Any experience with Drag wheels?
Any experience with Drag wheels?
I've been looking at wheels recently, and I'm on a bit of a tight budget (preferably under 600, 700 MAX). For a month or so, I've made my mind on XXR 530 17x7 +35, but after finding a set of XXR 527 17x7.5 +40 on FB marketplace (will likely be sold before i have a chance), I've started to open up my options. The Drag DR-19 17x7.5 +42, DR-31 and DR-63 both 17x7 +40 have caught my eye.
Considering these will be going on a daily that won't see a single track day and maybe one or two autox events at most, are these wheels a decent choice? I'm going to be lowered on H&R Sport springs really soon and rubbing won't be much of a worry for me.
Considering these will be going on a daily that won't see a single track day and maybe one or two autox events at most, are these wheels a decent choice? I'm going to be lowered on H&R Sport springs really soon and rubbing won't be much of a worry for me.
I’ve had 3 sets of Drag wheels over the years, and they have all been good. They’re not as light as racing wheels, but they’re nicely priced. For street use, they work great. I currently have a set of DR-21 in 15x7, and they are actually a few pounds lighter than advertised, which was a nice surprise.
They’re fine. They probably won’t hurt anything.
personally I support the people that come up with original wheel designs rather than those simply make lower quality replicas
Also, used wheels are cheaper than replicas
Double also...you don’t have to get new wheels. OEM are perfectly fine
personally I support the people that come up with original wheel designs rather than those simply make lower quality replicas
Also, used wheels are cheaper than replicas
Double also...you don’t have to get new wheels. OEM are perfectly fine
They’re fine. They probably won’t hurt anything.
personally I support the people that come up with original wheel designs rather than those simply make lower quality replicas
Also, used wheels are cheaper than replicas
Double also...you don’t have to get new wheels. OEM are perfectly fine
personally I support the people that come up with original wheel designs rather than those simply make lower quality replicas
Also, used wheels are cheaper than replicas
Double also...you don’t have to get new wheels. OEM are perfectly fine
I've been looking at wheels recently, and I'm on a bit of a tight budget (preferably under 600, 700 MAX). For a month or so, I've made my mind on XXR 530 17x7 +35, but after finding a set of XXR 527 17x7.5 +40 on FB marketplace (will likely be sold before i have a chance), I've started to open up my options. The Drag DR-19 17x7.5 +42, DR-31 and DR-63 both 17x7 +40 have caught my eye.
Considering these will be going on a daily that won't see a single track day and maybe one or two autox events at most, are these wheels a decent choice? I'm going to be lowered on H&R Sport springs really soon and rubbing won't be much of a worry for me.
Considering these will be going on a daily that won't see a single track day and maybe one or two autox events at most, are these wheels a decent choice? I'm going to be lowered on H&R Sport springs really soon and rubbing won't be much of a worry for me.
If I were talking to my younger-self, I would have told myself to save a little more and get real wheels that will last forever and keep their value. Go buy a used set of Enkei RPF1s if you're trying to save. Maybe some O.Z. wheels. They still look good and are light. If you look you can find good deals on FB groups or on here. Or save for the wheels you really want and you'll be so happy when you finally get them.
I would not autoX with Drag wheels personally. The other thing is, if you really like AutoX, then you will eventually go to the race track. And then you'll really want nice light wheels you feel confident with.
Like I said, this is all coming from experience. It's your money and your choice, but it's always smart to do it right the first time.
If a wheel is going to get bent/broken on the street, it's more likely to be a lightweight alloy racing wheel than a street oriented facsimile.
I've been on DR-31's for a year. I went 15's as the sidewall helps with shitty roads, they're lighter, and there's decent tire choices. They ended up 1/2 lb lighter per wheel compared to the steelies despite 20mm wider tires.
I've hit giant potholes, hooked the rear on broken pavement, and plowed through a corner hard enough to nearly roll the front outside rim into the ground. They work just fine.
I've been on DR-31's for a year. I went 15's as the sidewall helps with shitty roads, they're lighter, and there's decent tire choices. They ended up 1/2 lb lighter per wheel compared to the steelies despite 20mm wider tires.
I've hit giant potholes, hooked the rear on broken pavement, and plowed through a corner hard enough to nearly roll the front outside rim into the ground. They work just fine.
Could you please explain a little what you mean with original wheel designs? Are the praised Enkei, BBS or Volk original or replica?
Last edited by TnTkr; Jun 22, 2020 at 07:55 AM.
Drag and XXR.
If I recall correctly each may have some ‘original’ designs but outside of the replicas I can’t say I’ve really seen any of their wheel options. They’re not my tastes so I just try to avoid their existence.
If I recall correctly each may have some ‘original’ designs but outside of the replicas I can’t say I’ve really seen any of their wheel options. They’re not my tastes so I just try to avoid their existence.
If a wheel is going to get bent/broken on the street, it's more likely to be a lightweight alloy racing wheel than a street oriented facsimile.
I've been on DR-31's for a year. I went 15's as the sidewall helps with shitty roads, they're lighter, and there's decent tire choices. They ended up 1/2 lb lighter per wheel compared to the steelies despite 20mm wider tires.
I've hit giant potholes, hooked the rear on broken pavement, and plowed through a corner hard enough to nearly roll the front outside rim into the ground. They work just fine.
I've been on DR-31's for a year. I went 15's as the sidewall helps with shitty roads, they're lighter, and there's decent tire choices. They ended up 1/2 lb lighter per wheel compared to the steelies despite 20mm wider tires.
I've hit giant potholes, hooked the rear on broken pavement, and plowed through a corner hard enough to nearly roll the front outside rim into the ground. They work just fine.
One of the biggest differences of quality brands is forged vs cast production. The manufacturing process of most brand name wheels (not all) is forging—making them much light and stronger than cast wheels.
look it up, there’s plenty of reading material out there.
Like I said before, doing this for 17 years and owning all types of wheels fake and real, buy something that will last. If you do it right the first time and you won’t have to do it again.
It’s worth saving that little bit extra. Find a used set.
I never said they won’t work. Any wheel will “work”. But if you hit a pot hole that will bend a nice forged wheel, it will most likely break a crappy one. Cheap wheels are made poorly with cheaper materials. That’s really what it comes down to.
One of the biggest differences of quality brands is forged vs cast production. The manufacturing process of most brand name wheels (not all) is forging—making them much light and stronger than cast wheels.
look it up, there’s plenty of reading material out there.
Like I said before, doing this for 17 years and owning all types of wheels fake and real, buy something that will last. If you do it right the first time and you won’t have to do it again.
It’s worth saving that little bit extra. Find a used set.
One of the biggest differences of quality brands is forged vs cast production. The manufacturing process of most brand name wheels (not all) is forging—making them much light and stronger than cast wheels.
look it up, there’s plenty of reading material out there.
Like I said before, doing this for 17 years and owning all types of wheels fake and real, buy something that will last. If you do it right the first time and you won’t have to do it again.
It’s worth saving that little bit extra. Find a used set.
Any wheel made exclusively for racing will compromise durability for light weight. Look at how many off track excursions have broken lightweight wheels from the side load alone. Everything is a compromise.
A big pothole can kill any wheel, especially oversize wheels with low profile tires. The forged will bend and cast will crack. They're all junk all the same at that point.
Any wheel made exclusively for racing will compromise durability for light weight. Look at how many off track excursions have broken lightweight wheels from the side load alone. Everything is a compromise.
Any wheel made exclusively for racing will compromise durability for light weight. Look at how many off track excursions have broken lightweight wheels from the side load alone. Everything is a compromise.
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