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I inspected front suspension as part of B13 service and found cracks in the front LCA busings (both sides, left side shown)
In addition, I've found inner shoulder wear on left front tire (shown after rotation to the right rear position)
Not sure if cracks in the bushing cause this type of wear: on my 87 Camry this kind of wear was present along with completely torn bushings and worn out inner tie-rod end joint as well as loose ball joint.
The tire service shop I'm heading soon for new set of tires offers free alignment check, however their machine may have questionable accuracy.
Here is the bushing of 2007 Fit from the junk yard; it had fairly new 15" tires without obvious irregular wear
The control arm was very easy to remove, compared to Toyota Corolla (much lesser torque on the fasteners)
It has cracks too but not as bad as on my car (BTW, looks like this car is out of state due to minimal sun damage)
I will be replacing bioth arms with one of the following brands:
Dorman
Moog
AC Delco professional (Rock Auto)
Nearly new OEMs from junk yard (a wish) if I will be lucky
Replacement bushings will be ideal, but they are not available and made procedure time consuming
My rear bushings sort of look like that at 171K now. None of the cracks seemed like they had any depth to them just a surface dry rot type crack starting. Could you detect any excessive movement in yours? I pryed around mine in every direction I could pry to make it move, with the suspension loaded and unloaded, and didn't see anything. The lower ball joint on the opposite didn't have any unusual movement only just a few hairline cracks in the rubber boot just starting but not through yet. One tie rod had some grease beginning to leak out and still no play, but I will replace anyway when I do struts as they're cheap.
I blew up your pictures. I would say mine is closer to the one you pulled. Yours looks like it has a deeper crack that continues around the bushing like it's broken through or close to it.
My rear bushings sort of look like that at 171K now. None of the cracks seemed like they had any depth to them just a surface dry rot type crack starting. Could you detect any excessive movement in yours? I pryed around mine in every direction I could pry to make it move, with the suspension loaded and unloaded, and didn't see anything. The lower ball joint on the opposite didn't have any unusual movement only just a few hairline cracks in the rubber boot just starting but not through yet. One tie rod had some grease beginning to leak out and still no play, but I will replace anyway when I do struts as they're cheap.
I am experiencing low speed toque steer and some memory steer when recovering from turns (has this on my 87 Camry when it turned 20 years old)
On my car all exposed rubber seems to wear at accelerated rate (rubber bellow for tailgate harness (replaced), both tie rod end boots (replaced) now the LCA bushings. This is most likely caused by outdoor on the sun parking for 11 years. Some cars I see on the junk yard are in much better condition (especially the last one). I guess I need an old small rugged GMC pickup truck with faded paint.
I am experiencing low speed toque steer and some memory steer when recovering from turns (has this on my 87 Camry when it turned 20 years old)
On my car all exposed rubber seems to wear at accelerated rate (rubber bellow for tailgate harness (replaced), both tie rod end boots (replaced) now the LCA bushings. This is most likely caused by outdoor on the sun parking for 11 years. Some cars I see on the junk yard are in much better condition (especially the last one). I guess I need an old small rugged GMC pickup truck with faded paint.
Sounds like yours are bad enough to allow the wheels to move in ways they aren't supposed to. I can't get mine to budge but good to know what to look out for.
Replacement for me is not an issue; finding a good honest alignment shop with accurate shipment is. Out off calibration equipment is the reason why sometimes after alignment the tires wear worse than before and off center steering wheel turns into the steady pull.
Replacement for me is not an issue; finding a good honest alignment shop with accurate shipment is. Out off calibration equipment is the reason why sometimes after alignment the tires wear worse than before and off center steering wheel turns into the steady pull.
I know what you mean I had my wife's Honda Odyssey aligned at a local tire/auto shop and even though they gave me a printout that showed the toe was off on the left front, I'm not convinced they adjusted anything as it seems to still pull to the left. I'm replacing the tires soon and will have it aligned again at a dedicated steering & alignment shop.
I had 2 free alignment checks before and after the replacement of tie rod end boots. While the front end reading matched (2 different shop) the second shop showed out of tolerances readings for the rear wheels: According to the shop technician, the "red" reading for RF toe was because the front wheels were not centered on the machine (not straight ahead position) Look on the rear readings!
On the positive note, replacement of both front LCA on my co-worker's 1997 Camry fixed uneven tire wear and off center steering wheel
BTW, looks like an arm I've pulled on PYP, has already been changed!
No numbers on the bushings rubber and no logo on the bracket may indicate aftermarket replacement arms, that starting to crack as well!
