We have a 2015 Fit EX CVT with rear drums. I was trying to remove the drums yesterday to adjust the parking brakes but had a little trouble removing them. I tried loosening it with a rubber mallet but it wouldn't budge. Does anyone know the size of those 2 threaded holes so I can put screws/bolts to back out the drum? Also would have been nice if they just had an adjustment hole built into the drum.

 

Take a sledge hammer and knock it around the drum to break free the built up rust around the hub.

 

Thanks wasserball, I'll give that shot. But I still like using 2 bolts and back them out that way. I've had success on other cars using that method in the past.

 

Do you have your parking brake on? That'll keep you from budging them.

 

Yes, the parking brake was off when I was trying to remove the drum.

 

I do not remember if the rear of the Fit has the two little keepers on two of the lug studs. If it does, remove them and throw them away. Those keepers are to keep the assembly together during manufacturing until the wheels are mounted. After that they serve no purpose.

I have used those threaded holes on the front and they work well. I do not remember what size those holes are, but I had bolts that size in stock so they are not some odd-ball thread.

If the threaded holes do not work (and there are no keeper clips on the studs), soak the drum center hole and the drum holes where the studs are with some good penetrating oil like Kroil or PB Blaster. Try removing again in 3 to 5 days.

I am surprised a 2015 model has drums rusted on that bad.

On reassembly putting a VERY LIGHT coating of anti-seize on the center hole and the drum contact area with the hub (inside the drum). This will prevent that from happening again. Do NOT get any anti-seize on the braking surface of the drum or shoes. A one time coating will last for the life of the vehicle. We do that to all of our new vehicles one time on the first tire rotation while we have the wheels off.

 

n9cv, thanks for the recommendations. I honestly have not tried too hard in trying to get the drum off. I only moderately tapped around drum with a rubber mallet. I know if I can get couple of screws in there, they will pop right off. I just didn't have screws/bolts of varying sizes laying around in my garage for me to experiment and was going to go to Lowes to get them if someone knew the exact size.

 

OK, I'm guessing that it is a 8x1.25 bolt with a 12 mm. hex head. Get at least 2. Probably around 1" (2 or 3 centimeters) long.

 

actually buy an Allen head bolt. Gives more clearance instead if trying to use a wrench or socket with an extension.


Lastly. It's been literally 20+ years since I've had to deal with drum rear brakes. I assume you backed off the adjusters so the drum that's probably has a grove worn into them will slide over the brake shoes? If not the drum will never come off because the shoes are keeping it on.

 

Thanks Rob and n9cv, I will give that size a try. That was the whole thing that started all this, I was trying to adjust the shoes/emergency brake because the first 3-4 clicks does nothing. But there isn't any holes up front to make the adjustment. Like you, the last drums I had was on my 86 Civic hatchback and my neighbor taught me the screw trick back then. Maybe they moved the adjustment access to the back nowadays, that would be really stupid.

 

An M8 x 1.25 bolt is correct to release the shoes, IIRC. If you can't get them loose, you will need a brake drum puller. You can often borrow one from an auto parts store.



I needed one for the Geo (Isuzu) that my daughter owned 20 years ago.



Don't forget to lubricate the three points on each brake shoe that contact the backing plate. Use a high-temp brake grease, just a little. I use a thin metal letter opener coated with grease to get the lube in.

Also, if your GK drums have the same design as the GD, remove the rust from the grooves in the back side.

Here's the GD DIY.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...ml#post1319292


Too bad Photobucket got greedy and removed access to many of the people's photos.

 

Are you only trying to adjust the tension on the ebrake handle? Did you try the adjuster that can be accessed through the back of the center console?

 

You SHOULD always adjust the shoes first. They will generate some 'slack' (for want of a better term) as the shoes conform to the arc of the brake drum.

Best way to adjust the rear brakes is to pull the handbrake one click, then adjust for slight drag. Make sure you press the footbrake to 'center' the shoes.

Then re-check. The drums should spin freely (at least one turn when you spin it as in the Price is Right) and rub a little with one click.

 

lausy, what did you finally used to get the drum off the spindle?

 

I've been away and havent had a chance to tend to this. But I did buy couple of M8x1.25 bolts tonight from Lowes so will try to get to it this weekend.

 

If you did not get hard ones, go back and get the hardest grade bolts that you can find.

 

buy a sledge hammer. You can dong dong dong just like the cathedrals on the hour. How do you think they do it at the repair shops?