I suspect the ignition switch on my 2015 Fit LX CVT is failing. I have intermittent starting issues, and wiggling the key sometimes helps. The battery tested fine at Autozone. The connections at the terminals are tight.

I ordered the new switch from Autozone, and it will be here Friday, but what first seemed fairly simple has scared me now. Does anyone have a safe DIY procedure for changing the switch? Will my key still work at the end? Will I need a code to unlock the radio? What do I need to do to ensure the airbag doesn't deploy? Any other special hardware I should be aware of so I don't end up stranded when I swap it out? Or should I just go to the dealership? Switch was only 30 bucks, wasn't sure what they would charge me to change it, and wanted to try this before I took a run at a potentially unneccessary 600+ dollar starter motor.

Just planning to change the switch, not the lock cylinder. -- ordered this part

I live in Texas, it is still 60-90 degrees here (so I don't think cold crank could be to blame)

 

Well, good news bad news:
Good news-- here's the procedure-- Disconnect battery. Press down break (not sure why here, but my foot was on it. Doubt it matters, but would hate to leave it out and have it matter) remove one screw on bottom of steering column clam shell. Turn steering wheel to the left to reveal a leverage point and use a flat head screwdriver to pop that clip, turn to the right, repeat. Remove top clam shell. 1 screw now revealed on other side holding the bottom part Remove screws, remove bottom part of clam shell.
Fracture spine to get a look at the switch. There is one fillips screw (small head) on the back side that can be removed with a stubby screw driver. There is another on the driver side door side that can be removed with a right angle screw driver. You do NOT have to remove the shear bolts if you are just changing the switch, but it's a tight and frustrating fit. Remove switch, unplug connector, re-assemble.

Bad news -- Issue persists. Replaced the battery based on some reading here that even if the battery wasn't testing bad an old or slightly weak battery could cause this issue. It wasn't the battery either.

is the Starter the most likely culprit now?

 

Lately there has been an uptick in starter failures reported on the site.

 

It could be a wiring problem, for example a corroded connection or even a loose connection. To check the voltage drop across a connector all you need is a voltmeter and a probe (like for example perhaps a sewer's pin) to stick into the back sides of connectors (the side where the wires go in). It should be 0 or very tiny showing that there is no resistance across the connection. At a completely open connection you will have nearly the same voltage as battery voltage tested at the battery. Very often ground connections to the chassis become corroded. For example the cable from the battery to ground can get corroded at either end, at the battery or at the place where it is connected to the car body.

 

It could be a wiring problem, for example a corroded connection or even a loose connection. To check the voltage drop across a connector or a length of wire all you need is a voltmeter. Very often ground connections to the chassis become corroded. For example the cable from the battery to ground can get corroded at either end, at the battery or at the place where it is connected to the car body.

This used to work on my older car, I'm not sure what is going on with computerized cars: assuming you have a good battery, or you can use a battery from another car where the battery is known to start to the car, to test the starter, just bypass everything else - use the positive wire of jumper cables (the starter should already be grounded but if no you'll need the negative wire also) to connect from the positive term of battery directly to the correct positive terminal or terminals on the starter or starter solenoid or both, needed to start the car. and see if the starter turns the engine. The engine won't start because it won't have ignition, but the starter will turn it over. If you are using another car you can leave it running. Just make sure you have the correct terminals or you could damage something. You may need a wiring diagram and a diagram of the starter. Generally you use the heavy gauge jumper wire to connect to the starter motor positive terminal, and then you use a short length of thinner wire to connect from there to the starter solenoid.