My mpg was drifting lower, so I checked the free rotation of the tires. Rears were good. Both fronts were resistive, so I took apart, cleaned, and lubed the caliper and pads. To get the pads back in, I had to use a hammer to tap them in. Are the pads supposed to be that tight of a fit? I would think the pads should have a bit of room to move so they wouldn't drag on the disc, but even after cleaning, the pads are a tight fit and I don't see how they can move much at all.

 

Did you replace the pads? Did you clean and lube the slide pins?
If you're in a rust area, both the "ears" on the pads and the bracket where the pads sit can corrode. Either would add resistance to pad movement. Similarly, if your slide pins get sticky the brakes won't work correctly. Having said that, in my experience the pads are always pretty snug in the brackets and just barely touch the rotors at all times. Some replacement pads (for my 2010) come with a small spring to help separate the pads. I use it but don't see how it would do much.

 

Same pads. I took a wire brush and cleaned the pad ears, the removable metal brackets the ears fit into (soap and water for this), and the caliper bracket that the metal brackets fit into. I had to take a hammer and screwdriver to get the damn pads out. I figured after cleaning, the pads would slide in easier. Nope.

I am in the rust belt (Vermont). I gave the parts a good scrub because of the rust.

 

What you're describing doesn't sound all that different from what I've seen on different cars. Everything has to be reasonably tight-fitting or you would get unwanted noise and vibration, both when the wheels were turning without the brakes engaged as well as when you use the brakes.

When the brakes (front or rear) are adjusted correctly there should be a bit of drag.

 

I recently changed the front brake pads and discs on my 2007 Honda Fit. As it has ABS, there is a procedure to be done before removing the pads which basically consists of slowly opening the brake fluid bleeder as you move the brake fluid away. brake pads. Once this is done, you have to remove the brake calipers and make that hydraulic piston return completely and, in the same way, slowly open the brake fluid bleeder. This way, the pads, once installed in the calipers, couple to the brake disc without any effort. This procedure will avoid excessive fluid pressure in the calipers, preventing the pads from being installed in forced contact with the disc. It is extremely important to lubricate the sliding pins as mentioned above by Drew 21

 

kinosh, you never EVER Need a hammer to install brake pads LOL. sounds like you didnt bother to compress the brake pistons but just forced the pads back in after you "cleaned" them. this is how you properly do a brake job.

first you remove the brake calipers , held in by two bolts that go into the brake caliper bracket. now you can pop off the brake pads. take note the two sliding pins, those should move freely. they should be free of dirt, rust and/or old crusty grease. clean them nicely and use brake lube. now you must compress the pistons back in caliper. if the brake pistons are heavily seized, you will prob need new calipers. if not you can kinda clean it , apply a little brake lube where pistons are exposed and see if that will free up the piston. basically it sounds like your pistons and/or brake pins are seizing and need attention. basically your previous attempt did nothing.

now clean the surface where the brake pad ears sit, it needs to be free of dirt, rust and old grease. apply light coat of brake grease here, brake pads will ride on it as it moves. put light coat of brake grease where piston contacts back of the pad. put caliper back w 2 pads and reinsert the clean and lubed brake pins. reinstall the bolts to secure the calipers.

you welcome