Certainly there is information about this topic but I was unable to find it.
My apologies.
I'm needing to rotate the tires on my 2016 Fit.
My questions:

1. Front to back, back to front, same side?
2. Lug nut torque?

Thanks in advance.

I have Maxxis MA 202 tires which I like very much.

 

Are they directional tires? If so do front to back on the same side.

If they are bi directional then you can cross them.

I do 90 lb/ft for lugs.

 

What he said

I do "C" on this diagram but I have bidirectional tires. I was able to get about 40k on the stock tires with rotations every 5k miles.

 

Thank you. Mine are non-directional.
Barry's Tire Tech

And thanks for the quick replies. I will make a sketch in my owners manual so I'll know next time.

 

Any suggestions about how to easily get all four wheels off the ground at once, or some other way to make this job easier?
Till now I've never done the cross thing. That makes the job more complicated.

 

Loosen the lug nuts first. Drive up on a ramp so I can get my low profile floor jack to access the front lift point near the engine. Lift it up, and put the front on jack stands. Then I use the rear tow hook to lift up the rear and put the rear on jack stands.

If you don't have a ramp, a couple 2x4s stacked should get you enough space, but that's w/ a low profile lift.

 

it helps to have 2 jacks (esp the low profile ones), I dont know how I'd live w/o em

 

Thanks. This sounds good. I may have to borrow an extra set of jack stands from the neighbor.

 

Is this an LX with steel wheels or does it have alloys?
If alloys, 90lb/ft is too much.
Try 75.

 

If you have a set of winter tires then rotation is easy because you can move the summer tires around to new locations when you re-install them in the spring, and you'll only need the one jack.

I put a dab of white paint on the inside of each wheel (anywhere from one to four dabs) so I know what the original location of each wheel was and can tell where it needs to be now depending on how many rotations it's been through.

I have wheel stud torque written down as 80 ft-lb but can't remember where I got that.

 

sounds politically sensitive. asymmetrical sounds gooder. or non directional.

 

80 ft/lb is in the manual for the lug nuts.

 

I just do F to R/R to F …. f that other noise, tire technology has come a long way from the supposedly good all days.

 

 

just be sure to retorque it a few times if using 80lbs.

 

Re-torquing is certainly required for alloy wheels but I've never been convinced it's needed for steelies and I've never done it for mine.

 

I've been over-thinking this. Yesterday morning I grabbed a mug of coffee and went out on the driveway and rotated my tires, using the donut as a spacer. I even used the Fit jack instead of my hydraulic floor jack because it mates with the jacking points without stress.
Took maybe an hour. Piece of cake. Nice, peaceful way to spend an early morning.

 

 

 

For "ramps" I use a single piece of 2 x 12 inch lumber on each side. 1.5 inch extra height is enough to enable me to get my jack to the center lift point. Lumber pieces would be maybe about 2 feet long. I cut one end of each piece of lumber at a 45 degree angle to make it easy to drive up onto. Bang each piece up against each tire with a 2 or 3 pound hammer. Then drive up onto them. The center jack point is about even with the back of the rotors - unusually far back. Someone has a photo of it somewhere on fitfreak. Then of course simply let the car down onto jack stands, placed under the reinforced areas of the pinch weld behind each front wheel.