Cylinder 2 Misfire at 40,000 Miles
 

Code P0302, this is the first time my check engine light has ever come on. It came on along with a steering wheel light, an exclamation mark, and the traction control light. I called my service advisor who said that they are currently booked for the weekend but told me to reset the codes since I have the tool and see if it comes back or was just a one time thing due to bad fuel or something. Reset the code and the next morning upon cold start the lights came back on again, so I've made an appointment for next week. I'll keep you guys updated. I always fuel up at the same gas station that I have been going to for the last 6 years so I don't think fuel is the issue. (Exxon Mobil) So my bets are on maybe a bad spark plug, a bad coilpack or a dirty air filter.

Have you guys had a similar experience with your gk5?

I haven't had any code issues - yet.

How was the car running prior to the codes?

I don't know how a cylinder misfire could cause the other 2 codes you mention. Strange.

first thing to check, a loose plug?

Not an uncommon problem
 

328isawesome There are a number of posts that mention indicator lights.

Our family has two 2015 FIT EX's both with CVT. Here's what happened:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...r-problem.html

And then:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...-what-fit.html

As of this moment both FITs are doing fine, but we are holding our breaths.

Back when we first had the FIT there was this light problem but it was caused
by rodents eating the soy based wiring. There is a post somewhere about that.

PLEASE keep us updated!

When you are clearing codes with your scan tool of choice, TorquePro on my Droid,
remember that some codes cannot be cleared. Those codes clear after x number of
cycles.

**UPDATE**

I cleared the codes, siphoned most of the Exxon Mobil gas and got gas at a Shell station just in case it was the gas. I drove the car for a day, the next day the lights came back so I stopped driving the car. When on my way to the dealer the check engine light turned off on its own but the other lights remained.

**When the service advisor and I read the codes, the car came up with the following. P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire and U0029 (some electrical trouble code that indicates a faulty connection in the canbus connected to the gauge control module).

After the tech diagnosed the car, I was told the car needs a new fuel injector, new spark plugs, and new coils. The electrical code was probably thrown because the car was very close to stalling and that canbus most likely lost power for a moment. Now that I think back the car did sometimes have trouble when trying to take off when I would punch the throttle sometimes on 2nd gear off a red light and I would just take it easy and switch gears (thinking it was just me being a bit hard on the car since it's not a performance car like I'm used to) but it is very likely that it was the injectors having trouble.

I'll keep you guys updated on how things go after the service is performed and I get the car back.

EDIT: BenQuick and wasserball, connectors are tight and the car runs as it did prior to when the lights came on, no real change in performance. The trouble that I mentioned above happened very seldom since I bought the car at 17K miles but it was so seldom that I never took it in to get checked out since no lights came on and I didn't know how to reproduce the behavior with certainty.

**UPDATE #2**
I got the car back from the dealership.

Here is the description:
Installed Injector Set
Installed Pipe Set, Fuel Joint
Cleaned Throttle Body
Installed Gasket, Throttle Body

Per customer's request:
Performed service (oil change)
Replaced spark plugs
Replaced ignition coils

Tech's Notes:
Replaced injectors as per bulletin xxx-xxx OK Now. Found that there was still misfiring, removed intake and valve cover, checked clearance OK. Valves very carboned up. Cleaned valves and reinstalled valve cover intake. Found that the misfires were gone. The fuel type can cause this. May need to go up a grade on fuel. Test drove all OK.

My take on this:
It looks like the tech had to test drive it several times and run the car's check control cycle because I got the car back with almost no gas and I left it with roughly half a tank. I drove it half of the day today and it hasn't done that power loss after takeoffs on 2nd gear so I assume that solved that issue. The electrical codes have not come back so I'm guessing it was because the car was on the brink of stalling. Spark plugs and coils are something that I always like doing on cars when I buy them used but I hadn't done it on this car because I bought it with 17K miles but I just went ahead and did it. Maybe a waste but it's a habit and servicing this Honda is 10 times cheaper than the BMW's I was used to having serviced so not a huge deal.

I'll keep you guys posted any other issue comes back.

My local dealer replaced the same stuff as per your service bulletin at 16k miles (injectors and rail). Car ran fine with those dashboard lights on.
I just passed 60k miles and no issues. I am using the same gas station and 87 oct I used for my previous cars. But I still get stumbling/hesitation in 2nd gear in the low 2000's rpm sometimes.

**Update #3**

After driving the car for two days and the CEL has not come back on and the jerking/hesitation in 2nd or 1st gear have not occurred when I try to recreate them. It looks like the real problem is the carbon build up in the upper valves that has to be manually cleaned. Kind of sucks but if we can bring enough evidence that this is causing our cars to behave like this then I think we can get the dealer to perform this cleaning under powertrain warranty as I did after it was proven that the injectors, plugs, and coilpacks were not the problem after replacing them. Using higher octane gas might help delay the carbon build up but I'm still doing research on this. Additives are useless since the gas is directly injected into the cylinders.

Earth Dreams engines are poo poo and I plan on selling my car once I finish paying it off. I had originally intended on keeping it like I did my TSX which reached 240K miles before it got rear ended but regular carbon buildup cleaning seems ridiculous. We'll see...

Thus is direct injection for you. Carbon fouling to the max.