I'm wondering if there are options for upgrading the brake master cylinder on an '07 Fit Sport. Currently my car is getting a lot of track use and the pedal is a bit too soft for my liking. Motul RBF600 fluid properly bled, the integra Type R front brake kit with RockAuto's Power stop track day pads and '08 Mini Cooper vented 10" rotors. Stoptech stainless steel braided lines up front (which actually made the pedal softer than the rubber lines... yes, that's correct, softer - not quite sure why). Stock drums in back and currently stock master cylinder. I know for a GE9, there's a bolt-on larger master cylinder from a CR-Z or something like that. Is there something like that for the GD3? Looking for a firmer pedal to inspire a bit more confidence under braking.

Thanks,

Matt

 

Booster delete?

 

I’m pretty sure Honed Performance is developing a delete kit for the GD3 Fit. But I don’t have a timeframe for which it’ll be ready for purchase.

 

I haven't done it myself. But I remember reading that a late 90's Accord master is a bolt in replacement that has a larger piston. That should solve the soft pedal problem.

Search on this forum. I'm sure that I read that on here.

-Bill

 

interesting. Anyone else confirm this? I’m gonna do some more digging.

 

15/16” brake master cylinder from 1998 to 2002 Honda Accord LX as per Seamus from TCS. I have it in my car and it works great. It's not a 100% plug and play deal as you will have to change the flares on your hard lines, but it all lines up nicely. I also have a rear disc conversion.

Check out my thread for my full list of brake modifications:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...vin-s-gd3.html

 

Is it worth the effort to flare the lines to get the firmer pedal?

 

I mean, if the soft pedal is bugging you, which it seems like it is, it's either:
- make the effort and have the firmer pedal
- live with your soft pedal

I think "worth it" is subjective to each person. To me, it was absolutely worth it. To others, it might not be worth it at all. I had the soft pedal, too, and the larger BMC made a world of difference.

 

What does 'changing the flares' on the lines entail?

 

Good question. I second this...

 

Check out "brake line flare tool" for a better understanding. The ends of the brake lines have a flare (there is more than one style). You need to change the flare to correspond to the new brake master cylinder.

 

Fun part from about 6 minutes in

IMO way too much work for an old econobox if it's just a daily. And I never really had an issue with the more progressive brakes on the Fit or the Miata, even racing. Kind of prefer to the German style which seems to be to throw your face into the steering wheel the moment you touch the pedal.

 

As mentioned above, you can use the master cylinder from a 1998 4 cylinder ABS equipped Accord. It will give you a 1" piston to push more fluid.

You will need to swap over your reservoir and cut off the factory fittings and re-flare the lines as our Fit's have a European style DIN/bubble flare and it will need to be switched to the more common SAE/double flare.

I made the swap several years ago and it works fine. It's probably not needed unless you do something like I did and go to disc rear brakes and larger front calipers.

 

Hi Matt!

As we previously discussed in emails, I have an ITR 1" master in my car and making it fit was a bit of a pain due to having to flare the lines.

Most older Hondas use double flare lines and the Fit uses bubble flares which are not compatible with the larger master cylinders from the older cars.
There are adapters out there, but people have had mixed results with them and it's not something that I'd personally trust on a race track. It involves cutting the lines as close to the factory fittings as possible, sliding the correct fitting onto the line, flaring the end of the line, and then tweaking the line to fit the new master cylinder properly.

Was it worth the effort? Absolutely, my brakes feel amazing and it's one of my favorite things about the car.
Was it a huge pain in the derriere? Yes.
Were wrenches thrown in the process due to frustration? Quite possibly.
Would I do it again if I got another Fit? You betcha. ​​​​

 

Good to know. Thanks for the input. I think for now, we’re gonna try some G-loc brake pads. They should last a bit longer and have better heat capacity than the RockAuto pads. We’ll see how the pedal feels on track and decide from there. After thinking it over a bunch, I’m guessing I just overcooked the RA pads. If anyone knows Blackhawk Farms Raceway in northern IL, then you know how unforgiving it is on brakes.

 

The worst part of the job for us was removing the hard plastic coating on the factory brake lines in order to properly flair the ends. I removed the coating and the wife did the actual flaring because it's something she does at work fairly regularly.

We tried the adapter method first, but they leaked.

 

That is my thought as well after returning and finally getting my 1:34 there.
The Powerstop pads have been great just about everywhere else, but Blackhawk is crazy hard on brakes and from everyone I've talked to the G-loc pads perform a lot better, last longer, and dust less.
While more than triple the amount of money, they sound like a worthwhile upgrade.

 

I used a razor blade and then wire wheel on a drill (took the lines off the car entirely, made the process much easier) and it did the trick.
I coated the bare line with POR-15 after installation was completed to protect them and make it look like factory.

 

Razor blade, sand paper, and Krylon done on the car was our method. I should have taken the lines off. Going in I didn't realize how stubborn that plastic would be.

We are lucky to live in a rust free area, but I better keep an eye on the spray paint also.

 

I'm in the process of upgrading my master as well, what tools did you use to get the job done while the lines were still on the car ? I'm finding it very hard to find tools for the tight space.