Hey all. I'm brand new here (and I'm a carpenter ; ) ), and have looked at lots of posts that seem similar to my issue, but still haven't been able to trouble shoot what's happening on my 2016 Fit.
History:
-I fried the main 100a battery fuse when jumper cables got reversed
-replaced big fuse block on positive battery post
-car started and drove home from where it was stranded
-ran it for about 45 minutes to charge the battery from alternator
-successfully started it and moved it twice after that as well
-car now has crank no start situation
-OBD reader cannot communicate
-fuel pump is not priming
-PGM-FI Main relay 1 in engine compartment doesn't "activate/click" when ignition in "run"
What I have checked/done:
-replaced battery, as it was original
-checked all fuses, replaced entertainment 15a fuse which was the only fuse that had also fried
-checked all relays I can access, for function (clicks when 12v power applied, and multimeter shows continuity after that as well)

I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram for the 3rd Gen that shows the PGM-FI relays, but from what I've gathered the PGM-FI relay 2 (blue fuel pump relay under dash) gets activated once the PGM-FI relay 1 (one of the 2 Brown relays in engine compartment) gets activated, which happens when the ignition is turned on.
Also PGM-FI relay 1 is what "powers up" the computer/ECM when ignition turned on, so this might explain why my OBD reader isn't communicating...
So I'm at the point where I'm trying to ascertain why that PGM-FI relay 1 isn't getting power/activated... Like, does it get 12v directly from the ignition switch?

Driving me crazy here ha ha.

Cheers to any insight!

 

The ALLDATA diagram I'm looking at (marked for 2019 Fit) shows PGM-FI Main Relay 1's coil (socket terminal 3) and common contact (socket terminal 1) both getting power from Fuse 7 (15A, hot at all times) in the same (under-hood) fuse box. The relay coil (socket terminal 4) gets switched ground from pin A3 of the PCM, which is shared with the Ignition Coil Relay's coil (also in the under-hood fuse box). PGM-FI Main Relay 1's normally open contact (socket terminal 2) splits out 5 ways to the PCM (pin A5), Injector Relay coil (under-hood box, socket terminal 3), ETCS Control Relay (under-hood box, socket terminal 3), PGM-FI Main Relay 2 (under-dash box, socket terminal 3), splits again at a junction connector on the left side of the engine and continues on to power the CMP sensor (Pin 1) and CKP Sensor (pin 3).

 

Thanks for the reply Bobski! Really appreciated.

I will double check fuse #7 under the hood, and also see if I can see the switched ground happening at socket terminal 4 on the PGM-FI relay 1.

I don't suppose you are able to share the diagram you were looking at? I can't believe how hard it seems to be to find diagrams for these cars. It took me forever to find a source that identified the relays function/ locations.

Cheers!

 

It's one of those multi-page electronic manual nightmares. I'll see if I can stitch it together into something useful to the community.

 

Honda parts diagrams (as in for ordering replacement parts) generally list the relay function on the item description. It blows my mind that it isn't on the box lids, the back of the owners manual, or really anywhere physical.

 

Solution! Sometimes it's the smallest thing. Fuse #7 in the engine compartment had been put back in the wrong slot after inspection (there are several blank spots next to it, on our base model) but without knowing that that fuse fed power to the PGM-FI relay 1, I would probably have ended up at the mechanics eventually. So thank you so much Bobski.
Really.

 

Bobski

i REALLY hate to be a complainer but i cant save that in a format i can actually read?

 

Blame the forum. It was a 10,867 x 1867 pixel 2.3 MB .png when I uploaded it. Seems the forum down-scaled it to a useless size and turned it into a webp. I can't stand that trash format. I'll report my post and see if admins can do anything about it.

 

This was the best i could come up with....... i own a 2015 and i think what you posted could be quite useful,especially if the fuses are not labelled <roll eyes>...LUCKILY......i do not know this car too well...bought new, never been to any shop, ........besides the starter..i replaced ...gesus and the ongoing saga withe underbelly pan...oh yea...and the VTEC rattle...we goooood

 

Our 2020 EX has startup-rattled twice now (that I've heard). It sounds like a chain dragged across hard plastic for the first half second or so. The VTC issue was supposedly fixed before this car left the factory. Hopefully it isn't a failed chain tensioner or something. I'm thinking 5w20 or 30 at the next oil change.

 

I m thinking a thicker oil too...or thinner.....i think the chain on the hard plastic is actually the chain on the hard plastic.....the chain slapping on the giant plastic tensioner...sad face....thicker oil to dampen that all or thinner oil to get the VTC acuator up to speed faster....no one knows

 

The VTC actuator is a hydraulic thingie in the center of the intakev cam gear. Applying more oil pressure makes the cam shaft rotate relative to the cam gear (variable cam phasing). Less oil pressure lets a return spring push it back towards zero. The analysis I read said that the problem was caused by oil draining out of the actuator while the engine is off. Without any oil to damp movement, the irregular forces from the cam (lumpy shaft pushing against valve springs) overpower the return spring. The actuator flops around a bit until it fills with oil.

My hope is that thicker oil will take longer to drain out of the actuator.

 

that was my thought too...but getting up at 2am to turn the car on could get old after you figure out the time the oil takes to drain

they make a stronger spring

https://spring-start.com/?srsltid=Af...e3kEijX701t3th

or shim the existiing one and report back...

im the ostrich philosophy...sadly

or if oil thing works, let me know!!!

 

im wondering if you could just lock it solid so it is NOT a floppy mess!!...so no spring, just a dowel...no one knows what the answer is to that either...sadly : (

 

it's not a webp, it's a png.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...f8cb6e01bb.png

i just read this yesterday, somewhat related:
https://underpassapp.com/news/2025/3/4.html

 

Loathing of webp is appreciated, but doesn't address the forum down-scaling the image to the point of the text being unreadable.

I'm getting served webp. I just spent a few minutes going down that header rabbit hole. In Firefox, going into about:config and setting "image.http.accept" to "image/png;q=0.9,image/jpeg;q=0.8,*/*;q=0.7" got the browser to display png, but the site still serves a webp when I try to download the image. TBH that's the opposite of what I'm after. Visually, webp is only slightly inferior to other formats. It's the lack of compatibility with older image editors and such that makes it a hindrance, with no appreciable benefit to the user. As such, displaying webp images in-browser is fine, but they would ideally download in their original formats.

 

to my knowledge, we do not deliver webp images, we only added the ability to even accept them as uploads recently. when i inspect the element, it's a PNG. I think Firefox is doing it to you.

 

i also don't understand why you have no albums, specifically a 'my posts pictures' album where this image should reside and I should be able to link to the original version from. I am asking about that.

 

Possibly. I just noticed that the "webp" that had downloaded was previewing properly in MacOS (actual webp files just show up as a blank page icon, the OS default for I-don't-know-what-this-file-type-is). I received a png with a webp extension.

 

ok, so it appears Firefox is totally dummying you (and everyone)


for the image you uploaded if you go here, you should be able to find it and get a link to the original file as uploaded:
https://www.fitfreak.net/g/