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Studdering between 2000 and 2500 RPMs

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Old Jul 28, 2021 | 07:53 PM
  #1  
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Studdering between 2000 and 2500 RPMs

It’s studderind at normal driving RPM can only drive it hard. New plugs new coil packs I’m thinking VVT solenoid
 
Old Jul 28, 2021 | 08:10 PM
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I had the VVT issue. No stuttering, just the rattle.

I'm thinking you have the fuel injector issue
 
Old Jul 28, 2021 | 09:16 PM
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I put fuel injector cleaner in it it made no difference
 
Old Jul 28, 2021 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mcluvin81
I put fuel injector cleaner in it it made no difference
No, you need to replace them.
Cleaner won't do anything to fix this issue.

That's like attempting to fix a cracked windshield with a new set of wipers.
 
Old Jul 28, 2021 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by BMWguy22
No, you need to replace them.
Cleaner won't do anything to fix this issue.

That's like attempting to fix a cracked windshield with a new set of wipers.
A new set is almost $900 Is it something I can clean myself
 
Old Jul 28, 2021 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mcluvin81
A new set is almost $900 Is it something I can clean myself
Who said they were dirty?

There's countless threads on this and google on the subject.
Once you do a little digging, I'm sure you'll find your answer
 
Old Jul 28, 2021 | 10:26 PM
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Everyone says coil packs or spark plugs o’Reillys said it could be the vvt solenoid But I don’t think that’s it. It only drives well at 2500 RPMs or above No rough idle no stuttering at high rpm’s
 
Old Jul 29, 2021 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mcluvin81
Everyone says coil packs or spark plugs o’Reillys said it could be the vvt solenoid But I don’t think that’s it. It only drives well at 2500 RPMs or above No rough idle no stuttering at high rpm’s
upload a video of the noise to youtube or something. from the initial description of the problem there's a lot left to be desired:
+ when was the last oil change? (filters etc)
+ how many miles?
+ why are you pouring fuel injector cleaner into it?!stop putting random crap in it!!

idk.. maybe it's just normal honda noise? however, a video would help.
 
Old Jul 30, 2021 | 12:31 PM
  #9  
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What brand of coils and wires did you use. Quality coils matter and they cost money. I've seen many failures on other brands early when cheap Amazon (offbrand) and ebay specials are used. Typically you see failures above 4-6 K RPM. Swap back the old coils/wires one by one to eliminate the source. (or take those back and get quality ones from Denso, OEM, and the like).
 
Old Jul 30, 2021 | 10:48 PM
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My '15 has a slight hesitation right at 2200 rpm, think it's a software/engine control issue, is known on here, and is minor.....we have the 6 spd manual, and if you accelerate hard enough, unnoticeable.... definitely in 1st, .have noticed it occasionally in 2nd........it is what it is, and it's no big deal.....floor it, never notice it - dunno if this presents with a CVT
 
Old Jul 31, 2021 | 02:59 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Fuelish
My '15 has a slight hesitation right at 2200 rpm, think it's a software/engine control issue, is known on here, and is minor.....we have the 6 spd manual, and if you accelerate hard enough, unnoticeable.... definitely in 1st, .have noticed it occasionally in 2nd........it is what it is, and it's no big deal.....floor it, never notice it - dunno if this presents with a CVT
Has there been any updates?

My 2016 is also stick and I'm experiencing the same issue despite running prem. fuel etc.
Come to think of it, I think I've been having these issues since purchase last year.
 
Old Jul 31, 2021 | 08:33 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by BMWguy22
Has there been any updates?

My 2016 is also stick and I'm experiencing the same issue despite running prem. fuel etc.
Come to think of it, I think I've been having these issues since purchase last year.
No idea, from what I've read, Honda says it's "normal" (of course they do...heh). I just accelerate quickly in first and fly through it, and rev up high enough so that when I shift up, second gear is already above 2200 rpm, and I've never really noticed it in higher gears.. I dunno....but it gives me an excuse to be rev happy, and I still get great gas mileage
 
Old Aug 3, 2021 | 12:44 PM
  #13  
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My 2020 6 speed does the same exact thing. Between 1500 and 2150 RPM, the air and fuel don't mix well inside the combustion chamber, resulting in poor combustion. Driving in those RPM ranges also gives you worse power and fuel efficiency. Seriously. At 40 mph, if I drive my Fit in 6th gear at 1950 RPM, my scangauge will tell me 37-40 MPG instantaneous. If I downshift to 4th and keep the RPM at 2500, it will report that I'm getting 44-47 MPG.

Once I discovered this, I started shifting at much higher RPMs (I keep my RPM over 2200 unless I'm going a constant speed under 27 mph) and I saw no MPG degradation whatsoever. It also has the side effect of completely eliminating the jerky-stuttery-bucking acceleration that I would feel on a cold engine in 2nd and 3rd gear between 1500 and 2200 RPM. It was like getting a new car when I "figured out how to drive it".

I up shift at 16, 27, 36, 44, and 50 MPH. Downshift if it goes under 2200 RPM. I hope this helps you. If you have an automatic, I honestly can't say very much since I haven't driven one, but I would drive in L if you don't have paddle shifters, or drive in S and use paddle shifters if you have them.

Edit: There's nothing wrong with your car. The Honda Fit isn't your uncle's F150. You're obliged to rev it high. It wants to rev, it's happy to rev, and to be honest, it'll probably last longer if you let it rev. It'll make you, the driver, happier too if you let it rev.
 

Last edited by Chugiak76; Aug 3, 2021 at 12:57 PM.
Old Aug 3, 2021 | 07:21 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Chugiak76
My 2020 6 speed does the same exact thing. Between 1500 and 2150 RPM, the air and fuel don't mix well inside the combustion chamber, resulting in poor combustion. Driving in those RPM ranges also gives you worse power and fuel efficiency. Seriously. At 40 mph, if I drive my Fit in 6th gear at 1950 RPM, my scangauge will tell me 37-40 MPG instantaneous. If I downshift to 4th and keep the RPM at 2500, it will report that I'm getting 44-47 MPG.

Once I discovered this, I started shifting at much higher RPMs (I keep my RPM over 2200 unless I'm going a constant speed under 27 mph) and I saw no MPG degradation whatsoever. It also has the side effect of completely eliminating the jerky-stuttery-bucking acceleration that I would feel on a cold engine in 2nd and 3rd gear between 1500 and 2200 RPM. It was like getting a new car when I "figured out how to drive it".

I up shift at 16, 27, 36, 44, and 50 MPH. Downshift if it goes under 2200 RPM. I hope this helps you. If you have an automatic, I honestly can't say very much since I haven't driven one, but I would drive in L if you don't have paddle shifters, or drive in S and use paddle shifters if you have them.

Edit: There's nothing wrong with your car. The Honda Fit isn't your uncle's F150. You're obliged to rev it high. It wants to rev, it's happy to rev, and to be honest, it'll probably last longer if you let it rev. It'll make you, the driver, happier too if you let it rev.
Yes 2200 rpm seems tp be the offensive spot........I just take it up to 4000rpm before shifting, just blow through it in 1st (manual) and everything "falls into place" at higher rpms on subsequent shifts.....have gotten used to it, still getting close to 40 mpg in town here....must be the summer gas, more like 36 maybe in winter
 
Old Aug 9, 2021 | 12:40 AM
  #15  
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I'm also dealing with this shitty stutter in between 1500 and 2800 rpm. If I'm under 3k rpm it's very noticeable. I'm gonna try and figure out what the issue is. Going to swap coil packs and plugs. If that doesn't work gonna do a valve adjustment. Of that doesn't work gonna replace the fuel injectors. If that doesn't work gonna end up doing the vtc actuator and a new chain.
 
Old Aug 9, 2021 | 05:32 AM
  #16  
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I've learned to take it as a feature. Dealer diagnostics didn't find anything. It appears like most L15Bx engined Fit/Jazz has some studdering around that rpm range, some individual cars more some less depending on component tolerances.

I don't know if that is the same phenomenon, but in some other thread member Bassguitarist1985 provided this feasible explanation:
"This is how the ECM is programmed. It will always default to a lean burn until called upon for more power, either first by throttle position then rpm. The stumble caused when the engine goes from lean to ideal fuel/air ratio, the few cycles transitioning from each mix is when this stumble happens." It feels like sometimes ECM cannot decide which mode to use.
 

Last edited by TnTkr; Aug 9, 2021 at 05:43 AM.
Old Aug 9, 2021 | 07:19 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by TnTkr
I've learned to take it as a feature. Dealer diagnostics didn't find anything. It appears like most L15Bx engined Fit/Jazz has some studdering around that rpm range, some individual cars more some less depending on component tolerances.

I don't know if that is the same phenomenon, but in some other thread member Bassguitarist1985 provided this feasible explanation:
"This is how the ECM is programmed. It will always default to a lean burn until called upon for more power, either first by throttle position then rpm. The stumble caused when the engine goes from lean to ideal fuel/air ratio, the few cycles transitioning from each mix is when this stumble happens." It feels like sometimes ECM cannot decide which mode to use.
my '19 lx 6smt will do it in 1st if i am not careful coming off the clutch , seems to need just the right RPM and just the right amount of clutch let out . the car has an AEM intake
set up and an after market axle back exhaust . yea , i think it's an ECM mapping issue . curious thing though , for a brief time i had an after market " B" pipe on the car , same diameter
as the medalian exhaust , and problem was basically gone . no problems coming off the clutch . i put the old pipe back on , the droning was way too much and , also i did not like the way it felt
at higher RPM . i've gotten better with the clutch but still every now and then i get that little hiccup thing in first , and i've been driving a clutch for the last 40 years
 
Old Aug 18, 2021 | 07:24 AM
  #18  
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Just replaced spark plugs in my gk5 and noticed all the stumbling below 3k has stopped entirely. Only had 50k miles when I did the change but the plugs had definitely opened up the gap a bit and the part throttle pickup has definitely improved everywhere in the rpm range and it actually somewhat has power below vtec engagement now
 
Old Aug 18, 2021 | 12:43 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Lhoswald
Just replaced spark plugs in my gk5 and noticed all the stumbling below 3k has stopped entirely. Only had 50k miles when I did the change but the plugs had definitely opened up the gap a bit and the part throttle pickup has definitely improved everywhere in the rpm range and it actually somewhat has power below vtec engagement now
This is VERY promising news!
Anyone else do a plug change and notice the same improvement?
 
Old Aug 18, 2021 | 12:57 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by BMWguy22
This is VERY promising news!
Anyone else do a plug change and notice the same improvement?
I'm about to. I'm waiting to get new coilpacks as well and thrn going to do both at the same time. Probably overkill but I always replace coilpacks at around 120k
 



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