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that explains why the Fits with a regular key dont have this issue.
Agreed, I don't have the fancy key setup.
I figure that's another reason why the conventional key setup is more reliable (long term) than the push button start.
Agreed, I don't have the fancy key setup.
I figure that's another reason why the conventional key setup is more reliable (long term) than the push button start.
Whoa, I just took a look at the new 2024 Honda Fit coming and it looks like they changed the battery and the form. Can anybody find out??
Agreed, I don't have the fancy key setup.
I figure that's another reason why the conventional key setup is more reliable (long term) than the push button start.
Key starts have their own problems.
Ignition will wear out.
Key will wear out.
If you by mistake because you're in a hurry don't fully insert the key into the ignition you can bend or even snap the key.
If you by mistake because you're in a hurry don't fully insert the key into the ignition you can bend or even snap the key.
Sure, but those wear out issues appear decade or two later and usually don't prevent you driving.
Never heard anybody breaking the key in ignition lock. More often in frozen door lock.
Key starts have their own problems.
Ignition will wear out.
Key will wear out.
If you by mistake because you're in a hurry don't fully insert the key into the ignition you can bend or even snap the key.
Tell that to my 35 year old BMW with it's (still fully functioning) original ignition lock cylinder and keys.
I did have the recall issue that was fixed for free through the Honda Dealer I go for all my maintenance work. Since then it's worked flawlessly with Zero problems.
My next car whatever that will be will be a Push Button start. No more Key start ignition for me if available.
I love the Push Button start.
I did have the recall issue that was fixed for free through the Honda Dealer I go for all my maintenance work. Since then it's worked flawlessly with Zero problems.
As long as it makes you happy, that's all that matters.
Why don't you post some pics of your ride? I don't think I've seen it before.
Well... I'm surprised that this tread is still going.
Just my honest thoughts and in this reply... I kind of doubt that a lawsuit would stick because there are too many X factors in the scenario to solely point the blame.
I (and likely a good chunk of the forum's community) will happily try to point you in the right direction to try and help get your concern resolved so you can enjoy your Fits;. HOWEVER with all due respect, I do NOT give consent to use my post in a court of law if you attempt to pursue a lawsuit.
Between misdiagnosis - Be it a genuinely difficult intermittent issue to troubleshoot, lacking the proper test equipped, inexperience or willful negligence (not following troubleshooting procedure) on the tech's behalf.
Vehicle storage - Alarm active to shut down modules, smart key fob left in car or taken out (it WILL be sensed and draw current while waiting for a key cycle request), auxiliary electrical devices plugged in and on (like the current trend of dealer added GPS trackers).
Going from personal experience, my 2008 GD3 Sport (while yes being an older more analog Fit with the factory alternator still) and usually sits for a week or two at a time doesn't have charging issues BUT has had issues with the OE Honda batteries supplied by Interstate developing bad cells. In fact, there was a brief stint were OE Honda batteries were falling left and right (at least in my area) around late 2016/early 2017 to early 2018 time frame if memory serves me right. I was going through one every 18 to 24 months going from rough memory, still within the 100% warranty of the initial battery in that time frame.
Following that, in my family fleet we also had a Japan 2017 GK5 EX CVT that was given to two siblings for them to go back and forth to local colleges. In the 5 years and 5 months of us having it for just under 55k miles and me maintaining it, the factory battery finally gave up the ghost about 4.5 years of service at 48k miles (which 3 to 5 years of service is common in my area). The first 42k miles got packed quick due to the distances the kiddos had to drive... Following 3 years of double drivers, one of the two became the sole driver of the car but still seen mostly highway trips. The final year or so of the car's service, it mostly sat days almost a week or so at a time since they acquired a job were they worked primarily from home. It was then the battery started showing its age when the car sat closer towards that week mark and finally failed to start after I did an oil change on it was trying to start the car.
Yes... The smart key fob remained inside the car (and all doors unlocked but closed, only hood open) during that service. No loads were on during that 35 minute oil change and tire rotation but I did note that the 12 volt battery tested weak but good before even putting the lift arms under the car to service it.
Originally Posted by Reddogs
I think its a combination of OEM battery is undersized, and the Honda battery is a base level battery so doesnt last long. As for the way I use it, I ran them at first with little problem because I used them every day long distance to work in mine the 2016, and a good distance for my wife in the 2015. But once she retired the problem began on the 2015 as it was used only 2 to 3 times a week, then I retired, and the problem immeadiately showed up on mine even though I ran it more per week taking care of farm and machinery. So if its not run every day, it seems to go down from some reason, and nobody has figured it out. I suspect the weak/smaller battery not holding a charge or something along that line..
Fits are equipped with an electronic load detection system that both vary the charge rate or lack-thereof while driving. If the system does not see battery voltage drop below threshold "X" after initially seeing an adequate source voltage from the 12V battery, the system will not charge. Similar goes with a system load, if high beams are not active or you do not have enough of a load on the vehicle's system such as combo of A/C, exterior lights and/or the system sensing a low source voltage, again it will not charge. Of course finally, if the system does not have an long enough drive cycle and sees frequent short trips the battery will be a discharged state.
Also note, a battery with a bad cell(s) can of course be jump started and may hold a partial, temporary charge... but it will not hold it for long once the vehicle is shut off.
Each cell in our 12 volt 151r batteries is about 2 volts. Usually the little Fit sees 10.8 or less source voltage, it will struggle to start and you MIGHT get lucky to fire the engine off the first or second time.
Originally Posted by Reddogs
Is it the OEM or a DIEHARD, DURCELL, etc...?
Interstate is the OE battery supplier.
In response to the quote below, I'll chime in my thoughts individually within the quote in bold text.
Originally Posted by Reddogs
True, but I am finding this mainly on the line of the 3rd Gen models, so there seems to be a underlying issue that Honda is not addressing.
Here are a few which seem very familiar to what I am seeing...
"Has anyone else had battery issues with a new Honda Fit?I have a 2019 with about 12k miles, bought new less than 2 years ago. Don't drive much due to COVID hitting not long after getting it. I've had the battery die on me 4 times. I took it to the dealer the first time when it was new, they said it must have had something left on as the battery and alternator checked out. I've called triple AAA twice as it happened when we were on vacations. Each time AAA has checked the battery and says it has good health. Now it died again sitting in my garage after driving it a week ago. I'm trickle charging it overnight. Nothing left on. Any ideas? Should I just get a new battery? Is this a warranty issue and I should bother the dealer again?"
Going by this, the owner at that time drove a range of about 115.4 (if 24 months) to 153.8 (if 18 months) miles a week. No mention of trim level or storage method other than it sitting in the garage... Not much to go with on this besides the car sitting. Need more details.
Math formula used for that range is below.
12,000 miles / 104 weeks (24 months) = 115.384 miles per week
12,000 miles / 78 (18 months) = 153.846 miles per week
Failure Date: 03/18/2020I purchased my new vehicle February 2020. These are my electronic vehicle issues: 1) my battery dies when left for several hours with no electronics left on and no after market add on equipment. 2) electronic display looses touch functionality. Battery disconnect restores. 3) radio presets change to channels I would not select. I think a hacker has compromised the gps or cellular phone factory power/connect attachment. These issue stop when the vehicle looses view of the sky. Ie. , metal roof garage. Attached volt meter and vehicle has severe electrical drain for normal 14. 4 to 12. 2 volts. This is variable and unrelated to heavy power draining equipment like "rear window defroster. " electrical system normally drops momentarily during factory equipment initial turn on but quickly returns to 14. 4 volts. At various times while driving, system voltage will remain at 12. 2 volts with no user electrical equipment change. Possible suspect within law enforcement reports. Law enforcement reports: russell cty al 19sl06902, 18sl12031, 19sl06910 lee cty al 1906-2823, 1810-2196."
Interesting scenario... but no details on the trim itself and driving frequencies/habits. After scrolling down and finding that you attached the rest of the individual's comments, I copy and pasted them here. Also notice the voltage readings they mention correlate with my system load comment above.
Now the mention of temporarily disconnecting the battery resolves the issue raises an eyebrow. There is a possibility that it could be a one push start car either having a keyless access system fault be it the keyless access unit itself or in the preface lift cars the one push start button which can be replaced under a warranty extension if the vehicle meets the prerequisites.
I've also seen some folk either; A) Leave the vehicle in gear then command the vehicle off (multiple rapid button presses, you will hear chiming before the engine shuts down), which keeps the key cycle in accessory mode (common with elder folk, respectfully speaking of course). B) Have a battery with a bad cell prevent the vehicle from starting. OR C) Have a control module not go to "sleep" due to internal fault and being commanded on/awake. Leaving the key in a one push start/smart key car can do this while it is unlocked since it is waiting for a key cycle request to go to either accessory or start.
If you want to witness this then sit in the car and monitor the one push start button. It will illuminate then eventually darken. Once you press the brake or clutch pedal, the one push start button will light up again in anticipation of the key cycle request.
Following this, the mention of the issue stopping when the direct view of the sky is compromised is another interesting tidbit. I'd be questioning if the vehicle has some form of GPS tracker installed by either jumper cable to the car's DLC (Data Link Connector) or more than likely tapped/wired into the car causing radio interference and a system draw.
"Battery keeps dying
My fit battery is dying if it sits for 24hrs. I've had the battery tested twice this week and the alternator once; the auto parts store says that they are fine.
I've confirmed in a pitch black and silent garage that no lights are on anywhere in the car and that I hear nothing going on. I have a 2015 with a cd player and I do notice that the red light in the upper left hand corner blinks every two seconds or so (it could have done that before too and I never noticed).
I have 46k on the car and it is the original battery. I'm tempted to change the battery despite what the auto parts store tester says. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks!"
Again no mention of trim level, driving habit, or for certain security system armed/active as both the gauge cluster and radio both have red anti theft lights that flicker on the left side of them. Add to that, both of their lights are timed to flash after a short period. The security light in the gauge cluster is for certain on a 2 second loop. The radio's security light... I honestly do not recall at this time but is on a similarly short timed loop as well.
With that said, if a Fit of ANY generation looses battery voltage the radio will default into its locked state and ask for the security code(s) or unlock sequence. Until that radio is unlocked, that red security light will periodically flash on the radio. Even though we're lacking a time stamp for that event, I would not be surprised if a new battery solved the problem.
Originally Posted by Reddogs
Well, I took it to the local one since the dealers aren't saying anything, and the battery was at 9 volts, and would look like it was ready to start and show all displays but wouldn't turn over.
Sounds like a battery with a bad cell. Any recollection with this ordeal?
Originally Posted by Reddogs
Wow, it just continues.. The2016 Fit went dead on the Honda battery the dealer put in so finally gave up on the Honda battery thinking they might be too weak, and put in the Diehard battery. Guess what it went dead after hardly more than a few hundred miles, so it has to be a parasitic drain somewhere, but where and how to nail it down.
I'll address this and the following quote below in one go.
Originally Posted by Reddogs
Note what it says on the draw on Honda Fit..." parasitic power draw is when something is drawing current from your Honda Fit’s battery after you turn the vehicle off, like an interior light or a malfunctioning component. To fix this issue, you’ll need to test for a parasitic power draw. Here’s how:
Remove the negative cable from your Fit’s battery and use a multimeter to measure the draw. The draw should be less than 25 milliamps (0.025 amps). If it’s higher than that, then something is drawing current, and it must be addressed."
So it should be less than 25 milliamps (0.025 amps)., and mine was 60-70 milliamps (0.060-70 amps).with keys out of range, anybody see a problem, hmm.
Any shop be it dealership, Honda/Acura specialist, or 3rd party/private shop with an amp meter should be able to check for current draw. The hood has to be popped with the hood latch needs to be in the locked/closed/fully latched position along with the alarm armed.
Your procedure sounds like it maybe incorrect due to lacking information such as how long you waited before getting your readings. Capacitors in the electrical system may not have depleted yet as well as after a duration of about 5 to 10 minutes, all control units are supposed to be off and in their "sleep" state.
Redo your test, monitor for current draw for a period of about 5 to 10 minutes and update us with your findings. If you're seeing a reading of 0.050 amps or less after that time, then you're good. Ideally, you'll be well under 0.010 amps.
Originally Posted by Reddogs
Well, I figured it out. I took it to a battery shop and explained the problem, and they just couldnt believe it. One of the techs grabbed his instruments and went out right to the car and tested. When he finished he showed me right from the displays, and let me take pictures with my phone. The battery was the Honda 151r battery on the 2015 Honda Fit, and the tech told me it should not be draining more than .02 or .03 just sitting, and with the keyless entry or anywhere near the car it went to .7 to 8. With me taking the keys out of range it went to .06 to .07, which he said was going to weaken the battery to below starting level even if just sitting parked and the keys were out of range and calculated how long it would take. So from his calculations thats whats been happening, if I leave it sitting, it ends up somewhere below 10 volts and the lights come on but it will not start, or it goes below 9 volts and wont let me open the door. Took it to the Honda dealer and he claimed too full and no one could see it or even bring over tester to check it but I could set appointment. So I called and it will be a month out before they can bring it in...............
Eh... Maybe, maybe not. Did the individual follow the procedure that I mentioned above?
It may very well be a draw concern... BUT without following the correct diagnostic steps to get the system to shut down and troubleshoot appropriately, you'll likely get flawed results.
I've seen many of 3rd part facilities misdiagnose a faulty battery issue as an alternator by following the correct test procedure.
I've also seen keyless access units and body control modules cause the system to stick in either the "accessory" or "on" position.
Even seen one push start cars effected by the warranty extension (which both of your's is in range due to model year) can some times hang in the either "accessory" or "on" as well if the operator isn't paying attention before exiting the vehicle.On oddball occasions, there have some straggler 2015 and 2016 Fits having faulty alternators and starters as well.
So really, it's a little bit of a crap shoot without knowing the driving and parking routine with you and your spouse.
If you could provide details on what trims (LX, EX, EX-L) Fits you have, an idea of how they're driven in terms of frequency and trip duration to get a better idea of what's going on?
Also, when parked... Are they locked up in the garage with and keys in the house (or at least 10 feet from the car if Smart Key/One Push Start)? Do they sit unlocked in the garage with the smart key fob in the car or key in the ignition? Some folk in more secure or spaced out rural areas still do this honestly.
Well... I'm surprised that this tread is still going.
Just my honest thoughts and in this reply... I kind of doubt that a lawsuit would stick because there are too many X factors in the scenario to solely point the blame.
I (and likely a good chunk of the forum's community) will happily try to point you in the right direction to try and help get your concern resolved so you can enjoy your Fits;. HOWEVER with all due respect, I do NOT give consent to use my post in a court of law if you attempt to pursue a lawsuit.
Between misdiagnosis - Be it a genuinely difficult intermittent issue to troubleshoot, lacking the proper test equipped, inexperience or willful negligence (not following troubleshooting procedure) on the tech's behalf.
Vehicle storage - Alarm active to shut down modules, smart key fob left in car or taken out (it WILL be sensed and draw current while waiting for a key cycle request), auxiliary electrical devices plugged in and on (like the current trend of dealer added GPS trackers).
Going from personal experience, my 2008 GD3 Sport (while yes being an older more analog Fit with the factory alternator still) and usually sits for a week or two at a time doesn't have charging issues BUT has had issues with the OE Honda batteries supplied by Interstate developing bad cells. In fact, there was a brief stint were OE Honda batteries were falling left and right (at least in my area) around late 2016/early 2017 to early 2018 time frame if memory serves me right. I was going through one every 18 to 24 months going from rough memory, still within the 100% warranty of the initial battery in that time frame.
Following that, in my family fleet we also had a Japan 2017 GK5 EX CVT that was given to two siblings for them to go back and forth to local colleges. In the 5 years and 5 months of us having it for just under 55k miles and me maintaining it, the factory battery finally gave up the ghost about 4.5 years of service at 48k miles (which 3 to 5 years of service is common in my area). The first 42k miles got packed quick due to the distances the kiddos had to drive... Following 3 years of double drivers, one of the two became the sole driver of the car but still seen mostly highway trips. The final year or so of the car's service, it mostly sat days almost a week or so at a time since they acquired a job were they worked primarily from home. It was then the battery started showing its age when the car sat closer towards that week mark and finally failed to start after I did an oil change on it was trying to start the car.
Yes... The smart key fob remained inside the car (and all doors unlocked but closed, only hood open) during that service. No loads were on during that 35 minute oil change and tire rotation but I did note that the 12 volt battery tested weak but good before even putting the lift arms under the car to service it.
Fits are equipped with an electronic load detection system that both vary the charge rate or lack-thereof while driving. If the system does not see battery voltage drop below threshold "X" after initially seeing an adequate source voltage from the 12V battery, the system will not charge. Similar goes with a system load, if high beams are not active or you do not have enough of a load on the vehicle's system such as combo of A/C, exterior lights and/or the system sensing a low source voltage, again it will not charge. Of course finally, if the system does not have an long enough drive cycle and sees frequent short trips the battery will be a discharged state.
Also note, a battery with a bad cell(s) can of course be jump started and may hold a partial, temporary charge... but it will not hold it for long once the vehicle is shut off.
Each cell in our 12 volt 151r batteries is about 2 volts. Usually the little Fit sees 10.8 or less source voltage, it will struggle to start and you MIGHT get lucky to fire the engine off the first or second time.
Interstate is the OE battery supplier.
In response to the quote below, I'll chime in my thoughts individually within the quote in bold text.
Again no mention of trim level, driving habit, or for certain security system armed/active as both the gauge cluster and radio both have red anti theft lights that flicker on the left side of them. Add to that, both of their lights are timed to flash after a short period. The security light in the gauge cluster is for certain on a 2 second loop. The radio's security light... I honestly do not recall at this time but is on a similarly short timed loop as well.
With that said, if a Fit of ANY generation looses battery voltage the radio will default into its locked state and ask for the security code(s) or unlock sequence. Until that radio is unlocked, that red security light will periodically flash on the radio. Even though we're lacking a time stamp for that event, I would not be surprised if a new battery solved the problem.
Sounds like a battery with a bad cell. Any recollection with this ordeal?
I'll address this and the following quote below in one go.
Any shop be it dealership, Honda/Acura specialist, or 3rd party/private shop with an amp meter should be able to check for current draw. The hood has to be popped with the hood latch needs to be in the locked/closed/fully latched position along with the alarm armed.
Your procedure sounds like it maybe incorrect due to lacking information such as how long you waited before getting your readings. Capacitors in the electrical system may not have depleted yet as well as after a duration of about 5 to 10 minutes, all control units are supposed to be off and in their "sleep" state.
Redo your test, monitor for current draw for a period of about 5 to 10 minutes and update us with your findings. If you're seeing a reading of 0.050 amps or less after that time, then you're good. Ideally, you'll be well under 0.010 amps.
Eh... Maybe, maybe not. Did the individual follow the procedure that I mentioned above?
It may very well be a draw concern... BUT without following the correct diagnostic steps to get the system to shut down and troubleshoot appropriately, you'll likely get flawed results.
I've seen many of 3rd part facilities misdiagnose a faulty battery issue as an alternator by following the correct test procedure.
I've also seen keyless access units and body control modules cause the system to stick in either the "accessory" or "on" position.
Even seen one push start cars effected by the warranty extension (which both of your's is in range due to model year) can some times hang in the either "accessory" or "on" as well if the operator isn't paying attention before exiting the vehicle.On oddball occasions, there have some straggler 2015 and 2016 Fits having faulty alternators and starters as well.
So really, it's a little bit of a crap shoot without knowing the driving and parking routine with you and your spouse.
If you could provide details on what trims (LX, EX, EX-L) Fits you have, an idea of how they're driven in terms of frequency and trip duration to get a better idea of what's going on?
Also, when parked... Are they locked up in the garage with and keys in the house (or at least 10 feet from the car if Smart Key/One Push Start)? Do they sit unlocked in the garage with the smart key fob in the car or key in the ignition? Some folk in more secure or spaced out rural areas still do this honestly.
You can look here on this thread from my driving habits, (let me know if you need more info).. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/gene...leage-fit.html
And they are kept outside in their own garages (yes, they are pampered) with no keys near them, and have passed every full electrical test, except for when the starter failed one time. Also, when we looked at the paperwork, and we had the battery changed on my wifes 2015 the first time, even though the dealer charged it (after AAA recharged it to get to the dealer) and said it was fine, so we paid for a new one as she didnt want to take a chance on a 'bad battery". Forgot about it as technically it "didnt fail" according to the dealer. As for the testing the tech did it by the book and made me clear out for 10-15 minutes to check it again, but if you want a second by second breakdown, I can do that if you really need that...(Sarcasm alert, sorry have lost my patience on this)
OK, well if its just a battery with a bad cell then how come now the 10th battery on the total record, which i just had put into the 2015 Honda Fit in Texas to get home just failed. I took it to the original Honda dealer which I bought it from as the others said they were booked up, and it seemed they were backed up as many of the new models seem to have much more issues than you would expect on a Honda. Anyway, its a 100+ miles away, but they always do excellent service, so took it there and they checked everything and it passed with flying colors, except for the battery which failed so they gave me basically a lifetime warranty battery which should have been done from the start. https://www.silkohonda.com/parts/par...tery-warranty/
You can look here on this thread from my driving habits, (let me know if you need more info).. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/gene...leage-fit.html
And they are kept outside in their own garages (yes, they are pampered) with no keys near them, and have passed every full electrical test, except for when the starter failed one time. Also, when we looked at the paperwork, and we had the battery changed on my wifes 2015 the first time, even though the dealer charged it (after AAA recharged it to get to the dealer) and said it was fine, so we paid for a new one as she didnt want to take a chance on a 'bad battery". Forgot about it as technically it "didnt fail" according to the dealer. As for the testing the tech did it by the book and made me clear out for 10-15 minutes to check it again, but if you want a second by second breakdown, I can do that if you really need that...(Sarcasm alert, sorry have lost my patience on this)
OK, well if its just a battery with a bad cell then how come now the 10th battery on the total record, which i just had put into the 2015 Honda Fit in Texas to get home just failed. I took it to the original Honda dealer which I bought it from as the others said they were booked up, and it seemed they were backed up as many of the new models seem to have much more issues than you would expect on a Honda. Anyway, its a 100+ miles away, but they always do excellent service, so took it there and they checked everything and it passed with flying colors, except for the battery which failed so they gave me basically a lifetime warranty battery which should have been done from the start. https://www.silkohonda.com/parts/par...tery-warranty/
The storage tidbit is helpful, factors out the smart key from being constantly sensed by the vehicle.
The link you provided didn't really give me any information on how either car is driven just to get a better idea of the usual, routine drive cycles it sees. I'm talking more on the lines of...
A daily route of 4 miles to and from work in city traffic, driven once every 2 to 4 days for a 40 mile round trip grocery store run, etc.
Also... By any chance did any of the Honda techs do an "All DTCs" retrieval on the cars during any of these visits? This obviously pulls any and all diagnostic trouble codes that are present in the vehicle regardless if a warning light is on or not so long as that code either was a minimum a pending DTC. Add to that, the years of dealing with this concern and it going unresolved makes me wonder if there are any powertrain, body, or canbus codes present that would give further insight to what was going on.
Now... I'm not concluding that this is your case but I do ask this due to one particular DTC is coming to mind that I've heard of but yet come across first hand is DTC is P16E4 - ACG (Alternator/Current Generator) High Temperature. Its a rather funky DTC to isolate since alternator temp needs to be at least 374 degrees F for 60 seconds so it would code, set a snap shot and alert the vehicle operator. It also results in alternator replacement once verified and one of its telltale signs is indeed current draw as well... We've had one very early GK5 (pre-June 2014 build date so it needed ALL the recalls for 2015MY) pass through our shop and it needed an alternator due to that DTC.
Add to that... there are only two alternator part numbers listed by Honda that correlate exclusively with the 2015 and 2016 GK5 Fits and either their CVT or 6MT transmissions. That part number has indeed had one supercession/update since the original batches have been released. In comparison, the 2017 to 2020 models have the same tread with their part numbers for the CVTs and 6 speed manuals, neither one of these part numbers have been updated since their introduction though.
Now... could it be possible that your alternators are the earlier 31100-5R7-A01 if CVT or the 3110-5R0-004 if 6MT? Possibly... Especially if they're still the factory alternators. Again..I'm not advocating this is your exact issue since I've also seen keyless access units and body control modules from this "era" of Honda's tech have current draw characteristics. Though this is definitely like something to consider after having an on going stint of replacing batteries.
Now touching back on one thing. When I quoted this...
Originally Posted by Reddogs
Well, I took it to the local one since the dealers aren't saying anything, and the battery was at 9 volts, and would look like it was ready to start and show all displays but wouldn't turn over.
It was to gather information on this circumstance forward as it seemed like that was your most recent battery replacement interval on either of your GKs. The battery replacements prior to this are a scratch in my book and moving that point onward, you (along with other viewers/participants in the thread) can really start logging what is going on with that specific Fit.
Also this was in attempt to further clarify the service life of that battery and start anew with this recent replacement. Again, Honda was indeed getting bad batches of batteries from Interstate roughly from the late 2016 to to early 2018 like I mentioned above. This applied to both factory equipped AND their replacement batteries across the entire model range. I wasn't 100% sure if this battery was acquired near that time frame and finally gave out that visit.
Even all of the cars I have here from the 1950's still have the original keys with them. And they are paper thin compared to today's keys. Trust me. Breaking keys off in the ignition isn't common or even a thing anyone worries about. Because it doesn't really happen. Outside of some crazy instances or abnormal situations.
I did have the recall issue that was fixed for free through the Honda Dealer I go for all my maintenance work. Since then it's worked flawlessly with Zero problems.
My next car whatever that will be will be a Push Button start. No more Key start ignition for me if available.
Yes, I saw that and had to force the dealer to do it as he said I did not see the exact error msg in order to get free exchange. As for the battery, here is something that Honda says that is interesting... "You know that your Honda battery warranty covers premature expiration. But how does your coverage really work? Here’s what you should know:
For the first 36 months of your warranty, our Honda service center will replace your Honda battery, covering the battery, labor, and installation at no cost to you.
For the remaining 64 months, you’ll receive a credit to cover part of the cost of replacement."
So why did the dealers even charge me during the first 36 months to say nothing on the 'credit' for the 64.
Yes, I saw that and had to force the dealer to do it as he said I did not see the exact error msg in order to get free exchange. As for the battery, here is something that Honda says that is interesting... "You know that your Honda battery warranty covers premature expiration. But how does your coverage really work? Here’s what you should know:
For the first 36 months of your warranty, our Honda service center will replace your Honda battery, covering the battery, labor, and installation at no cost to you.
For the remaining 64 months, you’ll receive a credit to cover part of the cost of replacement."
So why did the dealers even charge me during the first 36 months to say nothing on the 'credit' for the 64.
@Reddogs The one push start issue is a warranty extension, not a recall. If they can't get it to code and verify part failure then no part replacement without that warranty claim getting kicked denied at the service department eating repair. Plus the vehicle needs to be within the year and mileage range of the warranty extension to qualify for replacement as well.
As for the battery warranty... That only applies when you purchase a battery outside of the bumper to bumper 3 year/36k mile warranty or when you elect to replace it yourself.
The dealership is supposed to log it with your service records (which is now viewable at all Honda dealerships) if you paid them to install it and that starts the 36 month, free replacement portion of the warranty. After that it is of course prorated accordingly.
Now... if you purchased it over the counter then its up to you to keep the receipt for your records unless parts attaches the counter ticket with your customer number OR with a repair order to attach it with your vehicle's VIN. Some places provide you a card documenting the day of purchase and giving you the proration ranges as well.
