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ATF drain plug

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Old May 12, 2007 | 09:07 PM
  #1  
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ATF drain plug

i'm trying to do drain and refill for automatic transmission. is there anybody have done this procedure? i'm not quite sure which one is drain plug for AT.
 
Old May 13, 2007 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by SK Ninja
i'm trying to do drain and refill for automatic transmission. is there anybody have done this procedure? i'm not quite sure which one is drain plug for AT.
If you were to lay down under the engine bay with head pointing to the rear of the car, the trans. drain plug is the blue colored socket head bolt at the bottom front edge of the trans. case. Bolt head points to the passenger side of car. You will need another sealing washer when you replace the drain plug, just like you do when changing engine oil.

When changing the ATF, only 3.5 US quarts will drain (2.4L) and need to be replaced. The total transmission capacity is actually 6.3 qts. (6.0L).
 

Last edited by manxman; May 13, 2007 at 12:45 PM. Reason: add comment
Old May 13, 2007 | 10:23 PM
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thanks alot manxman, you're the man

it's good to know that our little fit only need 2.4l to do drain and refill.
 
Old May 14, 2007 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by SK Ninja
thanks alot manxman, you're the man

it's good to know that our little fit only need 2.4l to do drain and refill.
My answer to you bothers me a little. With such a low volume to be drained and replaced, why bother? Most of the ATF, dirty and oxidized, is left still inside the transmission. Obviously, the torque converter holds most of the contents. That means that for a complete ATF change, as in when you switch to Synthetic ATF as I will, you need to have a transmission mechanic open the trans. up to reach and drain the torque converter.

Good luck!

Dave
 

Last edited by manxman; May 14, 2007 at 11:22 AM. Reason: correct spelling
Old May 14, 2007 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by manxman
If you were to lay down under the engine bay with head pointing to the rear of the car, the trans. drain plug is the blue colored socket head bolt at the bottom front edge of the trans. case. Bolt head points to the passenger side of car. You will need another sealing washer when you replace the drain plug, just like you do when changing engine oil.

When changing the ATF, only 3.5 US quarts will drain (2.4L) and need to be replaced. The total transmission capacity is actually 6.3 qts. (6.0L).
Correction--
I meant to say, passenger side of trans. case, bottom front corner.
 
Old May 14, 2007 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by manxman
My answer to you bothers me a little. With such a low volume to be drained and replaced, why bother? Most of the ATF, dirty and oxidized, is left still inside the transmission. Obviously, the torque converter holds most of the contents. That means that for a complete ATF change, as in when you switch to Synthetic ATF as I will, you need to have a transmission mechanic open the trans. up to reach and drain the torque converter.

Good luck!

Dave
Thats why I do a drain and fill, drive around to mix, drain and fill again.
 

Last edited by spreadhead; May 14, 2007 at 02:48 PM.
Old May 14, 2007 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by manxman

When changing the ATF, only 3.5 US quarts will drain (2.4L) and need to be replaced. The total transmission capacity is actually 6.3 qts. (6.0L).
3.5 quarts equals 3.3 litres not 2.4.
 
Old May 14, 2007 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by manxman
My answer to you bothers me a little. With such a low volume to be drained and replaced, why bother? Most of the ATF, dirty and oxidized, is left still inside the transmission. Obviously, the torque converter holds most of the contents. That means that for a complete ATF change, as in when you switch to Synthetic ATF as I will, you need to have a transmission mechanic open the trans. up to reach and drain the torque converter.

Good luck!

Dave

thanks for correction spreadhead.

so i guess, just one drain and refill will replace more than 50% of total AT fluid which sounds pretty good to me.
 
Old May 15, 2007 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by spreadhead
3.5 quarts equals 3.3 litres not 2.4.
You are right, of course. I don't think in metric, and was writing exactly what was stated in the Fit Service Manual. Good catch.
 
Old May 15, 2007 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by manxman
My answer to you bothers me a little. With such a low volume to be drained and replaced, why bother? Most of the ATF, dirty and oxidized, is left still inside the transmission. Obviously, the torque converter holds most of the contents. That means that for a complete ATF change, as in when you switch to Synthetic ATF as I will, you need to have a transmission mechanic open the trans. up to reach and drain the torque converter.

Good luck!

Dave
manxman, it's always better idea to put factory recommended fluid when it comes to ATF(honda z-1). Just do a simple drain and refill every 20000km or once a year rather than wait for something to happen and do a complete flush.

stick with honda ATF
do it every once a year

and u are good to go!
 
Old May 15, 2007 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SK Ninja
manxman, it's always better idea to put factory recommended fluid when it comes to ATF(honda z-1). Just do a simple drain and refill every 20000km or once a year rather than wait for something to happen and do a complete flush.

stick with honda ATF
do it every once a year

and u are good to go!
Thanks for the advice, SK, but I will use Amsoil Synthetic ATF, which is approved by Honda for Hondas. And in that regard, I will pay a transmission specialist to drain ALL of the fluid so as not to contaminate the new, clean, synthetic fluid with 1/2 of the old, dirty, mineral oil ATF.
 
Old May 18, 2007 | 03:10 PM
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yup, Amsoil is the only Honda-approved replacement ATF.

And no, u do not need to flush ATF every year. More like every 50k miles. (unless u go this far within a year, lol)
 
Old Jun 30, 2007 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by manxman
If you were to lay down under the engine bay with head pointing to the rear of the car, the trans. drain plug is the blue colored socket head bolt at the bottom front edge of the trans. case. Bolt head points to the passenger side of car. You will need another sealing washer when you replace the drain plug, just like you do when changing engine oil.

When changing the ATF, only 3.5 US quarts will drain (2.4L) and need to be replaced. The total transmission capacity is actually 6.3 qts. (6.0L).
Is the sealing washer for the ATF drain plug the same as the sealing washer used for changing oil? Just asking because I have some extra washers for changing the oil. Do you just refill the ATF through the dipstick hole? If so, I guess a special funnel will be necessary since there is not much space there. Thanks for all the great information! Changing the ATF didn't show up on my maintenance minder - but it's been exactly a year since we got our Fit.
 
Old Jun 30, 2007 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cndfit
Is the sealing washer for the ATF drain plug the same as the sealing washer used for changing oil? Just asking because I have some extra washers for changing the oil. Do you just refill the ATF through the dipstick hole? If so, I guess a special funnel will be necessary since there is not much space there. Thanks for all the great information! Changing the ATF didn't show up on my maintenance minder - but it's been exactly a year since we got our Fit.
Yes- It's the same washer. You're welcome for the info.- that's the purpose of the forums. Have fun with your Fit---
 
Old Jan 4, 2009 | 02:38 PM
  #15  
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Personately, when i drain fluid from an auto tranny, i disconnect the oil line from the oil cooler and start the car in neutral! When air bubbles are apparent in the fluid that is draining (Low level!), i put in a quart of brand new fluid and when it's empty again, i stop the car, connect the hose back and i fill it up with the proper fluid, start the car again and corect the level... That way, all of the fluid is new and you drain the shit that may end up in the cooler as well!! You may take the time to install an in-line oil filter if you wish so!! Easy and simple way!

Marko!!
 
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