Synthetic to conventional
New Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 19
From: Oradell, NJ
i just wasn't really sure about the synthetic. i know i don't need to change it now, but i just don't want to mess up the engine by changing over with 25k on it.
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,704
From: Second house on the left
When I bought my 06 V, the recommendation was to run dino oil for 2 changes (to assure proper break in) then go with Synth.
The conditions are a bit "muddier" now, since most common "synthetics" (Pennzoil Platinum, Mobil1) are now "Group III" synthetics, which means they are actually highly refined mineral oil. They still work like a Group IV Ester or PAO though.
To gain knowledge (and wile away some time) sign up at the BITOG forums. (BobIsTheOilGuy) It will make your head spin!
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 45
From: Chicago, IL
It's not bad for the car. I switched back from synthetic to conventional because I figure it costs the same amount of money (since you don't have to change as often) but conventional will get you a new filter more often so by my judgements that will leave me in better shape overall.
The car had 50k miles on it when it was totaled and had 4 oil analyses done with superior results across the board.
Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,888
From: Parañaque City, Philippines
I won a 4L can of FK/Massimo Super SS-X 10W-30 mineral oil from a January trackday as a prize.
A few weeks ago I had it replace my abused Royal Purple full-synth oil. Since it was about time to replace the oil anyway (it had seen three trackdays and daily driving), I decided to do this as an experiment.
So far, so good. Haven't taken it to any trackdays yet, but I do stretch the engine's legs a little from time to time and nothing noteworthy has happened. As long as you're aware of the reduced oil change interval for mineral oil, you and your engine should be fine.
A few weeks ago I had it replace my abused Royal Purple full-synth oil. Since it was about time to replace the oil anyway (it had seen three trackdays and daily driving), I decided to do this as an experiment.
So far, so good. Haven't taken it to any trackdays yet, but I do stretch the engine's legs a little from time to time and nothing noteworthy has happened. As long as you're aware of the reduced oil change interval for mineral oil, you and your engine should be fine.
Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 577
From: Conn
I'm an old fart who has gone thru numerous autos in the last 50 years. The engines I ran with Full Synthetic (Mobil One) lasted beyond the rest of the car.... over 200k. The cars were always junked even though the engines were running great... just because of repair cost. The engines I ran with petro oil died before the cars did. I junked them with bad engines.... usually around 175k. My preference is to have the good engined car, even though it may rattle going down the street. My suggestion is to run Mobil One.
I just el-oh-el'd.
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 89
From: GR, MI
I'm an old fart who has gone thru numerous autos in the last 50 years. The engines I ran with Full Synthetic (Mobil One) lasted beyond the rest of the car.... over 200k. The cars were always junked even though the engines were running great... just because of repair cost. The engines I ran with petro oil died before the cars did. I junked them with bad engines.... usually around 175k. My preference is to have the good engined car, even though it may rattle going down the street. My suggestion is to run Mobil One.
I agree with the above,
I use the following rule for few vehicles I have to take care of
Synthetic - if this is NOT a daily driver or sees lotsa short trips of under 5 miles most of the time. or extremely cold temps.
Dino or anything - if I drive it everyday and see mixed driving, I just make sure I change every 6 months of 5k miles,
Dmax truck - winter 5w40 mobil 1 or any syn oil in winter, and 15w40 in summer.
honda fit/ridgeline - 5w20 syn
I can buy 5 qts of PP or Valvoline Syn for about 18 to 20 $ at wallys, while 5qts of dino costs $13 to $15.
That is $5 difference, use your judgement.
Also, I read at bobistheoilguy, (bill from utah is an example) of users going 200k miles with dino,
my accord v6, 2000, is still going strong at 200k, 0-50k dino, 50-110k M1, 110k to 200k - dino, semisyn... just about anything.
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 473
From: Newcastle Wa
anyways, i do have a question for the engine oil experts: since the fit runs 5w-20, for instance, during one oil change, i put 5w-30, would that hurt the performance/gas milage to the fit? and that's just once, lets say i change it back to 5w-20 when next oil change due, would this move cause a major problem to the fit?!
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 184
From: SoCaL
you know the fit and jazz is almost the same car, right?!
anyways, i do have a question for the engine oil experts: since the fit runs 5w-20, for instance, during one oil change, i put 5w-30, would that hurt the performance/gas milage to the fit? and that's just once, lets say i change it back to 5w-20 when next oil change due, would this move cause a major problem to the fit?!
anyways, i do have a question for the engine oil experts: since the fit runs 5w-20, for instance, during one oil change, i put 5w-30, would that hurt the performance/gas milage to the fit? and that's just once, lets say i change it back to 5w-20 when next oil change due, would this move cause a major problem to the fit?!
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,704
From: Second house on the left
X2...
I run 0w-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, occasionally 5W-30 in our Fit and CR-V (both spec'd for 5W-20 dino in the USA).
what I buy depends on what is on sale...or rebated. These are all synthetic oils BTW...run up to 7 - 10K miles between changes.
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 473
From: Newcastle Wa
about synthetic, i was once told if i am not driving mad like on the track road circuit or anything, regular ones like conventional oils is fine with our engine, and synthetic might be too fancy for our little engine, [end quote. so i dont know, i started out moible 1 synthetic, for about a year, i am changing it back to conventional recently, so i guess it's to each of their own.
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,417
From: Capital Distric New York
you know the fit and jazz is almost the same car, right?!
anyways, i do have a question for the engine oil experts: since the fit runs 5w-20, for instance, during one oil change, i put 5w-30, would that hurt the performance/gas milage to the fit? and that's just once, lets say i change it back to 5w-20 when next oil change due, would this move cause a major problem to the fit?!
anyways, i do have a question for the engine oil experts: since the fit runs 5w-20, for instance, during one oil change, i put 5w-30, would that hurt the performance/gas milage to the fit? and that's just once, lets say i change it back to 5w-20 when next oil change due, would this move cause a major problem to the fit?!
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,417
From: Capital Distric New York
about synthetic, i was once told if i am not driving mad like on the track road circuit or anything, regular ones like conventional oils is fine with our engine, and synthetic might be too fancy for our little engine, [end quote. so i dont know, i started out moible 1 synthetic, for about a year, i am changing it back to conventional recently, so i guess it's to each of their own.
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,417
From: Capital Distric New York
Good to know, isn't it? Happy motoring.
New Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 8
From: Annapolis, MD
I just bought an 07 Fit with 60K and my wrench icon just turned on to tell me my oil had 15% life in it. Under the previous owner, the car was maintained by the dealership, but I'm thinking of doing the oil changes myself. I'm a total car maintenance newbie. (1) What oil should I get? (2) Is the "oil life" calculation based on mileage or on some other measure of the actual oil condition? (3) I couldn't find an exact mileage for changing in my owner's manual. If I change at 5,000 or 7,000, do I void my warranty? Not that there's much left on it, of course.
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,417
From: Capital Distric New York
I just bought an 07 Fit with 60K and my wrench icon just turned on to tell me my oil had 15% life in it. Under the previous owner, the car was maintained by the dealership, but I'm thinking of doing the oil changes myself. I'm a total car maintenance newbie. (1) What oil should I get? (2) Is the "oil life" calculation based on mileage or on some other measure of the actual oil condition? (3) I couldn't find an exact mileage for changing in my owner's manual. If I change at 5,000 or 7,000, do I void my warranty? Not that there's much left on it, of course.
1) Honda says 5W20. A good name brand will do along with the filter.
2) MM computes oil change on a variety of inputs. RPM, start-ups, temp and more I'm sure. It determines oil change based on your driving characteristics.
3) You will not find a scheduled mileage for oil change. Here's what the Maintenance Minder is all about: Richfield Bloomington Honda Serving Twin Cities, MN, New, Used Cars - MAINTENANCE MINDER SYSTEM
Follow the MM and you're good to go.
K_C_
