Ok i need help and quick cause i want to do this job this weekend so i need to order it asap

Im needing brakes for the front and the this car with these *Shiddy* Drum brakes // which i have never done work on drums

need to get changed,, i can be chill with not replacing the front disc rotors but the drums is what fears me since thats new terroritory and dont know when it should be changed
,, short story is that brakes feel like crap and i see uneven ware meaning ill have to change the drums as well

THIS IS THE QUESTION

does the 2nd gen rotors,pads and drums fit on the 3rd gen??
if so i would buy a kit that is for a 2nd gen which is cheaper but also nicer as its slotted rotors BUT i cant find any info online if its the same,, please someone help me out!
if not im about to tear apart my 2nd gen just to see if it fits my 3rd

 

Has the brake fluid been changed and bled recently? That would be my first suspect for brakes that "feel like crap." The actual brake components have to be practically gone before you will feel anything in daily driving, which is why so many people run their brakes down to the shrieking wear indicators before getting them changed.

Where do you have uneven wear? On the front pads or on the rear drum brake shoes? It is relatively unusual to have to change the rear drums or shoes for many many years simply because they don't do much. My 2010 Fit is approaching 130K miles and the rear shoes measure above the mid-point of allowable wear as indicated in the service manual. The drums show no measurable wear.

The rear brake shoes do wear slightly unevenly because of the way the mechanism works and because >95% of braking happens while the car is moving forward. Do you have any pictures or measurements?

Unless you have some specific need, slotted rotors are like lipstick on a pig - nice to look at but you're still kissing a pig.

I have no idea regarding shared brake components between 2nd and 3rd generation Fits. My guess would be that the parts are interchangeable (cheap economy cars stay cheap through long parts production runs). Did you check part numbers? To be honest, if I had access to both cars I would check for myself. Unless your brake components are horribly rusted, it's a pretty easy job.

Alternatively, ask yourself if the cost difference is worth the amount of time you're going to invest in figuring out whether the parts are interchangeable. If not, just order the correct parts and be done with it.

 

yeah over all ik its not worth buying just to waste time to return them,, as well weirdly enough i found buying the parts one by one was cheaper than the whole kit of the 3rd gen,, and only a 30 diffrence from the 2nd gen kit

and itll have slotted rotors for the front

So this is what i know for the car,, i've only had my 3rd gen for 1 month,, this car was from insurance auction and its whatever, bought it from people who buy from there and fix cars but theres some shit they couldnt do or ig less to invest.

the front brakes look worn, a good enough that i think its appropriate that i want to change them out,, the rear drums is something im new at and idk how to mesaure the wear, nor know if its a good amount,, i looked at it and was remembering how my 2nd gen looked when i first got it *i just popped the drum off so just cause one day*
and its a gooood amount lower than that one, i think on one side its like 1/4th of the size of the one on my 2nd gen so i rather over all just replace it,,

as well i feel vibration whenever braking *and ik this can mean a warped something* so i rather just replace the brakes jsut incase its because its too low, and replace the drums and drum brakes cause im scared of it being too low as well wear on the drums it self,,

im going to be honest, only few times my dad ever changed the front rotars unless there to shit,, and im the same way, but the drums is the only thing that scares me so again *sorry for being a broken record* just bought it all new


(Now, this is a good job for me) ik its nothing hard but *New Learning Experience = *

Do you think reusing the springs and stuff on the drums is ok?
ill take some pics of how everything is because all i gotta say its prob the worst and dirtiest tire area ive ever seen ,,, my 2nd gen the guy added new front brakes and prob cleaned the rear brakes but this one is just caked with brake dust

 

And I would like to Post this for ANY one looking for prices on brakes for a 3rd Gen

$23.99 Front BRAKES (Driver and Passenger) https://www.ebay.com/itm/376042581183
$55.11 **REAR DRUMS AND REAR BRAKES** (Driver and Passenger) https://www.ebay.com/itm/166662944416
$42.99 **FRONT and REAR BRAKES *ONLY* ** https://www.ebay.com/itm/163610344064
$61.18 **SLOTTED DISC FRONT BRAKES** https://www.ebay.com/itm/316589149901?ul_noapp=true

__________________________________________________ _________
And if you want a kit, which is not worth it depepnding or too lazy to add all that to the cart
$166 **FULL BRAKE KIT (non slotted rotars)**

https://www.ebay.com/itm/22708799862...Bk9SR6zip8vUZg


again will be cheaper buy a few $$$ if bought seprate weirdly enough,, and you can get *better* front rotars

 

Go look at aftermarket parts on Rock Auto. Many parts have detailed specifications, like the diameter of the rotor's center bore which is critical for fitment.

Also don't replace parts that are in working condition. Honda parts are (almost) universally better quality than aftermarket parts. Replace the wear items. Clean, inspect and re-lube the rest. Reassemble, adjust, move on.

For drum brake work, get a spring hook. It's a little metal hook with a T-handle for pulling the springs into place.

Our 2020 EX had a stuck rear adjuster (the cross-bar with the screw in it). The symptom was the parking brake lever gradually taking more travel to engage. I cleaned and re-greased it, adjusted to be just shy of the shoes dragging in the drum. It has stayed self-adjusted (working properly) since.

 

+2

One of my favorite features of Rock Auto is how their site shows all the part numbers and you can click on the part number and see what other vehicles that same part number is used on. In this case, the part numbers show the same brake shoes are used on all 2nd and 3rd Gen Fits, while (surprisingly) the drums are different between 2nd Gen and 3rd Gen.

 

Very intresting, so i did the brake job today

it was hard all i can say..
that damn horse shoe...

Anyways, happy i got that delt with * and will post photos of my old brakes soon! i promise*

But i need to change the front brake pads, theyll come monday so just waiting on that, so atleast i got the hardest job done!!!!

took it for a drive and of course i know i have to wait till the front comes and the rear are barley used while braking,, but brakes still feel spongy

*and i know if its spongy i need to bleed the system* BUT i want to wait for the front brakes
and theres a little bumpyness while braking from high speeds,, and again could think a warped rotor *which i think is unlikley*
and might just be the decently low pads on the front so i will update whenever i do that job and bleed the system!

 

You should change the fluid even if it feels less spongy after replacing the front pads/rotors. The car is six years old, probably on original fluid, and of unknown levels of maintenance to this point.

 

The very first thing my mechanic dad taught me about working on the brakes is to do one side at a time, so that you have the opposite side to show you how everything goes together.

The drum brake mechanism appears complicated but is relatively simple, especially if you can walk around to the other side for "advice."

 

Yep. There's a few details in which way around stuff gets installed, but it's pretty straight forward. The curved brake shoes (anchored to the suspension) get pushed outward against the inside of the drum (anchored to the wheel) for braking action. The bottom of each shoe rests against a fixed block, the top rests against a piston on either side of the wheel cylinder. A pin and spring clip goes through each shoe and the backing plate to keep the shoe pressed against the backing plate. When fluid is pumped into the wheel cylinder, the shoes get pushed out against the drum. A spring at the top and bottom of the shoes pulls them together to assure they stay engaged with the bottom block and wheel cylinder. To prevent the springs from pushing all the brake fluid out of the wheel cylinder while idle, an adjuster rod is positioned between the shoes. The adjuster rod has a threaded rod with a ratchet-wheel at its center. A parking brake arm pivots on one brake shoe, levering against the adjuster rod when the parking brake cable (at the lever's free end) is pulled. Finally, an auto-adjuster ratchet tab and associated spring advances the adjuster rod as the brake shoe material wears away. The ratchet tab's operating principals are shrouded in mystery, though presumed to include automotive gnomes and/or dark magic.

 

Thanks for following up on this. It is helpful.

 

Also helpful.

What tools are needed? Common hand tools?

 

Regarding Brake Fluid:

Water is your enemy here. Brake fluid is notoriously hygroscopic. Three years between fluid changes is my limit.

 

Yep. Duckbill pliers and a spring hook can make the job easier.

Having mulled it over a bit, I think the spring pulls the auto-adjuster down (which advances the adjuster wheel) when there's slack between the brake shoes and the adjuster rod. That is, when you apply the brakes hydraulically (via the brake pedal), the wheel cylinder spreads the brake shoes without any force going through the adjuster rod. If that opens up enough of a gap between the adjustment rod and shoes, the adjuster swings all the way down to the next wheel tooth. Releasing the brakes makes the upper spring pull the shoes together, which forces the adjuster back to its idle position and rotates the adjuster wheel along with it.
So... Things that could interfere with the auto-adjustment mechanism: Adjustment rod's wheel is stuck (clean it, lube it, check for smooth movement). Auto-adjuster tab isn't engaging the ratchet teeth on the wheel (bend it slightly so it stays engaged). Weak adjuster arm spring (replace, it's a common part of hardware kits). Auto-adjuster arm is stuck at its pivot point (clean, lube, maybe clear excess paint out of the hole in the brake shoe frame). The end of the adjustment rod that operates the auto-adjuster is stuck to the brake shoe (it needs to move independent of the shoe - clean the shoe frame and rod end, lube, maybe sand down the paint on the shoe frame).
You should be able to verify adjuster operation by slightly spreading the brake shoes at the wheel cylinder - do the wheel cylinder's job while watching the adjuster.

 

In a pinch you can replace drum brakes components with a pair of needle nose pliers. There are of course specialized tools that make it less likely that one of the springs will come flying out and stick in your eye, but that's why we wear safety glasses.

 

Somewhere amongst my tools, is a "drum brake servicing" tool kit, which consists of a tool with a hook on it and another to compress and turn the shoe retaining spring clip. I'm sure you can still buy something similar at any parts store. I bought my kit to service the drum brakes on my '71 Nova (4-wheel drums!). It's vintage. But as was mentioned already, you can do it with pliers and a screwdriver. The needle-nose type of Vise-Grip pliers are helpful. Drum brakes haven't really changed much over the years.... If you can do the brakes on your Fit you can do them on pretty much any car.

 

Alrighty! so i would like to update that all brakes have been changed,, the brakes do feela bit better but a bit soft to me but my brain likes more or less how it is now,, would like it a bit more stiff

*note* i was doing the fronts today and whenever i was pushing the fron passanger it was a bit harder than the passanger, like a good amount'

so im thinking theres air in the line on that side so plan for future *might just leave it be*

take the air out the system

 

I'm not really sure what you're saying here, but to make it very simple:
1) If you don't know when the brake fluid was last changed and bled, just do it.
2) If you work on the brakes, as you have just done, you need to bleed the brake fluid.
3) If the brakes feel funny (especially if you know that the pads/rotors are good because you just changed them...) you need to bleed the brake fluid.

Changing and bleeding the brake fluid is cheap and easy. Poor braking performance can be very expensive or even deadly.

 

@PK86 @Drew21 @bobski Thanks. I've never done drums, but I have examined them an awful lot, and I figured those springs were going to be a tricky pain in the a**.

 

That's the number-one complaint about drum brakes. They're going to be annoying - get a tool or 3 to grip them solidly so you aren't struggling with misused tools and the springs.

Number two is probably getting the drum off. There's two threaded holes on the face of the drum to install M8 (12mm head in Honda sizing) bolts. The bolts bottom-out against the hub flange, then start jacking the drum away from the hub. Alternate half a turn or so per bolt. The drum should pop off with the bolts after a few turns.
If the drum is very worn, there can be a raised lip that traps the shoes inside the drum - if the drum feels like it's spring-loaded stuck on the hub, that's what's happening. Some people just force the drum off and deal with the consequences. The "right" way is to push the drum back in place, remove the service plug from the backing plate, then reach in with a tool and back off the adjuster rod, which is slow and tedious. Prevention is the best solution here - if the drum has any sort of wear lip on it, replace the drum. If you're too poor and wreckless for that, put the drum on the hub backwards (secured with lug nuts) and use a grinder to spin the drum while gradually removing the lip. The proper tool for that job is a brake lathe.


Here's a fit-specific video, the GK setup is the same. Taking off the hub/wheel bearing (the single big nut under the cap) will give you better access but isn't necessary. There's no reason to take off the axle-stub (4 bolts they accessed through the hub holes) when doing routine service.