After 4 1/2 years my old white case yuasa battery was starting to get weak, based on the indicator and the longer cranks. I have about 350 watts of audio amps. I do have LED internal lights. I drive only about 6K a year, and my average drive is around 25 min. Plus DC doesn't get that cold.

Ok so I installed a new battery today the Deka / Big Crank ETX30L which is rumored to be the same as the Braille B3121. I got it for $97.95 free shipping, plus some Odyssey SAE terminals for $12.95 both from

http://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Cra...L-Battery.html

which is based in VA.

I also got some 6" J hooks - but they were too short, plus the OEM ones worked. The 10 inch ones might work.

6in Battery Hold-down Bolts (J Type): BatteryMart.com

A couple things. The SAE posts came with some washers, but I didn't use them. I just screwed the hold down bolt in the top then screwed the terminals into the battery. No loctite. We shall see if this is a problem.

Took out the old battery, negative terminal first, then the red positive. Removing the gigantic red cover on the fuse helps. When taking off the old J bars and battery holder, don't lose anything you'll need it all.

I decided to take out the cover and just put the battery right on the steel. The old J bars and hold down work. I used a the black spacer from my 6" j bar kit on the rear J bar (which is a maybe 1/2 inch longer).

It moves around a little bit when I really shove on it - but not to the point where it is touching anything. Can someone chime in? Should I put a rubber mat or something under the battery? Is it ok without the battery cover?

The best part is it leaves plenty of room for my T1R B-Max carbon intake. The side of the battery doesn't rub on the side of the intake, and the metal J-bar doesn't hit the filter anymore.

It started perfectly on the first try, I'll report back in 6 months on colder weather performance.

 

 

Oh yeah WTF should I do with the old battery? It still has some life in it, FS $20.

 

Ok... based on some googling the battery cover is designed to contain battery acid with the stock flooded battery in the event of a leak/explosion.

Since the deka / big crank is AGM I think going no cover is ok.

 

Ace Hardware Stores sell 12" X 12" sheets of 1/8" thick rubber at a low price. If your new battery ever does start to leak even a little, the rubber sheet under the battery will save the steel battery platform from corroding away. You would probably notice a leak before serious damage was done to the platform, but by then the corrosion has started. A little rubber sheet would be cheap insurance against damage that would be impossible to see underneath the battery.

 

The DEKA/ Big Crank is still running great. I recommend it.

voltmeter reads 12.5-12.6 resting voltage through it's first winter. I've started it with no problems even nights in the high teens / twenties, and after a week of not being used.

 

nice write up. i may have to get one of theses when i need a new battery

 

Update-

So this battery was installed June of 2012, it made it through one (mild) DC winter no problem. Including some nights in teens.

However today after a year and a half, I have a problem. This morning it turned weakly a few times but couldn't crank the engine. Two issues, I left the car for two weeks without starting it, and then on top of that it was very cold single digit temps.


SO...

If you live in very cold places this battery is probably not the best idea. I'm going to get a portable jumper and a trickle charger.

 

So this the third winter. Battery bought in Summer 2012, it's now spring 2015.
On my new BatteryMinder it is showing that has sulfication.

This winter 14/15 in single digit temps, the ETX30L battery died once after being left one week. I think it may have been due to a Bluetooth ODB scanner I accidentally left on the ODB Port. I charged it with a batterytender Jr. and it made it through the rest of the winter even with below 0 temps.

Last 13/14 winter the same thing happened in single digit temps for one week.

I do have an upgraded sound system with an amp and a sub amp, so that can't help. My OEM Yuasa lasted 5 years no problem and it was still not completely dead.

Considering a new one now, I think the batteryminder should be able to get it back, but I think it just has very low reserve for an upgraded sound system. Maybe the optima yellow top which has a bad rep lately, or the Miata battery.