I installed a Moroso oil separator on my 2016 EX 6MT using two hex head stainless cap screws, nylon hex lock nuts and flat washers.

There was half a teaspoon of oil in the separator at 150 miles. It works as expected!
The larger Moroso oil separator on my 2007 Tacoma 2.7L 4x4 captured two and a half teaspoons of oil at 700 miles.

Parts List:

Moroso universal small oil separator anodized black: 85497

Moroso 3/8” to 3/8” 90 degree fitting (2): 65382
(the 85497 is supplied with 1/2" fittings. If you want
to use the smaller Honda PCV hose order 65382)

Honda PCV hose: 17131-5R1-000

Honda PCV hose clamps (2): 95002-41250-04

 

What is the purpose of the oil separator. I've never heard of this.

 

hopefully it stops the oil from being ingested into the intake and forming deposits which on a GDI engine are not washed off by fuel. Its a good idea. but fairly expensive!..but probably cheap insurance. We will see in 8 years or less if its required! I was planning to do thsi but havent got round to it yet, its pretty tight in our engine compartment.

 

Thanks for posting that, have considered adding one, but, looking at the tight dimensions of the engine bay, said "....some day, maybe." Looks like a nice clean install. Might do this one o' these days

 

I'd be interested in doing this. Thanks for posting. How hard would you say the job was assuming one has the skill set of a novice mechanic?

 

Fairly simple with the right tools. Drilling the two mounting holes for the separator mounting bracket was the most difficult. With minimal clearance for drilling from the intake manifold side of the engine, I used a right angle chuck adapter (DWARA100) on my Dewalt cordless drill. You can find them at Lowe's and Home Depot for a reasonable price and it should fit any cordless drill hex drive.

I used a small diameter short drill bit that fits the hex drive to make a starter hole. That hole was then enlarged with a Dremmel motor tool with a right angle chuck adapter and grinding bit. The 5mm diameter threads of the hex head stainless cap screws then fit the hole. I touched up the area of exposed metal with Honda touch-up paint. You could do all of the drilling/grinding with either a cordless drill or Dremmel as described. You can find a small hex drive grinding bit to fit your cordless drill or small drill bit for the Dremmel.

 

According to Pat Goss of Motor Week, an unnecessary mod/expense unless you drive the car like a race car WOT. IMHO.

 

The same could be said of many mods

 

True enough. Enhance the looks, improve the handling, the interior, the audio, the performance. All can be very expensive and one's monetary and esthetic limits vary from person to person. Knew a guy in the dark ages who had a 1956 Ford Crown Victoria, one with a chrome basket handle and a transparent roof over the front. Black and white two tone. First the tires, then the exhaust. The 292 V8 gave way to a 312, then a 352, followed by a 390, and finally (I think) a 427. Suspension mods as needed (wanted), tires of course, new paint as the years passed. It went like stink, handled like a pig, and was to all that view it, a 1956 Ford.

As always, YMMV on in that case, his lusts were fixated on that Ford.

 

Here is what Pat Goss actually said in the "Motorweek" segment on engine oil separators:

Wow, there’s a lot of chatter out there about a new form of deposits that can form in the intake manifolds of cars. It seems that a lot of technicians are calling these GDI deposits. Well, GDI is gasoline direct injection, and they’re blaming it on the direct injection. But, I think it’s something different. I think that it has to do with low tension, or low friction piston rings that are used on virtually all cars these days. Because the piston rings don’t expand and push against the cylinder walls as hard as older ones did, they are more susceptible to deposits forming that cause them to stick. And when the piston rings stick, you get more pressure inside the crankcase, and that forces oil deposits back through the crankcase ventilation system into the intake manifold.
Well, no matter what theory you believe, the fact of the matter is, the deposits are caused by oil getting into the intake. And the harder you drive your car, well, the worse those deposits are going to be. Now I did something on this car that should do away with those problems all together. You see, normally the crankcase ventilation system goes from a port back there, here through the intake, right in behind the throttle body, and that’s where the crankcase fumes go. So what I did, I used what’s called a catch can; it’s actually an oil separator. And inserted that into the middle of the crankcase breather system. So this line goes back into the port, from the crankcase, and it comes up here, goes through this oil separator, this catch can, and then out and into the intake manifold. And what this does, this separates any oil out of those fumes, so the oil stays in the catch can instead of going back into the intake manifold. Now if you drive very gently, chances are you’d never get any benefit out of this. But if you drive your car hard, this could save a ton of money, over the life of the car. Something you might want to consider.


Look at my original post:
.5 teaspoon collected at 150 miles of MODERATE driving. Multiply that quantity of oil by thousands of miles. Without the oil separator, that oil would be ingested directly into the intake manifold causing unnecessary deposits in the manifold and on the intake valves.

Those are the facts!

 

If that rate stays linear you're looking at one quart of oil every 57600 miles. I'd guess the amount of oil you catch in the separator will decrease as the engine wears in from new (eventually going back up as the engine ages) Also, just because you captured .5 tsp doesn't mean .5 tsp would have made it into the valve train. A percentage would get trapped on the interior of the intake, etc. (still, not a great thing)

You might consider this "mod" to be worthwhile if there were many, long term reports of issues known to be caused by oil vapor in the intake, but I'm not sure it's that big of a problem.

If it makes you feel better, then sure, why not? I'm just not sold it's a necessary or beneficial thing.

 

I'd agree with elziffO. There are a lot of Fits driving around out there getting higher in mileage and so far there are simply no widespread reports of problems with deposit build up on the intake valves. Perhaps the mileage needs to get significantly higher from where most cars are now and this will be interesting to watch for in the years ahead. Until then though, all we have right now is a solution in search of the problem.

 

As a data point, I have a 14 Kia Forte with the 2.0 GDI engine. 50K on it now (bought new by me) and although there is much rumbling in the Kia community about GDI and the perils therein, I've not seen anything. My car occasionally has a rough idle, but then it'll be fine for days or weeks. That points more to sensors or electronics, IMO. Dump a can of Seafoam in the tank every so often and it'll keep things pretty clean.

 

I put one on today. I drove 15 miles and it has oil in it already:



I mounted it next to the windshield washer tank.

 

I changed the exit fitting to a 90 degree style to straighten out the bend in the hose. Much cleaner routing.



After 80 miles it has collected this much oil. It looks to be working.

 

Neat job! What type of catch can did you use? link please

 

Link:

JEGS Performance Products 52205K1: Air Oil Separator 4-1/2" Tall x 1-1/4" Diameter (NOT including fittings) Includes: | JEGS

 

where to buy the little one with the glass ?

 

Lol,hahaha, wut

 

Inspired by jhn's configuration, I installed mine last night. It's already trapped a visible amount of oil.

Could be placebo effect or the fact that the vacuum is cleaner, but the engine seems to be running more smoothly as though it's finally getting the right fuel/air mixture.

As someone who purchased their Fit, I'm glad to have a mod that enables preventative maintenance.