So, my a/c died and I suspect it's a relay. There is supposed to be a diagram of the fuses and relays listed in the owners manuel and in the lids of the fuse boxes. Of course non of the relays are listed. Does anyone know which relay is for the a/c compressor?

 

Relay hasn't been a big problem IMO, so not my first suspect.
But I'd pull the relay out and quick check control/power/ field coil circuit, all from the convenience of the open relay socket.
Check if the system lost freon. Connect a pressure gauge to the low side and see if PSI is a little higher than ambient temperature.

Compressor clutch relay is typically marked as a plain snowflake symbol. Located in Aux relay box, a group of 4 relays on the right (passengers) strut tower
Don't confuse it with the condenser fan relay symbol, snowflake inside a square or something about like that (though on that car it's not in the same box).

 

Yea, trouble is, they don't have symbols or anything. I was hoping someone knew. Apperantly this is secret info. I've been searching the internet for a while trying to find a diagram for the relays. Anyway, the clutch isn't engaging but it doesn't appear broken. I tried refilling the a/c but no clutch nixes that. I was hoping to just check the relay but then I couldn't figure out which it was. There are 4 there by the passenger side but sadly they are all the same. I'm not impressed with Honda at all atm. Lol.

 

I took another look, it seems that there is one that is different, it is just a different make though.

 

Of the four relays laid out in a square: front row passengers side


I don't have an actual car to take a picture of and didn't find a good pic on google search.

 

Thank you so much. I hope it's the same on my car. Lol. These engineers are really something with this stuff. Ok, so, passenger side box then relay nearest me and on the left if you are facing the hood of the car?

 

Left and right on any vehicle are always determined as you sit in the drivers seat facing forward.
It never matters where you are looking from outside the car.

 

Thanks again!

 

Just for an update, we were able to get the air conditioning working. The relay was fine but we needed to jump the clutch so that we could get refrigerant in the unit. The problem came from when my friend wanted to top off the refrigerant and the can wasn't working right so I believe instead of recharging it allowed refrigerant to escape until the pressure was too low to engage the clutch. So thanks so much for pointing me to the right place :-)

 

Be careful with charging. These small capacity systems are very easy to overfill and that causes more problems.
Just a couple ounces more or less than the target charging weight spec can really hurt cooling efficiency and performance.

 

So how did you guys know that's the right relay anyway? Need a diagram of all the relays wtf Honda

 

First of all have you checked the OBD II / CAN for diagnostic codes like:

P0532*5



○



A/C Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Voltage



OFF



P0533*5



○



A/C Pressure Sensor Circuit High Voltage



OFF

 

Here's the dx for the AC system

 

Sure would be nice if there was a diagram which label these relays 2016 Honda Fit EX L Located Passenger Side Engine bay

 

2016 Honda Fit Ex L Sure would be nice if these relays were labeled. Any ideas clockwise from upper left?

 

I had a BMW when it was relatively new, the clutch wouldn't engage. What I did was tap the compressor with a hammer to overcome some rust. Problem solved!

 

Funny, the A/C on my '16 LX with 60K just gave out. A/C light comes on but no cold air. I've verified that the fuses are intact and that the compressor kicks in when the A/C is turned on. Hmmmm.

 

A/C update in case anyone's interested.

Had my car in to the dealer for other service and had them check the A/C system. Turned out to be a leaking condenser with no signs of rock or chip damage.

$592 plus tax to replace the condenser and recharge the system. Easily the biggest repair bill on this car to date.

 

Same problem as you on my 2018 LX. They put a dye in but when I went back they couldn't find the leak. Later, checking on my own with a UV light there seems to be an extremely slow leak at one the Schrader valves. Not much I can do about it at the moment until its worthwhile taking back.

 

Yikes, is this another problem area? Chances are my condenser had been leaking for awhile, but I'm already at 63K, long past warranty expiration. If yours is starting to leak and it's a 2018, chances are you'll be exactly where I was in a couple years, and that's not good. I'd take it back to the dealer and get as much as you can documented before the warranty expires. If you can show them the small leak, all the better.