Replace Push button start switch?
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 33
From: Easter Coaster
Replace Push button start switch?
2015 EX MTX
Anyone try to replace their starter button?
i looked at the Chilton Manual and it looks like a not fun involved operation, removing head unit, passenger dash panel, messing around srs components, climate control panels, etc. just to get the switch out.
ive seen on other cars it’s much more easily accessible, plug and play.
Is that the only way to go or is there an easier workaround? I did pull the panel off under the steering wheel and I can get to one side of the switch, but the other side no bueno.
if not I’ll call the dealership, not something I want to tackle right now,
Anyone try to replace their starter button?
i looked at the Chilton Manual and it looks like a not fun involved operation, removing head unit, passenger dash panel, messing around srs components, climate control panels, etc. just to get the switch out.
ive seen on other cars it’s much more easily accessible, plug and play.
Is that the only way to go or is there an easier workaround? I did pull the panel off under the steering wheel and I can get to one side of the switch, but the other side no bueno.
if not I’ll call the dealership, not something I want to tackle right now,
Yep, I've done it.
Nope! Not a complete breeze in the park. The HVAC controls, radio, center vents, and a few other bits need to come out.
A bit tedious and time consuming to do, especially with diminishing vision like mine... Be mindful when trying to remove the center A/C vents because you can mark up the dash padding easily even with plastic door panel tools. >.>
Nope! Not a complete breeze in the park. The HVAC controls, radio, center vents, and a few other bits need to come out.
A bit tedious and time consuming to do, especially with diminishing vision like mine... Be mindful when trying to remove the center A/C vents because you can mark up the dash padding easily even with plastic door panel tools. >.>
Last edited by Hootie; Oct 22, 2019 at 11:32 PM.
Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,074
From: Oregon
You know I love the convenience of Push Button Start and Keyless Entry.
Its really nice to just have your fob in your pocket and be able to enter and start your car by simply opening the door and pushing a button.
BUT....
I constantly worry about the system breaking down.
Que Old Man Voice:
In the old days, you might of had to use a key to open your doors, and a key to turn the ignition, but it was a pretty dependable system, with no batteries to go dead, no receivers to stop working, no fobs to be lost.
Basically if your ignition system was working, all you needed was a key, and they rarely broke, and if you lost one? Replacement was dirt cheap.
Someday, I know I'm going to try to enter my car, or start the car and have a problem. It's eventually inevitable. And at that time....usually fixing it ain't cheap.
Its really nice to just have your fob in your pocket and be able to enter and start your car by simply opening the door and pushing a button.
BUT....
I constantly worry about the system breaking down.
Que Old Man Voice:
In the old days, you might of had to use a key to open your doors, and a key to turn the ignition, but it was a pretty dependable system, with no batteries to go dead, no receivers to stop working, no fobs to be lost.
Basically if your ignition system was working, all you needed was a key, and they rarely broke, and if you lost one? Replacement was dirt cheap.
Someday, I know I'm going to try to enter my car, or start the car and have a problem. It's eventually inevitable. And at that time....usually fixing it ain't cheap.
New Member
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 12
From: Lithia
If you take the trim panel that goes around and under the steering off, you'll see an opening next to the switch.
Get a zip tie, and bend it so it has a curved shape. Feed that zip tie around the switch and tighten it when it's over the tabs. Push the tab you can see, with your finger while tightening the zip tie (it'll press the other tab).
At that point you can work the switch out of the dash. along the way you pull the cable out the back.
Install by sliding the switch partly in, plugging in the cable, and then pushing the switch in the rest of the way.
Get a zip tie, and bend it so it has a curved shape. Feed that zip tie around the switch and tighten it when it's over the tabs. Push the tab you can see, with your finger while tightening the zip tie (it'll press the other tab).
At that point you can work the switch out of the dash. along the way you pull the cable out the back.
Install by sliding the switch partly in, plugging in the cable, and then pushing the switch in the rest of the way.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 33
From: Easter Coaster
Ugh. Thanks man a tie wrap, that’s genius. I wish I would have known that earlier.
I took out the head unit, went ok just nerve racking pulling out the stereo and all the wires and plugs. Dang!
Hope that tip helps others!
I took out the head unit, went ok just nerve racking pulling out the stereo and all the wires and plugs. Dang!
Hope that tip helps others!
New Member
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 4
From: Carlsbad, New Mexico
If you take the trim panel that goes around and under the steering off, you'll see an opening next to the switch.
Get a zip tie, and bend it so it has a curved shape. Feed that zip tie around the switch and tighten it when it's over the tabs. Push the tab you can see, with your finger while tightening the zip tie (it'll press the other tab).
At that point you can work the switch out of the dash. along the way you pull the cable out the back.
Install by sliding the switch partly in, plugging in the cable, and then pushing the switch in the rest of the way.
Get a zip tie, and bend it so it has a curved shape. Feed that zip tie around the switch and tighten it when it's over the tabs. Push the tab you can see, with your finger while tightening the zip tie (it'll press the other tab).
At that point you can work the switch out of the dash. along the way you pull the cable out the back.
Install by sliding the switch partly in, plugging in the cable, and then pushing the switch in the rest of the way.
New Member
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 12
From: Lithia
Sorry for the late reply!
It's been a while since I did the fix, but I used a zip tie that was maybe around 10 inches long or so and bent it into a tight curl shape. I then fed it around the switch until it came back out. I can't remember if it was from above or below, but either way should work. you don't need to be centered over the tabs at this point. once around the switch, snug up the zip tie some and position it over the tab on the far side (opposite the one facing you). while tightening it against the far tab, press the near one with your finger. start working it out of the dash at this point. If it moves a little you're clear of the tabs.
As you pull the switch partly out you'll see the connector plug in back. Carefully remove that plug, and keep track of where it sits as you pull the switch out.
Slide the new switch in half way, plug in the wires and push it in the rest of the way and you're done.
Let me know if you still have trouble...?
It's been a while since I did the fix, but I used a zip tie that was maybe around 10 inches long or so and bent it into a tight curl shape. I then fed it around the switch until it came back out. I can't remember if it was from above or below, but either way should work. you don't need to be centered over the tabs at this point. once around the switch, snug up the zip tie some and position it over the tab on the far side (opposite the one facing you). while tightening it against the far tab, press the near one with your finger. start working it out of the dash at this point. If it moves a little you're clear of the tabs.
As you pull the switch partly out you'll see the connector plug in back. Carefully remove that plug, and keep track of where it sits as you pull the switch out.
Slide the new switch in half way, plug in the wires and push it in the rest of the way and you're done.
Let me know if you still have trouble...?
New Member
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 4
From: Carlsbad, New Mexico
Sorry for the late reply!
It's been a while since I did the fix, but I used a zip tie that was maybe around 10 inches long or so and bent it into a tight curl shape. I then fed it around the switch until it came back out. I can't remember if it was from above or below, but either way should work. you don't need to be centered over the tabs at this point. once around the switch, snug up the zip tie some and position it over the tab on the far side (opposite the one facing you). while tightening it against the far tab, press the near one with your finger. start working it out of the dash at this point. If it moves a little you're clear of the tabs.
As you pull the switch partly out you'll see the connector plug in back. Carefully remove that plug, and keep track of where it sits as you pull the switch out.
Slide the new switch in half way, plug in the wires and push it in the rest of the way and you're done.
Let me know if you still have trouble...?
It's been a while since I did the fix, but I used a zip tie that was maybe around 10 inches long or so and bent it into a tight curl shape. I then fed it around the switch until it came back out. I can't remember if it was from above or below, but either way should work. you don't need to be centered over the tabs at this point. once around the switch, snug up the zip tie some and position it over the tab on the far side (opposite the one facing you). while tightening it against the far tab, press the near one with your finger. start working it out of the dash at this point. If it moves a little you're clear of the tabs.
As you pull the switch partly out you'll see the connector plug in back. Carefully remove that plug, and keep track of where it sits as you pull the switch out.
Slide the new switch in half way, plug in the wires and push it in the rest of the way and you're done.
Let me know if you still have trouble...?
After that I tightened and pressed on the left side pin and was able to shimmy it out!
The connecting cable isn’t very long and I had to use my left hand to unclip and release. Once I did this I sprayed electrical cleaner into the female cable and then into the back of the ignition switch. I then applied a liberal amount of dielectric grease (about a quarter teaspoon for reference), let it dry for a few minutes then slid the button back in and used my left hand to reconnect the cable to the switch. VOILA! The car starts every single time with a single push.
$12 on Amazon for the Dielectric Grease and Electric Cleaner.
$16 on Alibaba for the new ignition switch (which I didn’t use and as of this posting hasn’t arrived yet, but I have it in my kit just in case!)
So for under $30 I was able to fix this myself and bypass Honda’s quote of $379! DIY or Die.
Also, I left the zip tie looped around the switch just in case!
New Member
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 4
From: Carlsbad, New Mexico
New Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 6
From: Milwaukee, WI
Went out and bought some longer ties (12”) got my right hand underneath the center panel and was able to thread the zip tie underneath the button then used my left hand pointer finger to grab the end of the tie and then zipped it together along the left side of the button.
After that I tightened and pressed on the left side pin and was able to shimmy it out!
The connecting cable isn’t very long and I had to use my left hand to unclip and release. Once I did this I sprayed electrical cleaner into the female cable and then into the back of the ignition switch. I then applied a liberal amount of dielectric grease (about a quarter teaspoon for reference), let it dry for a few minutes then slid the button back in and used my left hand to reconnect the cable to the switch. VOILA! The car starts every single time with a single push.
$12 on Amazon for the Dielectric Grease and Electric Cleaner.
$16 on Alibaba for the new ignition switch (which I didn’t use and as of this posting hasn’t arrived yet, but I have it in my kit just in case!)
So for under $30 I was able to fix this myself and bypass Honda’s quote of $379! DIY or Die.
Also, I left the zip tie looped around the switch just in case!
After that I tightened and pressed on the left side pin and was able to shimmy it out!
The connecting cable isn’t very long and I had to use my left hand to unclip and release. Once I did this I sprayed electrical cleaner into the female cable and then into the back of the ignition switch. I then applied a liberal amount of dielectric grease (about a quarter teaspoon for reference), let it dry for a few minutes then slid the button back in and used my left hand to reconnect the cable to the switch. VOILA! The car starts every single time with a single push.
$12 on Amazon for the Dielectric Grease and Electric Cleaner.
$16 on Alibaba for the new ignition switch (which I didn’t use and as of this posting hasn’t arrived yet, but I have it in my kit just in case!)
So for under $30 I was able to fix this myself and bypass Honda’s quote of $379! DIY or Die.
Also, I left the zip tie looped around the switch just in case!
Also I have experience with building/troubleshooting computers, etc - so feel like I can do the replacement from the notes you guys gave (thank you!) - however, forgive me for being a complete car newb - but what is exactly the "trim" that you take off to be able to partly access the button switch ?
Thanks!
New Member
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 12
From: Lithia
The trim is the panel that goes under and around the steering column. when you remove it look in there next to the switch. Its visible and accessible from there.
once I figured it out it took minutes to change...
With no information I can't tell you if the switch is correct. send a link?
once I figured it out it took minutes to change...
With no information I can't tell you if the switch is correct. send a link?
New Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 6
From: Milwaukee, WI
The trim is the panel that goes under and around the steering column. when you remove it look in there next to the switch. Its visible and accessible from there.
once I figured it out it took minutes to change...
With no information I can't tell you if the switch is correct. send a link?
once I figured it out it took minutes to change...
With no information I can't tell you if the switch is correct. send a link?
(Amazon link)
Also, wondering what the symptoms were for your push start problems - I checked fuses - one underneath the driver side and the one under the hood , "some" cabling/comnections to the RF receiver in the trunk, replaced car battery, replaced key fob battery (and took apart/cleaned key fob).
The rest of this fricken letter it seems I wrote here is a bit long, but trying to be detailed as possible, I wrote it with my cup of joe this morning, so bear with me!
I still have intermittent push start problems - the push start does "light up" correctly every time i enter the car and push the brake - so it seems with the key fob and RF reciever - everything "syncs" ok - although the wireless key indicator light has been on for awhile, usually all the time even when driving - occasionally it will turn off
Whether it be the push start switch or actual starter Idk.
Actual intermittent failure symptoms:
When I go to push start the car - (it has progressively gotten worse in the last 3 months or so - with no change in my driving habits, etc)
The usual course of events is :
1 - After a longer break of not driving (going to work the next day after it sits through the night), I push start - no response, I try again, and maybe it will just turn the electronics on w/o revving the actual "on/off style" starter.
2 - Then, after multiple attempts (I try to put pressure on different areas of the push start button - in some probably superstitious thinking that its a contact issue with the mechanical button itself) - the starter might start to revv, only with the engine to conk out right away. Almost like something just isn't "connecting" long enough to have the starter revv long enough to actuall start the engine (even though the starter has a very quick "all at once, on/off" starting-style revv - even this normal procedure seems to be shortened, so perhaps it isn't really an "engine conk out" - like, the engine starts and Then conks out -
its more like the starter doesn't go for long enough for the engine To start)
This 2nd intermittent step might happen a couple times, maybe once, maybe not at all.
3 - The car magically starts, with a simple push on/off style start - like the gods smiled down on me saying just kidding, your starter is fine, go to work like nothing happened. 🤪
From me coming from a computer/electronics troubleshooting background, there just doesn't seem to be a stand our reason for all the intermittent failing - other than perhaps the starter switch or starter itself - but who knows, maybe there's some connection/quality problem in the probable labyrinth of wiring in the car.
One intermittent symptom that Does seem to be steady is :
The more the car is driven, (and hence shorter periods of time for when I start the car back up), the starter failures seem to be less, and the car starts with less tries, sometimes even on the first push start try - especially if its like I walk away for a 10 minute errand or something.
I appreciate your guys' detailed messaging here for the DIYing - look forward to trying it!
Last edited by DIYhondafit2015EX; Jul 30, 2020 at 09:53 AM.
New Member
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 12
From: Lithia
Your symptoms are exactly like the ones I had when my switch went bad. Earlier I tried cleaning the contacts and reinstalling with no luck.
The switch was bad. Your amazon link is for an HRV model Honda. You'd think they are the same, but if they were, why is the P/N different?
Also it looks like this is a knock off copy. With all of the issues the OEM switches have, would I trust a cheap knock off for a different model? Nah...
The switch was bad. Your amazon link is for an HRV model Honda. You'd think they are the same, but if they were, why is the P/N different?
Also it looks like this is a knock off copy. With all of the issues the OEM switches have, would I trust a cheap knock off for a different model? Nah...
New Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 6
From: Milwaukee, WI
New Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 6
From: Milwaukee, WI
Update : FIXED !!
Hopefully it did the trick, it was a mad dash to get the problem solved before I went to work - as the symptoms were getting worse.
Got an electrical cleaner from home depot.
Got 14" zip tie also from depot.
Performed zip tie procedure, which while initially a little nerve racking - (bc I've never "operated" on my car before - and the fact you can't really see what you are doing - just feeling around for the push start switch) - despite that, it was incredibly easy! Managed to shape and then curl the zip tie top down aeound the switch, and then wiggle it out.
Unplugged the power connector - which had a plastic tab on the top end of it that you have to push down. Then gently (yet it takes some force) pull it out, without trying to pull on the wires. And then it was out!
I cleaned the contacts of the switch, and the power connector with the electrical cleaner. I then called a honda dealer to get a genuine honda push start switch part.
They had one in stock, so to be able to start my car and race down to get the part (all before my work shift started) - I didn't want to have to put the switch completely back in place, all to take it out again - my time was limited.
So I came up with this fix (shown in the photo) - took a good, thick shoe lace, tied and wrapped it around the switch a bunch of times so it wouldn't slide - and then connected the power connector, making sure the tabs on the push start switch couldn't lock back in, but there also wasn't any tension on the electrical wires of the power connector .
Flew down to the honda dealer and got the new switch.
Cleaned the new switches' contacts with the cleaner, and properly installed the new push start switch.
ONE more important step : that other peolle might want to try BEFORE REPLACING YOUR OLD PUSH START SWITCH.
I then thought : hmm...with all the intermittent failing - perhaps there is a contact issue withithe Key Fob !! Duh 🙄
I took the key fob apart - easy pieces that all snap back and fit together - I cleaned the battery contacts - the metal prong pieces - that look a little flattened - I bent them up a little, so as to make a firm connection to battery, where it makes it a little harder to push the battery back in.
Sure enough, with the new push start switch in, and the key fob modified/cleaned, the car started with one push on the button, and the wireless key fob indicator light was gone - its been a week since - and still no issues!
Unfortunately, due to the confluence of events of me replacing the push start first, and then checking the key fob - I am unable to tell which, if not both, contributed to my starter problems. :/
However, the cost of everything was Still cheaper than even my mechanic running just a diagnostic to figure out what the problem was - so I'll count my repair as a win!
Like stated before, if someone is experiencing the same symptoms as I was - try checking your key fob, and making sure your battery has a good, firm connection to the prongs the bend upwards (the prongs shouldnt be completely flat, pushed down).
As stated before, hope someone else reads this thread - and saves themselves some $$
Got an electrical cleaner from home depot.
Got 14" zip tie also from depot.
Performed zip tie procedure, which while initially a little nerve racking - (bc I've never "operated" on my car before - and the fact you can't really see what you are doing - just feeling around for the push start switch) - despite that, it was incredibly easy! Managed to shape and then curl the zip tie top down aeound the switch, and then wiggle it out.
Unplugged the power connector - which had a plastic tab on the top end of it that you have to push down. Then gently (yet it takes some force) pull it out, without trying to pull on the wires. And then it was out!
I cleaned the contacts of the switch, and the power connector with the electrical cleaner. I then called a honda dealer to get a genuine honda push start switch part.
They had one in stock, so to be able to start my car and race down to get the part (all before my work shift started) - I didn't want to have to put the switch completely back in place, all to take it out again - my time was limited.
So I came up with this fix (shown in the photo) - took a good, thick shoe lace, tied and wrapped it around the switch a bunch of times so it wouldn't slide - and then connected the power connector, making sure the tabs on the push start switch couldn't lock back in, but there also wasn't any tension on the electrical wires of the power connector .
Flew down to the honda dealer and got the new switch.
Cleaned the new switches' contacts with the cleaner, and properly installed the new push start switch.
ONE more important step : that other peolle might want to try BEFORE REPLACING YOUR OLD PUSH START SWITCH.
I then thought : hmm...with all the intermittent failing - perhaps there is a contact issue withithe Key Fob !! Duh 🙄
I took the key fob apart - easy pieces that all snap back and fit together - I cleaned the battery contacts - the metal prong pieces - that look a little flattened - I bent them up a little, so as to make a firm connection to battery, where it makes it a little harder to push the battery back in.
Sure enough, with the new push start switch in, and the key fob modified/cleaned, the car started with one push on the button, and the wireless key fob indicator light was gone - its been a week since - and still no issues!
Unfortunately, due to the confluence of events of me replacing the push start first, and then checking the key fob - I am unable to tell which, if not both, contributed to my starter problems. :/
However, the cost of everything was Still cheaper than even my mechanic running just a diagnostic to figure out what the problem was - so I'll count my repair as a win!
Like stated before, if someone is experiencing the same symptoms as I was - try checking your key fob, and making sure your battery has a good, firm connection to the prongs the bend upwards (the prongs shouldnt be completely flat, pushed down).
As stated before, hope someone else reads this thread - and saves themselves some $$
New Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 3
From: Albuquerque
ZIp tie for the win! I had to bend it a lot to get it to go around the switch body. It was a 30-40 min affair but that's better than taking the whole dash apart. A new switch and several min with the battery disconnected and a ton of starting gremlins went away. The key fob error light went out, the car powers on every time you push the button, and It starts! My wife and I were almost stranded a few times when the switch would not work. Thanks for the help everyone!