Hello, I have only changed the shocks and the serpentine belt once on my '09 fit sport trim. Besides the AC, and the regular oil change and filters (Amsoil signature and filter) this is pretty much it. Forgot I put ceramic brakes...

Since I will be changing the serpentine belt, I thought about changing the tensioner.
The water pump really should be changed, correct? And since I am at it, change the thermostat?
I just bought some spark plugs (never changed those either).
I probably also need to change the oil for the transmission (manual stick shift car btw).
The starter starts to stick a bit but I think I will wait and the clutch is fine.

Pretty incredible car!

Thanks for the suggestions. If possible, sourcing these parts from Amazon . I will drive it for some trips pulling my boat (nano skiff) from Florida to Cape cod. And around south Florida .

 

Rock Auto.

Search the web for a 5 % discount code.

 

I've got time this morning ~
If you're planning to tow, be sure to check out the brakes, tie rod inners and outers, and other alignment components like anti-roll bar end-links, lower control arm bushings, ball joints (can just replace the lower control arms for ~$60 a piece for Moog - been running those for.. 4 or 5 years? Maybe 6.) wheel bearings.

I wouldn't worry much about the water pump. If you haven't put hose water through your cooling system, had an instance of overheating, and it's running quietly, it's likely fine in my opinion. Water pumps are a bigger deal on rear-wheel-drive engines, wherein they double them up with the radiator fan. It's practical and all, but oscillations from the fan exert force on the water pump, making pump leaks and bearing play commonplace. I quite prefer the FWD method of using electric fans.

A thermostat from a reputable brand would likely be wise before towing much. Suspension would be a reasonable and enjoyable consideration if you have some extra cash.

The clutch will let you know if it has problems with towing ~ if yours made it to 250k miles, you must be quite good to it. But if you're having trouble switching any gears, look no further. Transmission fluid, however, is another matter. Not sure where you're at with servicing that. If it's never been done, and there are no problems, I'd likely leave it or put in a heavyweight fluid like redline's MTL should you decide to change it. It's old gearbox friendly.
I've also heard good things about motul, but haven't tried it. Most folks just stick with Honda, and that's fine too.

If you're doin your own services or have a cheap shop, throw in a valve adjustment, some fresh plugs *torqued to 20 ft.lbs*. Get some extra blue clips from amazon for the windshield cowl if you head that way.

Cold start noise can be resolved with a $80 TYC brand permanent magnet starter, or you could stick with the gearbox OEM style and get the WAI Global version. (caution, annoying job).

If you don't want to get into all that mess: steering, alignment, brakes, maybe a thermostat, maybe a clutch.

Refer to @Frenzal 's post for getting the stuff, you'll pay less and have less trouble. For example, the WAI Global starter on rockauto is 120, on amazon, 213. The TYC is only 10$ more on amazon, but 2 out of 5 reviewers said they got a lemon.
​​​​​​Mind the shipping fees though. Stuff indicated to ship together by a little truck icon (once you add the first item to your cart) will save you quite a bit, but the stuff marked with hearts is what everyone buys and is most satisfied with.

 

+2

The water pump that's in the car already is probably a better item than anything you can get today in the aftermarket. Replace it now, and you might be replacing it again a year from now.

Fortunately water pumps usually give some clues when they start to go bad (bearing noise, leaking coolant, etc) so it won't be a total surprise.

 

Thanks. I am not leaking any coolant and no noise I can hear. I think I will be leaving it alone. Thanks!

 

Thanks so much for the write up and the time. I have towed with the fit from time to time but I got a nano skiff now which is only 150 pounds dry hull and with a 80 pounds outboard. So, with the trailer, I don't feel I am trailering anything.

I forgot to mention I changed the shocks and struts at about 180k miles. So, I believe I am good. I have done the alignment when I changed my tires 5 months ago. So, good here too.

Looks like the water pump should be left alone and I probably will leave the thermostat alone for now. The car does not overheat and I am not losing any coolant. I grew up in Africa and I always carried with me a portable circulation pump in case my suzuki samurai would have issues with this pump while driving off road. If I do have an issue, I should be OK with just calling AAA and get it replaced.

Clutch is fine (a bit shorter travel on the pedal than origina but the gears shift smooth, even when using the gear brakes, which I use a lot).

Starter is OK although it sticks from time to time on the morning. I can always push the car in second gear if issues or use other tricks. But if easy to change, I think I would change it. Do you have the part # at rock auto?

So, I believe I will just change the tensioner, the serpentine belt (has about 130k miles on it) and the spark plugs (already bought with the torque wrench and anti seize). Change my coolant (original, never had to top it off).

I hope to keep that car until it dies and saw that some had already over 400k miles on theirs. So, I am hopeful to hit that mark too.

Cheers to all.

 

Right on. I was just working for and with a guy from Namibia. He's a real practical fellow. Preferred the less-fuss approach. It's not quite my way, but I respect it and the clever methods he had for keeping his vehicles going.

I'll add, having forgot about the tensioner, just observe your serpentine belt for wobbles as the engine is running. The Fit's tensioner is the stiffest I've messed with, so I'd be more concerned about the belt snapping and the bearings getting noisy than about the tensioner itself giving up.

Rather than replace my tensioner, I just pressed a new bearing into it when it started howling - It's doing great. The part number for that is forgotten, but should be found in a thread here about replacing the belt tensioner bearing.

The TYC part number for the starter is 119013
The WAI Global part number is 19013N
The OEM/generic part search number should be 31200RB1013, but you can contact the dealer to verify.
There's threads for starter replacement expressing several different methods for accomplishing the task, so you have options. All of them are pretty good.

Good luck

 

Thank you all! :-)

 

If not done yet, you need to do a valve adjustment while doing the spark plugs.

 

I was looking into it too. Looks like that the cost varies a lot. Is it a DIY thing? How difficult is it?

 

I know I couldn't afford to pay for a valve adjustment. I'd expect it to cost around 800 from what I've heard. It's not the worst diy job, particularly with help from the service manual. the wiper arms come off, then the hood hinge covers get pried and popped out, the upper plastic cowl along the base of the windshield (disconnect wiper fluid line from reservoir) is the hardest part. then the wiper motor, or leave it attached to the metal cowl, unbolt the metal cowl, and viola, you're at the valve cover.

A couple youtube videos, a set of angled feeler/tappet gauges that include appropriate sizes for intake and exhaust, a tube of hondabond, one fresh razor, rubbing alcohol, a shop towel, a plastic/non-marring pry tool kit, and prolly some spare blue clippies for said plastic cowl. 3/8 or 1/4 drive ratchet with extensions, maybe a wobble or u-joint for the metal cowl, and just a few metric sockets. I think 8, 10, and 14 for the wiper arms. Might as well be deepwell. An appropriate torque wrench with a 10mm crow's foot (I think) for tightening the valve's nuts. Maybe throw in a new valve cover gasket if you don't want to pick silicone off the old one.. and I use 3m burgundy/red brown very fine scuff pads for the cylinder head to timing cover mating surface joints.

A youtube video would help put all those pieces together. It's a good introductory job for moving beyond replacing a battery or removing a bumper. A good teaching job.
If you go for it, don't drop a nut or snap a bolt, and be prepared to do it again based on your interpretation of the words "slight drag".

Thats my favorite part of the lesson - taking it all apart again because I forgot ______.

 

I had a valve adjustment done by a dealer before I bought my Fit in 2018 (car is an 09). They charged $230.

 

Thanks. I did watch videos after I answered and it seems pretty easy and straightforward. Definitely DIY although I do not hear anything wrong when my engine is running (no clicks).

 

When I did mine, I couldn't hear anything either and all my exhaust valves were out of spec. These engines really need the valve adjustment.

 

Highly recommend the MT fluid change. @ ~115k, shifts engage sway smoother. I did not realize at the time but it felt like I was getting lazy with my shifting and getting bumpy engagements like when I was 16 learning to drive manual on a 1/2 ton pickup. I was also getting a high failure rate at getting into reverse on 1 try. Now I'm back to 100% success rate.