break fluid change
Honda shop keeps on recommending break fluid change every time i go for oil change. Is it necessary to change break fluid. They have coded it for every 30k miles. When i took it to reliable mechanic shop to do beak fluid, he refused it. He told me not to worry about it. I guess i will take it to his shop again instead of following honda shop recommendations. Any thoughts on this?
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Every 3 years is what's recommended. If someone is suggesting you do it every oil change they're trying to rip you off.
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Originally Posted by Brain Champagne
(Post 1441818)
Every 3 years is what's recommended. If someone is suggesting you do it every oil change they're trying to rip you off.
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If it's been five years and you've never done it then it's reasonable for them to keep reminding you.
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You can buy a brake fluid tester fairly cheaply from an automotive store or from Amazon. They measure the moisture content of your brake fluid. 1% to 2% water content is OK, 3% means time to change the fluid. That small amount of moisture in the brake fluid can cause a lot of damage. Brake fluid pulls water out of the air over time so the moisture content will just keep slowly going up. Honda has arbitrarily set 3 years as the time to change your fluid. Mileage is irrelevant. So, you can either just change it every three years as Honda recommends or you can measure and monitor the actual moisture content and change it when it starts approaching the 3% level.
I'm guessing that if you live in a dry area such as California or Arizona it will take longer for your brake fluid to become contaminated whereas if you live in a high humidity area like Florida this would happen much more quickly. |
I frequent exachage ther reservoir fluid and never really had very long term issues with brakes on my old cars.
I have been replacing my brake fluid now on a once-per-year basis in the fluid reservoir on my 1992 Acura Integra (1 owner & sold in 2017) and 2002 CR-V (1 owner sold in 2019). Brake fluid exchange (whole system) happened every ~ 3 years. Only on my CR-V did I have the rear/passenger-side caliper seize up - hey it lived its life bathed in salt in Minnesota and Northern states. |
Brake fluid is right up there with power steering fluid as a fluid that is neglected
Brake fluid is clear but turns darker over time. Look at the brake fluid reservoir, if you can readily see the level it needs to be changed. |
Originally Posted by Brain Champagne
(Post 1441818)
If someone is suggesting you do it every oil change they're trying to rip you off.
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Need help please, I'm doing rear shoes on a 2015 fit , got the passenger side after some self confusion got cleared up, went to do the drivers side and I can get the wheel cylinders to collapse, however not enough to get the drum back on it appears the adjuster is keeping it from closing enough to get the drum on. HELP
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Originally Posted by David Smith
(Post 1444184)
Need help please, I'm doing rear shoes on a 2015 fit , got the passenger side after some self confusion got cleared up, went to do the drivers side and I can get the wheel cylinders to collapse, however not enough to get the drum back on it appears the adjuster is keeping it from closing enough to get the drum on. HELP
Here's some text from chilton's./ I'll see if I can post the drawings. 1. Remove the tension pins (A) by pushing respective shoe clamp springs (B) and turning the pin. 2. Remove brake spring B, and remove the brake shoe assembly over the hub. 3. Remove the forward brake shoe (C) by removing brake spring A, and disassemble the brake shoe assembly. 4. Remove the rearward brake shoe (D) by disconnecting the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever (E). 5. Parking Brake Lever - Remove 1. Remove the U-clip (A), wave washer (B), and parking lever pin (C), and separate the parking brake lever (D) from the brake shoe (E). Installation CAUTION Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. Avoid breathing dust particles. Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner. NOTE: Keep grease away from the brake drum and the brake shoes. Refer to the Exploded View as needed during this procedure. 1. Install the parking brake lever (A) and the wave washer (B) on the parking lever pin (C), and secure with a new U-clip (D). NOTE: Pinch the U-clip securely to prevent the parking brake lever from coming out of the brake shoe (E). 2. Connect the parking brake cable to the parking brake lever. 2. Brake Shoe - Install 1. Apply a thin coat of Molykote 44 MA grease to the edge of the shoe surfaces (A) that contact the backing plate as shown. Wipe off any excess. NOTE: Keep grease off the brake linings. 2. Install connecting rod A and B on the adjuster bolt (C). NOTE: Clean the threaded portions of connecting rod A and the sliding surface of connecting rod B, then coat them with Molykote 44MA grease. Shorten connecting rod A by fully turning in the adjuster bolt. 3. Assemble the brake shoes, the brake spring A (D), and the connecting rods with the adjuster bolt against the backing plate, then install the adjuster lever (E) and the adjuster spring (F) on the forward brake shoe (G). 4. Install the brake spring B (H). NOTE: Make sure the brake shoe positioning on the brake shoe bosses of the backing plate, and fitting the top of the brake shoes onto the wheel cylinder pistons. 5. Install the tension pins (A) and the shoe clamp springs (B) by pushing in respective spring and turning each pin. 3. Brake Drum - Install 4. Rear Wheels - Install 5. Parking Brake - Adjust 1. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work and to set the self-adjusting brake. NOTE: Engagement of the brakes may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake shoes have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal stroke. 2. Adjust the parking brake. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...d0054cf593.jpg ID DIAGRAM https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...0ba248d93c.jpg BRAKE SHOE INSTALL 1 https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...7244a69e7f.jpg BRAKE SHOE INSTALL 2 https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...9e5895fb59.jpg BRAKE SPRING INSTALL https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...e19f4d3210.jpg PARKING BRAKE LEVER INSTALL https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...d91bf9bb02.jpg PARKING BRAKE LEVER REMOVE https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...3414fad7e5.jpg TENSION PINS 1 https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...81721d8a30.jpg TENSION PINS 2 |
Originally Posted by ritholtz
(Post 1441816)
Honda shop keeps on recommending break fluid change every time i go for oil change. Is it necessary to change break fluid. They have coded it for every 30k miles. When i took it to reliable mechanic shop to do beak fluid, he refused it. He told me not to worry about it. I guess i will take it to his shop again instead of following honda shop recommendations. Any thoughts on this?
Brake fluid absorb water. In Australian, Europe Mexico says t change it every 3 years. regarding milage. I did it myself. When I went to the dealer to ask about the size of the screw they told me they never ever bleed the fluid they just change it. Manual easy use dot 3, but honda only sells dot 4. So it is backwards compatible. You can youse dot 5.1 it is better but like 5 dollar more expsenvie. So yes, change the brake fluid, even tho it has not water fluid get contaminated (dark) so with all the psi you can destroy in the long run the hoses thus the abs system. If you are not going to change it every 3 years what you can do is with a syringe suck up all the old brake fluid and put new one. Without bleeding. Erick the car guy has done this procedure in honda veichle and says honda do it at the dealer. So you might be safe . |
Originally Posted by KikeDiaz
(Post 1445347)
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If you are not going to change it every 3 years what you can do is with a syringe suck up all the old brake fluid and put new one. Without bleeding. Erick the car guy has done this procedure in honda veichle and says honda do it at the dealer. So you might be safe . |
Originally Posted by Jazu
(Post 1441923)
I frequent exachage ther reservoir fluid and never really had very long term issues with brakes on my old cars.
I have been replacing my brake fluid now on a once-per-year basis in the fluid reservoir on my 1992 Acura Integra (1 owner & sold in 2017) and 2002 CR-V (1 owner sold in 2019). Brake fluid exchange (whole system) happened every ~ 3 years. Only on my CR-V did I have the rear/passenger-side caliper seize up - hey it lived its life bathed in salt in Minnesota and Northern states. That's good that you do the reservoir, but the fluid goes bad starting at the caliper from the brakes heat. I change my fluid every 2-3 years based on if just time or if I need the brakes done. When I autocross, I would do them every season in the spring. There would be a noticeable feel in the brake pedal before and after the fluid change. |
Originally Posted by KikeDiaz
(Post 1445347)
When I went to the dealer to ask about the size of the screw they told me they never ever bleed the fluid
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I agree - ABS and brake system need fresh fluid replenishment ~ 2 years once they're at the 30000 mile mark. I take out the fluid in the reservoir and replace it every year with fresh and every 2 years bleed the brakes. 17+ years on my CRV and many more on my Integra GS-R and never had to replace a caliper.
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Originally Posted by Jazu
(Post 1446637)
I agree - ABS and brake system need fresh fluid replenishment ~ 2 years once they're at the 30000 mile mark. I take out the fluid in the reservoir and replace it every year with fresh and every 2 years bleed the brakes. 17+ years on my CRV and many more on my Integra GS-R and never had to replace a caliper.
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Originally Posted by ritholtz
(Post 1441816)
Honda shop keeps on recommending break fluid change every time i go for oil change. Is it necessary to change break fluid
Originally Posted by ritholtz
(Post 1441816)
When i took it to reliable mechanic shop to do beak fluid, he refused it. He told me not to worry about it.
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Leave a shop that doesn't do what you ask. Prime Honda (Boston) said they rotated my tires when I picked up the car - I showed them in the Bay that my RED CLAY pen marks for FL (front left)...RR were unchanged. I made a big stink and had both the site Manager and Service Manager come out an apologize in front of everyone. I'll never return there. I've since purchased a Low Profile lift and learned to rotate my own tires AND did both my neighbors and now have cases of bubbly refreshment as a reward.
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Originally Posted by Jazu
(Post 1446709)
Leave a shop that doesn't do what you ask. Prime Honda (Boston) said they rotated my tires when I picked up the car - I showed them in the Bay that my RED CLAY pen marks for FL (front left)...RR were unchanged. I made a big stink and had both the site Manager and Service Manager come out an apologize in front of everyone. I'll never return there. I've since purchased a Low Profile lift and learned to rotate my own tires AND did both my neighbors and now have cases of bubbly refreshment as a reward.
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Originally Posted by Jazu
(Post 1446709)
I'll never return there. I've since purchased a Low Profile lift and learned to rotate my own tires AND did both my neighbors and now have cases of bubbly refreshment as a reward.
Put the b*st*rds out of business by doing it yourself (or, at least, having a fellow Fitfreaker do it for/with you). It troubles me that Honda has stopped selling Service Manuals. But I guess lots of things trouble me about the Honda of the last 10+ years. |
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