Got the CEL code P2422 a few weeks back. 'Evaporative Emission System Vent Valve Stuck Closed'.


I definitely wasn't excited, as that sounds pretty serious. Some searching lead me to a video that suggests all you need to do is clean it out. This didn't do the trick for me. So I ordered the part from RockAuto and received it just two days later.

Tools Required:
- Jack and jack stands OR Ramps
- 10mm socket OR 10mm wrench
- Socket wrench OR impact driver for 10mm socket
- Flat Head screwdriver
- New Vapor Canister Vent Valve / Solenoid (2nd Gen part linked)
- (Optional) OBDII Scan Tool

First thing we've gotta do is jack up the left side of the Fit or roll it up onto some ramps.

Next, remove the large protective cowling that covers the fuel tank. This requires the removal of:
- 4x 10mm bolts around the edges of the cowling
- 1x fastener rivet / retainer clip


Once you have that off, look to just under the driver side door. That big black thing is what we're after.


We want to disconnect it. I found it easiest to remove all of the bolts, then the hoses and sensor.

This is held in by 3x 10mm bolts.

Here's the first bolt I removed (right arrow), which is located behind that piece sticking up and is pretty far up there (~6 inches or so). This bolt head was rusty on mine, so I replaced it with a non-rusty bolt. Also pictured here is the first hose that needs removed. Use a combination of wedging the Flat Head screwdriver in there and wiggling back and forth. Be sure not to use the screwdriver too forcefully - it's only being used to lift the hose a little to break the seal around the nipple that it's attached to.


Remove the sensor, which is located on top of the canister. You can totally wait to do this until all 3 10mm bolts are removed. About level with this, but on the bottom of the canister, is the second 10mm bolt that needs removed (not pictured).


Located at the end opposite the first bolt and hose are these two hose connectors and the third 10mm bolt. It's possible that there is a fourth 10mm bolt just to the right of this one, but I may have forgotten to put it back on after I took it off the first time.


Now that we have all bolts removed, scoot back out from under the car most of the way so that you can see the canister from the other side. Undo those two connectors. To do so, pinch the green tabs on one, and use the Flat Head screwdriver to push it off from the bottom. For the other one with the white plastic on the inside of the connector, just pinch the white bits and pull the black piece off. The white bits will stay on the nipple (see next photo for clarification). Disconnect the small rubber tube connecting to the back of the canister.


See how the white bit stayed on the nipple? This one can seem tricky, but it's actually the easiest one to remove.


Here's our new and old valves next to each other. Remove the two 10mm bolts and replace with the new one.


That's it! It's really easy and takes about an hour your first time, and half an hour your second time. While we're under here, replace any rusty bolts and any clips.

Three local shops quoted me a range of $600 - $1,500 to complete this job. I'm by no means experienced (as evidenced by my terrible photos, probably), and everything I do is learned from forums and videos. So do yourself a favor and save the money, and learn something new.

 

Thank you for this! On mine the tube circled in blue was completely chewed through by rats. Could you please help me out if you know what it's called and what it's supposed to go to? Much appreciated