow and Blue logo of Bilstein...
well that inspire me, hopefully someday I will be able to own a Ferrari :)


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf32b7dac.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps49272b0f.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps7740e393.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa83613af.jpg

http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6cc13b51.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps633c725f.jpg


oh, this is the tools that arrive yesterday (too bad the hydraulic jacks do not arrive at the same time):
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2eb2905e.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps3937a784.jpg


EDIT, more pictures after the hydraulic jack arrive and during install of the rear suspension,
I don't have picture of the front suspension install since I was too busy with figuring out how to install and it is already dark (night):
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6c1f3bd5.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps66668dff.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps9117f223.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps673ce0f7.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa0f6fed4.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2388749b.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps3267118b.jpg

Just keep in mind that the front axles have a nasty habit of popping out if the diff when you change front struts and can be a big pain in the butt trying to get them back in. :(

Hi Loudbang,

Thanks for the reminder,

since this is my first ever suspension DIY,...
I certainly hope I will NOT forget to support the front axles with either the hydraulic jack or my second set of jack stand (if it is short enough to fit under the axle)... when I taking out the front suspension...

I am currently printing the Honda Service Manual so I can follow it step by step...

again thanks for the reminder :)

I just post this post below on Bilstein Specific Thread,
but I figure since I already start writing about Bilstein on this tread,
might as well complete it with my review about Bilstein...
so here it goes:

I want to add my own review on Bilstein Coil Over.

I install them yesterday,
it took me 14 hours to do it myself but that is because I follow every instruction in the Honda Service Manual regarding every torque on every bolt, I also took my time when taking out the plastic cowl panel etc etc...
and I am extra careful when compressing the front spring cause I don't want any accident :), but still the 14 hours install time most likely because I am not a professional mechanic...
hahaha :rotfl:

The Bilstein Rear Spring Perch came set up already in it's lowest position,
so I keep it that way.

The Bilstein Front Coil Over also came set up in it's lowest position,
but turn out this is too low for my car which had 18in wheel.

I finish around 11pm last night and immediately test drive it to the nearest Mc Donalds (my stomach need some service too since I had not eat my lunch and dinner yet hahaha)...
The car FRONT Wheel/Tire rub in every little dip and bump with 4 passenger on board !!!
although the rear do not rub at all though...
so I have to drive at around 30mph at it still rub a lot when I hit small bump/dip, which mean I can not really test the different between Bilstein and stock suspension.

I am too tired to raise the front and it is already 12 at night when I get back home so I wait until today to raise it...

This afternoon, I raise the Front Suspension.
The Front Left (Driver Side) 15mm from it's lowest position, and the Front Right (Passenger Side), I raise 10mm.
I do this because I measure the Left (Driver Side) somehow lower than the Right Side, after I raise it, it have same height (my own version of corner balancing hahaha, although it is not exactly a true corner balancing :) )

I also had put SPC camber bolt and I try to adjust it to negative camber,
but I don't think I had it adjusted right, so tomorrow I am going to align it and also install my Spoon Front Sway Bar at the same time.

so this review is BEFORE I add Spoon Front Sway Bar, and BEFORE any alignment !!!

Well now that I am able to drive at normal speed with the raise front suspension,
I must say that the Bilstein suspension for our Honda Fit is AMAZING !!!

The car still ride as comfortable as standard suspension,
actually it is even more comfortable yet more firm at the same time !!!
It hard to describe but all I can say is,
my cheap Honda Fit now ride similar to AMG Mercedes or BMW Alpina !!!
Yes, I am serious about this...

I also had 18in wheel with 40 profile tire, so perhaps the 18in wheel allow the car to "flow" over dips easier then standard factory wheel since my 18in wheel/tire combo is actually about 1inch larger in overall diameter than factory wheel/tire combo.
So this too might contribute to the AMG/Alpina like ride !!!

Ok, to make it simple, a big big dump truck tire would "flow" over bump without even feel the bump/dip it self, while a small scooter tire might get sunk/stuck into that dip or (unable to travel over big bump)...
so to a lesser extend, my larger 18in wheel/tire would be more comfortable over bump/dip than the smaller wheel/tire as long as I don't put ultra thin tire profile, and at 40 side profile, it is still quite thick.

on the other hand my 18in wheel and tire are heavier than the standard factory wheel/tire, so it easily overwhelm the standard factory suspension.
(and yes, I know 18in wheel make my car slower but I don't care about that, all I care is the looks and how the car feel/ride/handle with my hand).

With the stronger dampening force of Bilstein shocks and stronger spring rate, now the suspension is back in control and able to control the heavier unsprung weight of my 18in wheel/tire...

I bought Michelin Pilot Super Sport as my tire because I was hoping it would help my car handle and ride like AMG/Alpina, Ok,
at least similar to those AMG/Alpina but I was disappointed because my car feel like someone using too big shoe,
but that is BEFORE I install this Bilstein Coil Over !!!

Now, (I personally feel) that it is really a Match Made in Heaven between My Suspension, My 18in Wheel and My 225/40ZR18 Tire !!!

I am NOT exaggerating this...
but oh man, the ride is much more stable,
the car track straight true, it does not tram line like before...
the steering response is much more instant,
I even flew over TRAIN TRACK without feeling much of the bump,
while before I easily bottom up the standard suspension !!!
the car dive and squat much less,
You also can feel the contour of the street, you know what the car is doing!

not to mention,
The car also looks so much better now...

Still
I want to remind you that
since this Bilstein use progressive spring,
there is still some body roll if you corner hard.

This is because initially the spring rate of a progressive spring is softer so you can have a comfortable ride but tighten up when you corner (lean) hard...
a stiff linear spring would have less body roll but then when you drive straight, it will always be firm.

To solve this small body roll problem,

I will put Spoon Front Sway Bar (and later Progressive Rear Sway Bar when I install my JDM Rear Axle with Disk Brake whenever that will be hahaha)...

The sway bar will surely make the car corner much more flat yet
when we drive at straight road,
the car will still be comfortable because of the progressive style spring.
Of course I will reserve my final verdict on the difference the sway bar will make until after I install it...

Please remember that this Bilstein is PERFECT for Road Use,
but for you who want to track your car,
I think the spring rate is still NOT firm enough.
I mean it is stiff for occasional week end track fun day,
but make no mistake, it is NOT race car stiff type !

This Bilstein is also NOT adjustable,
(meaning the shocks can not be made harder in damping and can not be made stronger in rebound)

but of course on the other hand,
I would not want to adjust this Bilstein any further for my street use application since this is already PERFECT for the street.

You know, for this price of $1,103 from TireRack
https://www.tirerack.com/suspension/...oModClar=Sport

I really think there will be no other suspension out there that can match the PERFECT balance between Ride and Performance for STREET use against this Bilstein for Honda Fit application !

From it's spec, the Mugen suspension might had an even more comfortable ride with softer spring rate compare to this Bilstein, but that also mean the Mugen suspension will have more body roll, (less control) than the Bilstein...

Bilstein might not be adjustable, it might not have the perfect linearity of a linear suspension, it is also not the cheapest for sure,
but
if you want your Honda to ride like a much more expensive car, like an AMG Mercedes or BMW Alpina,
then this is the suspension for you !

Perhaps since Bilstein is Made in Germany that is why the ride is typical of German Car.

Anyway, if you read every post/comment at this forum from every people who buy this Bilstein coil over, you (at least me) will not find a single owner of this Bilstein who was disappointed with their purchase,

Check other post about other brand of coil over and you will find both positive and negative comment from the ride too soft, too bouncy or to stiff,...
but check every Bilstein post, and so far I had not found anybody who is not satisfy with their Bilstein purchase.

so I guess I am NOT alone in feeling satisfy with this Bilstein coil over !

Here is several pictures of my car Before Bilstein,
After Bilstein but too low at the front,
and then Final Height with Bilstein after I raise the front a bit:

Ok here is BEFORE Bilstein (but already with Bilstein Sticker hahaha),
again this is BEFORE I install Bilstein, but I already install the sticker :rotfl:
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps7740e393.jpg

http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps49272b0f.jpg

http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf32b7dac.jpg

http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa83613af.jpghttp://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6cc13b51.jpg




Now this is AFTER Bilstein but the front is still too low and it rubs :

http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5319c788.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps045b83dc.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd77d5417.jpghttp://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps8613e7af.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...psac4f8852.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...psfe587e83.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...psb05180bf.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps647d253f.jpg



Last Set of Pictures is AFTER I RAISE the Front Suspension, now the car had almost the same gap to fender both front and rear, PERFECT for me :

http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps889144ca.jpg





http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps72ab70b7.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5eb709a7.jpg



http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps34bf3dc1.jpg



http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps177d44c5.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6865504f.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps464da71b.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps796f76c7.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...psac8c1ba1.jpg


http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...psc8e16d00.jpg

You're not the first to mention the "German-like" handling after installing the Bilsteins, which is good news to me. Great review... exactly what I'm looking for... :thumbups:

I can't wait for your review with both sway bars installed.

Congrat's Alpina, great purchase! :vtec:

The car is turning out REALLY nice, i'm impressed :thumbups:

I think i'm going to copy your suspension actually, kind of sold me on it. Did you do the Progress rear sway bar yet?

Looks goo bro :)

Ok, first of all to Wafulz,
I just send you an SMS :)
If your son already born, then congratulations to you and your wife :)

Second, to Wanderer, Thank You for your compliment and kind words,
I think and hopefully I am a "decent" sales person :), so I can convince you to buy Bilstein :),
unfortunately, I don't work for Bilstein, so I don't get commission on this one hahaha :)
and about the Progress sway bar, I was planning to do it later,
but now after I just return from installing my Spoon sway bar, I think I want to do it sooner... please stay tune :)

and to FitStir,
I am itching to wrote a full review because I just install my Front Spoon Sway Bar and I Just finish alignment too,
but I am so tired now, I need to take shower and drink some coke (coca cola not cocain) hahaha...
I will write about it later tonight :)

Ok, here is my Front Spoon Sway Bar and Alignment Review:

At first I want to go to WestEnd Alignment but I heard they are so busy you got to make several week appointment in advance,
and I don't want to wait several more week, so then
I try to search for other good Alignment place that also accept installing sway bar.
I find a good place using Yelp,
it is Lee's Alignment in Gardena.
Here is the link to their website and their Yelp Page:
Lee's Alignment & Brake Service - Gardena, CA
Alignment and Brake Service Gardena, CA

I email them and they response, so I call them yesterday to make appointment.

First of all, all the Perfect 5 stars review on Yelp were CORRECT !
I am very happy with their service.
It is a mom and pop business,
the person who install my sway bar and align my car is the son of the owner himself. His name is Matt.
Matt is a young and very friendly person.
He always answer all my detailed questions with the same enthusiasm from start to finish with clarity.
Well, as usual, if you got your work done by the owner of the shop (or the son of the owner) most likely you get the best result possible because
it is their own company :)

Please remember that they do NOT use those fancy digital or laser alignment machine (like Hunter brand machine),
but all they use is an old school camber and caster measurement tool...
but again it is not the machine but it is the operator who make a difference in the quality of the alignment.
I already knew about this so I am NOT surprise at all,
in fact I specifically choose this place because somehow, I have a feeling that I will be satisfy with their service by reading the review on the yelp page. and I have to say they are better then what I expected in term of customer service and quality of work !

The swaybar installation itself was VERY HARD,
I start the installation on 11am friday, and my car finish at over 5pm !!!
(well there is 1 hour lunch break, but yeah it is hard to install),
especially since this is the first time Matt ever install a sway bar on a Honda Fit.
But despite all the difficulties (I was standing by his side all the time so I know it is hard), he never lose his patience and keep working with happy attitude !!!

The shop give 6 months warranty for the alignment.

My car initially had - 1.75 camber from my own adjustment with the 2 SPC camber bolt when I install the Bilstein.

After several adjustment with the SPC bolt, (and adjusting the suspension arm with a good ol shake hahaha),
Matt manage to get -2.25 for the LEFT front wheel,
and -2.5 for the RIGHT front wheel, but to make it even,
he readjust the RIGHT front wheel back to -2.25.

The reason why we could not go much further camber (not that I want more negative camber) was because the suspension arm hit the shock/strut surface so it could not go more than -2.5...
if we need to do more, we could always grind the back of the suspension arm... but I don't want too much negative camber anyway...
all I want is enough negative camber so my tire won't rub the fender again,
and with -2.25, I figure (from naked eye) that it had clear the fender,
and damn I am RIGHT :) hahaha

The caster is NOT adjustable in our car, but just for info, our caster is 3.5.

and the Toe was too much inside after I lower the car, so Matt bring back the Toe to just 0.0625 (COMBINE) just a little bit of Toe In to help directional stability. When adjusting the Toe, Matt had to took several
adjustment and test drive to make it perfect, and he did this with smile even though the shop were almost close (with his father also still working on other customer car too)... I mean if this were other shop, the worker might be anxious to go home because it is already almost 5pm,
but when you are the owner of the shop, of course you will not care about
closing time, and more care about getting your customer car ready :)

Ok, back to the Spoon sway bar,
it came with NEW END LINK and NEW Rubber Bushing.
The Rubber Bushing from Spoon is for 25mm bar,
while the factory sway bar only had 21mm diameter.
The New End Link were needed because the Spoon sway bar is shorter in
overall length compare to the factory,
so the End Link from Spoon had the 2 bolts facing opposite of each other,
while the factory end link had their 2 bolts facing the same side.

What I notice was, the factory sway bar feel much smaller when you grab it with your hand and it is also much lighter compare to Spoon.

Now, review time...

When I drive from my place to the alignment shop, I had to take about 25 miles of freeway drive.
My car with Bilstein feel much better than stock, but there are some strange feeling on the steering, it is kinda heavy and the rear suspension
still wander just a little bit (much less compare to when it was stock suspension).
Again I had to remind you that my wheel is 18in and my tire is 225,
so that make the rear stock suspension unable to "control" the extra grip from the tire and the extra weight from the wheel/tire...
so my car tend to do some weird fishtailing when I hit an uneven freeway surface (not same surface between what under the left and right tire)...
this usually happen around over 70mph on rough freeway...
With Bilstein, this is ALMOST gone but it is still there...
Before alignment the car did track straight true, but it feel there is some struggle between left and right front tire competing to make the car
track straight...

After alignment and after sway bar,
the Fish Tailing is even less, but again it is still just tiny tiny bit there...
so I think I can solve this with Progress rear sway bar,
because the way Progress bolted to the rear axle, not only it stabilize the sway, but it also act as an extra BRACE for increase rigidity of the rear axle.
I think this will eliminate the fish tail,
but in the future I also plan to buy Spoon Rear Rigid Collar to further eliminate any flex between the rear bushing and the chassis mounting point for rear axle...

What I really notice after alignment and after Front Sway bar is,
First, the steering became much lighter as if the left and right front tire do not compete again to make the car track straight, I guess I was having too much toe in before.
The -2.25 negative camber also make the tire had slightly less contact patch when driving straight, so this could also the cause for lighter steering.

Second, the car track even truer and as I had said above less fishtailing/ less nervousness but there is still a trace of it because I think my wheel and tire are simply have too much grip and too much weight for the stock rear axle to handle, so yeah, I need that Progress rear sway bar and later Spoon rigid collar.

Third, the ride became even FIRMER, yes some people said that sway bar not suppose to change the firmness of the ride when we drive straight,
but I think this is NOT true. In our case, the ride indeed became firmer,
because when you hit a bump, most likely you only hit them one front wheel at a time, and that cause only one wheel move up/down and this
do activate the sway bar.
There is a reason why some high end car (I think Panamera Porsche) had a sway bar than can be electronically disconnected when the car run straight and connected again when the car start turn into a corner...
because sway bar do effect ride quality.
so yes the Spoon Front Sway bar does make the Bilstein a tad firmer,
so it is not as comfortable as before, but let me put it this way,
before Sway bar, the Bilstein ride was like an AMG Mercedes or BMW Alpina ride, after sway bar, the Bilstein ride was like BMW M Model ride :)

I do prefer the BMW Alpina ride compare to the BMW M Model ride because I am old now hahaha,...
but hey, a BMW M Model ride is not bad at all :)

A side bonus is of course, the car now have almost MUCH LESS BODY ROLL, in fact in some corner the car now feel eerie because my brain was train to expect the car to sway in the corner, but the car just stay almost flat out..., I expect with the future addition of the rear progress bar,
the car will be even flatter !!!

oh, and some weird bonus is, the car now have even less dive during braking.. this I don't know why, but maybe because the car had more negative camber now, so the surface area of the tire is less when you brake straight... well I don't know why but hey, less dive is good right ? :)

Turn in and lane change maneuver is also more direct and instant,
so the Spoon Front Sway Bar really work,
it really make our car drive and corner much flatter !

so in summary, the comfortable ride is not as perfect as before front sway bar, but the handling is now even better than without sway bar.
I would say the increase in handling do justify the very slight decrease in the comfort. :D

The future Progress Rear Sway Bar, I think will not make the car drive much harsher though because it is at the rear suspension,
so most likely me as the driver won't feel a reduction in comfort although my wife might hahaha....
but I really need to install Progress Rear Sway Bar if I want to completely eliminate the very very very small slight fish tail when the freeway is not smooth.

so future suspension modification will be:
1. Progress Rear Sway Bar
2. Spoon Rigid Collar (rear only, I don't want the front because I don't see it effect much for the front beside a little bit of wiggle room at the front is good for making some alignment changes in the future)
3. Cusco 4 point chassis/subframe bar
4. T1R 2 point lower frame bar (if I can get a new one from AJ Racing or somehow a used one is for sale)
That is it,
I don't think I want to install Front Upper Strut Bar anymore cause
I see the way Cusco mount, it will mount just one bolt per side and it also have hinges so I think the micro movement from the one bolt mounting point flex and the hinges would negate any reinforcement effect.
If the Front Upper Strut bar mount with at least 2 bolts per side, and also without any hinges then I will believe it at increase rigidity, but then
this solid design would make it hard to install and also to take out when you need to do work on the engine/air filter or fill up the brake fluid...
so no Front Upper Strut bar for me,...
For Rear Upper strut bar and C pillar bar, well, it either need modification to the plastic panel or it make the rear seat not reclining fully,
or it is dangerous to hit head if the car ever had rear accident,
or I see that the mounting point is also not on a very solid place...
so again no rear upper strut bar and rear c pillar for me...

That is all for today,
will do more review about suspension after I buy the 4 items I listed above... (whenever I had extra budget though hahaha) :rotfl:

Whew that is a nice long complete review good work.

Few days ago, I finally cured the last clear coat of paint on the caliper so the rear caliper cosmetic finish is done.

I also had bought several set of special brake line wrench and brake bleeding wrench,

and,
Now that I had installed better (firmer and less weight transfer) suspension,
I can start thinking of the next step to be done to complete this conversion.

Here are the list of steps (baby steps :) ):
a. Buy Special Tools and Honda Civic Si Caliper Seal Kits from Honda Dealer so I can rebuilt by Rear Brake Caliper myself
b. Buy either 12.19in TheBrakeMan Scalloped rotor (still in back order so had to wait), or if I am not patient, I can just buy the regular 12in Wilwood Drilled Rotor
c. Make the mock up for the Brake Caliper Bracket to accommodate this larger rear rotor using plywood/mdf
d. Bring that mock up bracket to machine shop so they can machine the real bracket using either aluminum or stainless steel as the material,
and also make a hubcentric ring for the wilwood rotor hat since it have
slightly larger hub holes then my RS hubs.
e. Buy Strong Grade 9 or Grade 10 bolts to attached the bracket and caliper to the rear axle
f. Buy several new Honda bolts and clips to attached the rear axle to chassis/shocks etc because according to Honda, I got to replace this bolts every time I took the bolt off (one time used bolt only)
g. Buy Spoon Rigid Collar to make sure there is less flex on the rear axle bushing and the chassis mounting (had to order this from either Rakuten/Amazon Japan)
h. Buy longer parking brake cable from 2013 Honda Civic Si (older model Si use different kind of end connector from the cable to the caliper so got to use the latest model parking brake cable).
I need to buy new parking brake cable since the larger rotor make the old parking brake cable don't fit anymore.
i. Buy Brake Bleeding tools
j. Buy many bottles of Motul Dot 5.1 brake fluid
k. Buy Goodridge brake line for USDM Honda Fit (kit with 4 lines) and then
buy another 2 custom Goodridge longer brake line to connect between
the rear most hard pipe brake line to the rear brake caliper.
That custom brake line will also require some extra banjo adaptor and banjo bolt. I had figure out every part from Goodridge to built this custom brake line, so all I had to do is just buy all the part.
l. after I had all the above, then I can choose whether I want to risk installing the large rear rotor brake right away, or use the standard JDM RS rear rotor first until I can have budget to buy the front Brembo conversion...
I think I want to risk using the larger disk brake right away, since the rear oem brake caliper is so tiny, it should not hat too much brake bias change compare to stock one... but I will decide later when I already have the rear larger rotor on my hand.

Among all the above, the complicated step to do is going to be the process of making the rear brake caliper bracket...
well it is not really hard, but I just had to be very precise in measuring...

come to think of it, the hardest part is actually coming out with the budget for the FRONT Brembo conversion...(at least $4,000 with custom bracket since the Brembo for Subaru BR-Z 6 piston 14in kit run around $3,500) I hope I can manage that asap :)

oh, I forgot, I also need to find a larger master cylinder (1in diameter) so my pedal travel will be back to normal,
otherwise I can just bought the J's Racing larger master cylinder but then I still have to modified the front hard brake pipe from the larger master cylinder to the VSA actuator.

hmmm...
I already feel tired just making this list,...
I am sure I will more tired doing all the above hahaha :D

so please be patient with this project since it will involve a lot of "baby step" hahaha :rotfl:

Sounds like you are in the final stages as to parts I just came across this you probably already seen it.

Honda Jazz (08~up) Rear Big Brake Kit

Hi,
Thanks for the info, I haven't seen that web site...
so
I just check the website you gave me,
and those are Taiwanese made big brake kit.

I worry about the quality, reliability and
the availability of parts (brake pads, seal kit and rotors) for their kits in the future cause I plan to keep my car for as long as it last.

As nice as their caliper looks its, I think for the rear brake I better stick with the ugly tiny 1 piston Honda OEM rear caliper since it's reliability is proven and it's parts availability are guaranteed :)

and for rotors, I better stick with either Wilwood or TheBrakeMan since
both of them can use Wilwood hat and although TheBrakeMan is smaller company then wilwood, but just in case in the future I have a hard time
getting new TheBrakeMan rotor, I can just use the Wilwood one with the Wilwood hat, and only slight modification to the caliper bracket will be required (to adjust the diameter from 12.19in rotor to 12in rotor)...

Actually Wilwood also make a scalloped 12.19in rotor, but I think Wilwood rotor for that design is not strong enough for daily street application...

That Taiwanese design also need an extra actuator parts for retaining the parking brake function,
and if you take a closer looks at the picture of that actuator parts (they called in linelock or something...),
it add another valve connected by banjo bolts to the caliper...
I worry if this part malfunction or seized, it could make the rear caliper lock up...

Also they use a large 4 piston caliper at the rear while my original caliper is the tiniest 1 piston Honda OEM caliper...
so this might change the brake bias even more to the rear and I think this is dangerous since our Honda Fit rear
is a bit "lose" and light...

I mean for the front, I won't hesitate to use a 6 piston Brembo caliper with 14in rotor,
but for the rear, I will be more careful in selecting the brake caliper...
actually by changing my future rear brake to 12.19in rotor, that already significantly change the brake bias,
that is why I think I better install them after I install the front big brake kit...
but my future rear brake will be using the tiny OEM Honda 1 piston sliding caliper so it will not be
as powerful as this kit from the taiwan company... meaning it will not as easy to lock up
as that Taiwan company big brake kit would...
so the Honda caliper should be better for my rear brake application.

not to mention the original Honda rotor is a solid design (non vented),
and I think those Taiwan kit with a 4 piston caliper will be a much heavier VENTED rotor,
which again will be too much for the rear suspension to handle...
The wilwood or thebrakeman rotor that I plan to buy are SOLID (non vented) design, so they will be
as light as the original Honda solid rotor but with larger diameter size.