I see that Advance Auto Parts does not carry any of these coil parts in store stock,...but does carry the Ignition Coil Boot part of the Coil housing that you can order for about $15-$16 a coil (Regular $35, but priced w/ a coupon code) + shipping:




My (limited) understanding is that when the coil pack has issues, it is primarily the coils inside of the piece above that have gone bad.

Perhaps some here that have more experience with these coils could give more detailed information on the coil boot vs. coil pack differences, and the chances that simply replacing the boots would solve the same misfiring/hesitation problem as replacing entire coil packs.

With the coupon codes (given below) that Advance Auto currently has, you could end up replacing 4 coil boots @ for a good $75 + tax.



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great idea, you could be on to something.

 

Did you end up doing this? If so, how'd it work out for you?

 

I fully replaced one of them (because a "technician" broke it when he was taking it apart). The other 3 I used the Advance Auto part pieces, cleaned the pieces I reused with baking soda and vinegar to get rid of the corrosion, and fully reinstalled all 3.

I have pics and everything and planned on doing a more in-depth summary after enough miles, but thus far the installation has been just fine, great.

It actually made the engine light go away for a week. I will have to take it to an auto zone sometime soon to see if it's the Catalytic Converter like I was told last year,...but no annoying knocking or jumping anymore and they installed just fine so long as you're careful with the corrosion.

 

so has anyone else tried these because I would love it if they worked because mine is gettin pretty bad!

 

I really would like to know if this is true because my fit has been shuttering and hesitating like no other for the past 2 months and its driving me nutz. Don't know which coilpack it is or if it is even a coilpack, but I would definitely consider before dropping nearly 300 dollars for four all new COP assemblies.

 

You should have someone with an OBD2 code reader check it out for you... AutoZone will do it for free.... It seems to happen anywhere from 35000 to 90000 miles and some have said that improper valve clearance has an influence on when it occurs.

 

i had it checked the other but it wasn't throwing codes , mine has 75k miles on it. i think it needs a valve adjustment as well. the stutter seems to be more noticeable at stops or with the ac on.

 

For some reason the code for bad coil packs isn't able to be read except when it is occurring..... Some guys have gotten their cars to temporarily run smooth with new plugs but it isn't long before the problem reappears and they change out the coil packs... The windings in the coils can break but only separate under certain conditions like temperature, engine vibration frequency or load on the engine at certain RPM.... It has happened to so many people that have tried everything they could to avoid changing the coil packs but finally had to resign themselves into spending the money.. I know I will have to do likewise eventually.

 

I made sure when I last serviced the wires and plugs, I really lubed them up with the die-electric grease. I live in a really dusty area and that really fouls coils, boots, and plugs. Inspect them often.

 

I'd change all four. There are a few instances where members changed just the bad packs, but eventually ended up doing all four. The OE replacements look to be redesigned.

The Autozones here don't do scans anymore. AAMCO does though.

 

Rock Auto is selling them for ~$50 each right now.

I'm a klutz, and I managed to replace all four in about 1/2 hour.

Not worth paying a mechanic to do it!

P.S. My Fit now works like new!

There's pretty good directions on this site on how to do it.

 

My FIT was stuttering, no CEL ever, just misbehaving especially when the A/C is on. I have replaced the lower portion of the coil units in my '07 FIT Sport (102K miles) according to this thread. I took the coil units out, removed the lower half and cleaned them with vinegar followed by baking soda. There was quite a bit of oxidation on the electrodes. I bought my lower coil parts online at advance auto parts online. At first the stuttering/ almost misfire was worse. This went on for about 1 day, and then on day 2 my FIT was miraculously healed! I think perhaps the electrodes were still a little wet from my cleaning and finally dried all the way. No more stuttering! A/C can be on at full blast and the car runs like new! So far so good! Previously I had replaced the iridium spark plugs, and adjusted the valves which were out of spec, but this did not fix the stuttering problem. This coil trick seems to have done the job!

 

Hey, That''s great news ,, Semper Fi .

 

romeojunior and others who tried that method - still working out for you? I'd like to try this method, but not if it fails and then I have to go out and buy the full coil pack, too poor for that. Great find though, way cheaper than replacing the whole pack. Was it very difficult to replace just the boot? I can change plugs and whatnot but I'm no mechanic.
If you still have the pics I'd love to see them up.
Thanks!

 

Unfortunately, when the coil packs/plugs go its pretty well assured that you'll need to need mucho money.
You can try replacing just the plugs and if that doesn't fix the stutter coil packs. Plugs $10-15, coil packs $50 -75. If you have access to an OBDII code reader you might luck in with only one cylinder to 'repair'.
good luck.

 

I did this fix this morning. Three out of four packs showed quite a bit of corrosion once I got the boots off, but I when ahead and clean them the best I could using vinegar, baking soda and a tooth brush. It is is running better now, but we'll see how long it lasts. Anyone know if the part that the boot plugs into can be purchased separately? It would be nice if this doesn't work if I could just buy the other half of the part I need.
Thanks for the help.

 

I think they installed them without the dielectric grease. There was no sign of any when I replaced mine.

Could that have contributed to the quick demise?

 

the boot grease is just so it dose not stick to the plug, i was told not to use it

 

Hey there guys i changed my packs and plugs about a year ago and at the time didnt have money to put the oem plugs in. I got autolites and they're horrible it started misfiring so now i got the oe ngk one but my packs are coming apart i only got to change one plug how can i take the lower half out with out damaging it?