Hi! I just bought an ‘11 Sport. We took out the stock radio and put in an Alpine ILX-507 with accompanying Alpine HCE-C1100 backup camera and using the Alpine license plate frame to mount it.

Every component has the install covered across multiple guides except that plate frame. Head unit and reverse camera are both working fine. But the frame includes LEDs since the mounting point blocks the existing license plate lights. We connected the LED wires to the existing license plate lights using wire taps. Worked at first! But very shortly after the DRLs, marker lights and license plate lights (both), stopped. We’re also not getting any power down the wires according to our circuit tester. The fuse, #29 according to forum member HONDAMATIC in a similar post from 2009, is fine. All the fuses are fine in fact.

So like, what else can we check? We don’t know how to check the switch listed on the electrical diagram (thank you for stickying the manual!), but we don’t
know if it’s relevant either.

 

Be sure to test your fuses with a multimeter, not just by your eyes.

 

We did. It’s a lot faster to test them that way than it is to pull them out one by one…

Also replaced fuse 29 regardless, so it’s a new fuse now.

 

Small update: The DRLs are actually working. Maybe harness damage? Bad ground is still definitely possible. At least I know it’s not the whole circuit. I’ll keep working on it when the weather lightens up.

 

Did you try unhooking the radio and the wires you tapped then putting the wiring back to the way it was ? Maybe the radio has a bad component, if you didn’t have a problem before you installed this stuff and you have one now it’s likely the parts you installed causing the failure. There is an illumination and dimmer wire connected to the radio as well, did you use the correct jumper harness or cut and connect the wires?

Is it possible the back up camera lights are only supposed to come on when you’re backing up?

 

We’re not actually having any issues with the radio associated wiring. The reverse lights work fine. We used Crutchfields harness service. The license plate lights are only relevant because of a license plate frame that came in at the very end of everything else.

I do plan on redoing the associated wire taps this weekend though.

 

Uh, so we blew all the bulbs, but not the fuse. Hence the confusion. Everything works again, although I need to replace the license plate frame. This time we’re tapping the cigarette lighter fuse for power and grounding on the hatch so it can’t take everything out.

This will also leave the original license plate wiring working as intended, just need to replace the bulbs whenever I pull the frame off.

Swapped everything to LED this weekend. Headlights aren’t even terrible tbh, not a crisp cutoff like a proper projector but the light really doesn’t stray far.

The door light needs a resistor or a higher quality to mitigate the lower voltage after closing your doors. The ones I bought work just fine for the overhead lights but buzz on the door light with the voltage change.

really sad I don’t have the cup holder light

But fog lights will be done tonight! Going yellow for old times.