If properly grounded, then I would say its the Amp itself. Internal bad design. The thump is the inrush of current from the amps PSU filling up the capacitors inside. Once they are charged the circuit balances out and the amp should be quiet with no signal going to it. Not every cap gets charged equally and at the same time (talking milliseconds here) so that's where the thump comes from. The fact that you don't get a thump when you restart the car shortly after the first start up tells me its the residual charge in the caps not completely discharged by the internal bleed resistors.

The only thing I could think of is to power on all the components in their respective order first, then have a speaker enable relay that connects the amp to the speakers. If the amp is on before the speakers are connected, then in theory with everything properly booted up when the speakers connect there should be no thump.

 

Hi,

I beg forgiveness for the necro-post but I'm embarking on my 2k16 sub install, I've acquired all the plugs (might see if I can find a source of pins so I can have a space).

Do you have a link to the tool you were using to remove the pins?

It doesn't much look like a standard molex extractor will get these pins out

 

In my case, I made my own with a sliver of metal from air duct panel.

 

A sewing needle works too!!

 

For some reason I can’t post a for sale ad in the classified section. If anyone is interested in an audio control lcq-1 and the plug and play harness that was mentioned in this thread let me know. I also have the 555 timer relay. Just removed everything from my fit and traded it back to the dealer.

 

I'd buy your gear but we're a long way apart, it'd cost me as much shipping it as buying it and over here we call it a jazz

Finally got around to building the harness.



Now to order a lc2i from Melbourne because if I read correctly, no amount of sub will help with the stock headunit without the lc2i

edit.

Holy crap no, won't be ordering from anywhere in Australia, they took the "Australian Markup" and went wild - I'd expect to pay $100 here for something like this, not $199+

Amazon seems to be the way to go

 

@bassguitarist1985 Can you make harness for me to plug up to my 2018 honda fit oem head unit it. I just want a harness that I can add a amp to like basically a harness with a line out converter coming out of it. Or 2 RCA's if that makes since

 

I wish I could be of help, the harness is completely different from what others have told me on the 2018 vs 2015-2017. If I come across a service manual with a pinout I will post it

 

Thanks I've been looking all over for one so I can get my system going.

 

Hi, i need further clarification about retaining steering wheel control. Notice that A11,A22 & A23 for the pin connection. But which one for INPUT1 , INPUT 2 & GND.
Kindly refer photo below.

From Pioneer AVH W/R.

Thanks

 

Hey sorry quick question and sorry if i missed it, but what year Honda Fit did you put this build into?

 

2015 and 2017. The 2018 and newer is a completely different head unit with different pin out.

 

​​​​​​Not sure. Its a low voltage voltage circuit. You are on the right track. A11 is the GND, only two wires left to try. Trial and error. Once you figure it out please do share with the forum!

Bass

 

As of posting this, Metra does not have the proper harness parts listed on their site. The part# 70-1729 and 71-1729 are meant for 2015-2017 GK ONLY.

THEY WILL NOT WORK FOR THE 2018+ FIT GKS. The pinout and plug shape are different.

I spoke with Clay over at the tech line at Metra. No ETA when the proper harness connectors will be available. I will tell you that it has to do with a combo of sourcing the actual plug connectors from Honda, finding their supplier of the connector, and then Metra's engineering department to draw up plans for a co packer to make the harness' themselves. Without a time scale its anyone's guess.

I cannot help on the plug harness unfortunately. I do however have the pinout diagram for the 2018+ Head Units! Its a 6 page document, but only have to deal with one connector for the speaker outputs for external amps and signal processors. Some of the other connectors are not used or used if you have navigation and/or XM Radio. Cutting into the factory harness is not a route I would go, but if done right, it can be an option...


2018+ Audio Connector A, 24 pin Part 01

2018+ Audio Connector A, 24 Pin, Part 02

 

Thanks again, Bassguitarist!

For those that may not know, I can confirm (after pulling apart my own panels) that the 2018s have a completely different harness (check my posts). As Bassguitarist had already mentioned, cutting the harness is not the way I would want to go either. I'll wait for the proper adapters to be manufactured. Its only a matter of time at this point. 2019s are already arriving.

 

All very true facts, but no ETA from Metra. Clay and Anthony Crowder from their tech dept made it sound to me that they were nowhere near close to having a deliverable. I despise cutting into the harness myself, but those 2018+ owners may not want to wait.

 

I'm waiting. I ended up returning the amp and Lci7. Turns out audio control makes an amp that combines both a 4 channel amp and lci7 features.

In the meantime, I just had the infamous waterleak issue a few weeks ago that I have to take care of. Dealership was useless in diagnosing. So the sound project is on hold until I seal up these doors.

 

It is works for audio control. And correct A11=GND, A22= INPUT1, A23= INPUT2. But no button illumination for both audio control and cruise control. Anything that i missed out?
Anyone has pin out diagram for 20Pin connector to steering clock spring?

Female 20Pin connector to back side steering's Clock Spring.

Brown-Audio Control Switch, Blue-Cruise Control, Grey-Either Sire/Call button, Black- Horn

 

Metra now shows that the 70-1731 and 71-1731 part numbers will work for the 2018+ Fits with the refresh body style and updated HU? Can anyone confirm? Pictures of the HU?

 

I posted about my efforts maybe a year ago using your guide. I was foiled because the 2018s were different plugs altogether. These might be the correct adapters if I try again. Turns out the 2018s share the connectors from the 2017 Civics.