i'm planning on changing the coolant on my GK ( it's due ) . i have a Haynes manual for the previous gen. can i assume it's the same procedure ?

 

 

Be sure to use the proper blue coolant. I used Aisin ACB-003 in mine with great results.

 

There are substitutes which work just fine but Honda Type-2 from Honda is a very good value.
Many dealerships will give you a discount if you ask.

 

I have several issues with my 2015 Honda Fit EX CVT and just joined the forum today after reading through some rhreads. Trying to do proper newbie etiquette by not starting any threads unless it's something unique I need help with. My experience with cars is pretty basic and I could probably only do the basic DIY stuff like changing wipers, lights etc.
Anyway, my AC this summer has not been keeping up with the heat here in Northeast USA and apart from cooler days, early mornimgs/evenings I don't use it and drive with windows open. Heat works perfectly fine. Is it likely a coolant problem? I'm not sure if I have had a coolant change done by dealership or not. I would have to look through my records. Thank you and sorry if I'm threadcrapping.
Oh, my Fit has 128k on it. All mine.

 

Refrigerant problem, maybe. If checking the coolant refrigerant level doesn't sound like something you could DIY, you could have a tech check that. My understanding from reading here is that the compressor on the Fit is not oversized and it has to overcome a lot of heat let in by the glass all around the cabin. My '17 (9x,xxx miles )doesn't do an amazing job either.

 

As mentioned above, I wouldn't think it was any kind of "coolant problem".
After any insanely hot heat wave passes, see if your AC doesn't magically work better.
If not, make an appointment with an AC shop with a testing console and pay to have your system checked.
An AC console evacuates the system and keeps it under vacuum for a while in order to detect leaks.
If none are found, the console restores the refrigerant and frequently adds a leak-detection dye.

Today is August 1 and very cool. Try your AC today and see is it's weak before doing anything.

My car, not a Fit so I won't mention it, was undercooling during these heat waves.
I'm in Northern New Jersey, so no difference in temperature or humidity.
If I parked in shade, the air would blast cold.

I firmly believe that vehicles of this era (mine is a 2015 too) were fitted with undersized compressors in a stupid effort at reducing fuel use.

 

Thanks for your answers. I have an oil change scheduled at dealer Monday morning and I'll have them look at the AC unit and some other issues (key fob starter range issue etc).
it did provide some colder air with the 70s yesterday and this.morning being below 60 it was even better.
I forgot to mention the one other AC issue was middle of this summer going through a car wash I blasted the AC since it was sweltering hot and I noticed a smell from the car wash the next day still. Took out the cabin air filter and it was a little damp and wet plus blue marks. Presumably from car wash soap.

 

Make sure your 2 drains are free running.
One drain is the car body's cowl drain.
As you learned, it might have blocked the car wash water from draining such that it entered the HVAC air intake.

The other is the AC's evaporator box. If this drain clogs and the water touched the evaporator coil, the cooling power drops dramatically.

 

Complete coolant change - how? - Unofficial Honda FIT Forums

Assume away. It's probably a missed maintenance item by a lot of people with either generation. You don't want air in your cooling system; a no-spill funnel kit is an easy way to make sure that doesn't happen.

 

Recently, I saw a YouTuber recommend jacking up the front end, then running the engine with the radiator cap off to rid the system of air bubbles. I have never done this, but I have never had trouble bleeding air out of the system.

My S2000 had an air bleeder valve in the back of the engine bay near the fire wall. I don't see any reference to such a valve in the '12 Fit Service Manual. Maybe I will have a look today when I drive my car.

 

Air conditioning has nothing to do with coolant, but everything to do with cooling the engine and feeding the cabin HEAT only.

 

Thanks again for all the insightful info. Went for the oil.change today and asked if they could have a look at the AC not cooling well, trouble starting unless I have the key fob right up to the push button (even then it takesa couple.of tries) and the engine rattling and being a little louder at startup
/idling. They said the starter was going bad and they wanted $159 each to diagnose the other 2 issues. I didn't want to spend over $300 on diagnostic and said I would wait on that. Especially since the starter was a more urgent issue. So, I paid $500 for them to order one and will pay $200 to have it installed. I also had gotten an aftermarket key fob off Amazon for $25 that a local True Value would program for $110. Dealer wouldn't touch it and would charge over $200 for a programmed Honda key fob.

 

Cold start engine rattle has to do with weakened VTC actuator spring, most likely not the starter.

 

$110 to program the fob is an amazing price. Ace Hardware wanted $300 (with their fob), but I declined. Dealer? I can't even imagine.

 

You won't like my answer, but here it goes. I use prestone yellow coolant. I mix tap water with coolant, 50/50 +/-. I replace what ever drains from the radiator draincock. Nothing else. I may be replacing 80-90 percent of the old coolant every 50K miles, but it's good enough for me. My 100% stock 2017 Honda Fit LX CVT is running perfect at 167K miles, 43 mpg highway. This Honda has never failed me.

 

Tap water shouldn't be used because of it's potentially high mineral content. Distilled water only.

 

Guys, we're still talking about a coolant change? This is simple. Let's not over-think it.

1) Use the Honda Coolant. Requires no dilution with water, and you know it is the appropriate product for your car. If you want to save two cents, try and find the appropriate Prestone product and take your chances.

2) Take off the radiator cap.

3) Open the petcock at the bottom corner of the radiator, and drain the old coolant.

4) Add the new coolant to the radiator.

5) Dump out the coolant in the plastic reservoir. Clean the reservoir. Refill with new coolant.

6) Drive the car.

7) Nine point five times out of ten, the engine will suck some coolant from the reservoir into the radiator when the engine cools (like over night).

8) Top off the reservoir.

Changing your fluids is a good thing. Radiators get clogged because coolants degrade, etc.

 

Funny you should mention wipers. When you buy wipers, make sure they will fit a Fit. I bought some that wouldn't. You have to shop by the make and model car now, not just wiper size. Ridiculous!

 

Get one of these and program as many as you want. Lots of videos on YouTube. You can buy the same key fob that Honda sells from eBay - under $20.