Ask your Detailing Questions here:
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 47
From: New Jersey
For the carpets: Mix around one ounce of fabric softener into a 16oz bottle of water.Spray the mixture on the CARPETS, and not the SEATS. Use a latex glove and slide your hand across. It should life the hair and release the static in the fibers.
SEATS: Use the latex glove without the mixture.
Let me know how it works.
SEATS: Use the latex glove without the mixture.
Let me know how it works.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 47
From: New Jersey
Hello,
I would recommend learning yourself, and I suggest purchasing the book by Mike Philips, The Art of Detailing. He does an excellent job in explaining the procedures to properly maintain your cars finish.
PS. Claybar is an abrasive tool for removing pierced paint contaminants; therefore, you should never wax after you Claybar. You have to refine the surface and remove the imperfections the claybar leaves behind, so after you polish and refine the paint surface you can apply the wax.
I Recommend Collinite 845 (Wax)
Unfortunately, I do not have the time to explain step by step instructions, but I would be more than happy to properly detail your vehicle.
I would recommend learning yourself, and I suggest purchasing the book by Mike Philips, The Art of Detailing. He does an excellent job in explaining the procedures to properly maintain your cars finish.
PS. Claybar is an abrasive tool for removing pierced paint contaminants; therefore, you should never wax after you Claybar. You have to refine the surface and remove the imperfections the claybar leaves behind, so after you polish and refine the paint surface you can apply the wax.
I Recommend Collinite 845 (Wax)
Unfortunately, I do not have the time to explain step by step instructions, but I would be more than happy to properly detail your vehicle.
I love to detail my cars in general.
My question is, what's the best way to start and continue a good detail regiment? I bought my fit used and had it detailed, but they waxed without using a claybar.
What steps should I take to bring the paint back to a good starting point? Claybar the heck out of it? Buff?
As far as using products on there, which ones do you recommend for this? I live by an auto parts store and I'd like to use more professional products, but I'm afraid of using a buffer. As I haven't used one before. I can always get it done by the detailers at work, but I'd prefer to wax, claybar, and whatever else myself, so I know all the nooks and crannies were taken care of too.
My question is, what's the best way to start and continue a good detail regiment? I bought my fit used and had it detailed, but they waxed without using a claybar.
What steps should I take to bring the paint back to a good starting point? Claybar the heck out of it? Buff?
As far as using products on there, which ones do you recommend for this? I live by an auto parts store and I'd like to use more professional products, but I'm afraid of using a buffer. As I haven't used one before. I can always get it done by the detailers at work, but I'd prefer to wax, claybar, and whatever else myself, so I know all the nooks and crannies were taken care of too.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 47
From: New Jersey
Here are some examples of polishing outcomes:
Left side of this Bentley panel has been restored, but the right side has not.
Another example, but the left side of the hood has not been restores, and the right side has:
AFTER the ENTIRE car was polish using a three stage process:
Menzerna Power Gloss (Compound)
Menzerna Power Finish ( Less Abrasive polish)
Menzerna Super Finish ( Micro Abrasive polish)
Menzera Power Lock ( Paint Sealant)
Auto Finesse Passion ( High Quality European Wax)
Left side of this Bentley panel has been restored, but the right side has not.
Another example, but the left side of the hood has not been restores, and the right side has:
AFTER the ENTIRE car was polish using a three stage process:
Menzerna Power Gloss (Compound)
Menzerna Power Finish ( Less Abrasive polish)
Menzerna Super Finish ( Micro Abrasive polish)
Menzera Power Lock ( Paint Sealant)
Auto Finesse Passion ( High Quality European Wax)
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 47
From: New Jersey
I have received numerous questions in regards to headlight restorations, and I have opened a separate thread for the discussion.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...ml#post1189142
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...ml#post1189142
Hi Wanderer,
The best way to get rid of light scratches is to use an abrasive polish to finish down the imperfections, so they are level with the surface. If you do not feel comfortable polishing paint, I would suggest hiring a experienced detailer.
My Recommendation:
Orbital Polisher
Megs 105 (compound) and Megs 205 (less abrasive polish)
Orange, black and white Lake Country CCS 5.5 pad
Proper Split-Microfiber Towels
For example: I used a two stage correction process on this BMW 745 to smooth the imperfections, so they are level with the paint surface. Therefore, the majority of light imperfections are removed; however, some Random Isolated Deep Scratches will remain because it is unsafe to remove too much clear coat.
Before the swirling and other imperfections were removed:
[URL=http://s164.photobucket.com/user/bigaizsosexy/media/Kevin%20Gs%20BMW%20745i%203%20Step%20Correction/IMG_1056copy.jpg.html]
After the imperfections were removed.
[URL=http://s164.photobucket.com/user/bigaizsosexy/media/Kevin%20Gs%20BMW%20745i%203%20Step%20Correction/IMG_1059copy.jpg.html]
Moreover, Holograms are extremely common from the dealer because they do not use skilled detailers and practice progressive/fast pace detailing. Holograms are left from rotary buffing marks, which heats up the surface and leave buffing trails; however, the holograms are supposed to be removed with less abrasive polish before any type of last step product is used.
Lastly, perform the fingernail test. Many scratches may not appear deep, but if your fingernail clicks when you glide it across the finish you will need to measure the depth of the scratch.
PM me your location, and maybe I can service your vehicle.
Did I answer your questions?
The best way to get rid of light scratches is to use an abrasive polish to finish down the imperfections, so they are level with the surface. If you do not feel comfortable polishing paint, I would suggest hiring a experienced detailer.
My Recommendation:
Orbital Polisher
Megs 105 (compound) and Megs 205 (less abrasive polish)
Orange, black and white Lake Country CCS 5.5 pad
Proper Split-Microfiber Towels
For example: I used a two stage correction process on this BMW 745 to smooth the imperfections, so they are level with the paint surface. Therefore, the majority of light imperfections are removed; however, some Random Isolated Deep Scratches will remain because it is unsafe to remove too much clear coat.
Before the swirling and other imperfections were removed:
[URL=http://s164.photobucket.com/user/bigaizsosexy/media/Kevin%20Gs%20BMW%20745i%203%20Step%20Correction/IMG_1056copy.jpg.html]
After the imperfections were removed.
[URL=http://s164.photobucket.com/user/bigaizsosexy/media/Kevin%20Gs%20BMW%20745i%203%20Step%20Correction/IMG_1059copy.jpg.html]
Moreover, Holograms are extremely common from the dealer because they do not use skilled detailers and practice progressive/fast pace detailing. Holograms are left from rotary buffing marks, which heats up the surface and leave buffing trails; however, the holograms are supposed to be removed with less abrasive polish before any type of last step product is used.
Lastly, perform the fingernail test. Many scratches may not appear deep, but if your fingernail clicks when you glide it across the finish you will need to measure the depth of the scratch.
PM me your location, and maybe I can service your vehicle.
Did I answer your questions?
I'd have you do it but i'd have to fly you out to San Francisco
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 47
From: New Jersey
Anytime! That would cost way TOOOOOO much Money 
Thanks Bigaizsosexy, I figured it'd be a bit of work. There's a mobile detailer down the street from me that does good work that i'll probably flag down and see if he can take care of it. By the time I pick up all the materials and a buffer it'll probably be cheaper to just let a pro do it.
I'd have you do it but i'd have to fly you out to San Francisco
I'd have you do it but i'd have to fly you out to San Francisco
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 47
From: New Jersey
Your question is unrelated to auto detailing, and I cannot further help you. Please post your question in the wheel forum on the front home screen.
Thank you,
Andrew
Thank you,
Andrew
New Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 2
From: Napa, CA
I have a question regarding cleaning and waxing your car:
I used Blackfire's Wet Diamond full line of products on my Black 2013 Fit (Shampoo, Claybar, Polish, and Hybrid wax) and it came out great! I even used the expensive microfiber towels they recommended.
However, now I have a bunch of really nice, black streaked microfiber towels. Any recommendations on how to clean them properly? Just throw them in the washing machine with detergent? Or should I soak them by hand in multiple baths of clean water to try and get the cleaning solutions and wax out of them? I'd appreciate any advice, thanks!
Also, on a quick note -- maybe it's just Blackfire, but I felt the claybar wasn't that effective. Buffing by hand was much better at getting the caked on specks of dirt out. Also, it lodged itself into any hairline seams it could (Like on the top of my side mirrors). Is using a claybar really necessary? Or could I skip that step without losing too much "cleanliness". Thanks!
I used Blackfire's Wet Diamond full line of products on my Black 2013 Fit (Shampoo, Claybar, Polish, and Hybrid wax) and it came out great! I even used the expensive microfiber towels they recommended.
However, now I have a bunch of really nice, black streaked microfiber towels. Any recommendations on how to clean them properly? Just throw them in the washing machine with detergent? Or should I soak them by hand in multiple baths of clean water to try and get the cleaning solutions and wax out of them? I'd appreciate any advice, thanks!
Also, on a quick note -- maybe it's just Blackfire, but I felt the claybar wasn't that effective. Buffing by hand was much better at getting the caked on specks of dirt out. Also, it lodged itself into any hairline seams it could (Like on the top of my side mirrors). Is using a claybar really necessary? Or could I skip that step without losing too much "cleanliness". Thanks!
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 47
From: New Jersey
Hello Wayne,
Wonderful question, and blackfire wet diamond is a great paint sealant. However, washing your microfiber towels is fairly easy, but you need to use a strictly detergent based cleaner. For example, I use all free and clear because it does not contain any fabric softeners or dyes. The towels will be stained after use; however, the all free and clear ensures all of the product is removed from the towel (staining on the towels is normal).
Clay-barring is a necessary step in order to remove the pierced contaminants in your paint. I use Ultima's Paint Cleaning system because it does not leave clay streaking. It is pretty aggressive, so you will need to polish afterwards, and I suggest investing in a machine. If you are interested in purchasing a machine polisher, I have a spare Porter Cable 7424xp for sale, and it has only been used once; therefore it is relatively new. PM me if you are interested.
Wonderful question, and blackfire wet diamond is a great paint sealant. However, washing your microfiber towels is fairly easy, but you need to use a strictly detergent based cleaner. For example, I use all free and clear because it does not contain any fabric softeners or dyes. The towels will be stained after use; however, the all free and clear ensures all of the product is removed from the towel (staining on the towels is normal).
Clay-barring is a necessary step in order to remove the pierced contaminants in your paint. I use Ultima's Paint Cleaning system because it does not leave clay streaking. It is pretty aggressive, so you will need to polish afterwards, and I suggest investing in a machine. If you are interested in purchasing a machine polisher, I have a spare Porter Cable 7424xp for sale, and it has only been used once; therefore it is relatively new. PM me if you are interested.
I have a question regarding cleaning and waxing your car:
I used Blackfire's Wet Diamond full line of products on my Black 2013 Fit (Shampoo, Claybar, Polish, and Hybrid wax) and it came out great! I even used the expensive microfiber towels they recommended.
However, now I have a bunch of really nice, black streaked microfiber towels. Any recommendations on how to clean them properly? Just throw them in the washing machine with detergent? Or should I soak them by hand in multiple baths of clean water to try and get the cleaning solutions and wax out of them? I'd appreciate any advice, thanks!
Also, on a quick note -- maybe it's just Blackfire, but I felt the claybar wasn't that effective. Buffing by hand was much better at getting the caked on specks of dirt out. Also, it lodged itself into any hairline seams it could (Like on the top of my side mirrors). Is using a claybar really necessary? Or could I skip that step without losing too much "cleanliness". Thanks!
I used Blackfire's Wet Diamond full line of products on my Black 2013 Fit (Shampoo, Claybar, Polish, and Hybrid wax) and it came out great! I even used the expensive microfiber towels they recommended.
However, now I have a bunch of really nice, black streaked microfiber towels. Any recommendations on how to clean them properly? Just throw them in the washing machine with detergent? Or should I soak them by hand in multiple baths of clean water to try and get the cleaning solutions and wax out of them? I'd appreciate any advice, thanks!
Also, on a quick note -- maybe it's just Blackfire, but I felt the claybar wasn't that effective. Buffing by hand was much better at getting the caked on specks of dirt out. Also, it lodged itself into any hairline seams it could (Like on the top of my side mirrors). Is using a claybar really necessary? Or could I skip that step without losing too much "cleanliness". Thanks!
New Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 6
From: USA
In the event that you are set to sand them you will catch up with a shine or something to that affect. I propose to utilize a compound with an orange cushion, and catch up with a medium grating clean like Menzerna super complete or Meg's 205, and after you have evacuated the oxidation you can apply a sealant.
Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 113
From: india
Hi.. I know that for drying the car you would just pat the micro fiber towel over the paint to avoid swirls, as dragging the towel may also drag any leftover dust / grit particles between the towel and paint surface causing swirls. My question is if I have to just pat on the paint surface can I use a clean regular bathing towel to do this job? As the towel is big and can absorb water quite well, can I just spread the towel evenly on the wet surface without causing any swirls? It would save a decade if I did it this way
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 47
From: New Jersey
Hi.. I know that for drying the car you would just pat the micro fiber towel over the paint to avoid swirls, as dragging the towel may also drag any leftover dust / grit particles between the towel and paint surface causing swirls. My question is if I have to just pat on the paint surface can I use a clean regular bathing towel to do this job? As the towel is big and can absorb water quite well, can I just spread the towel evenly on the wet surface without causing any swirls? It would save a decade if I did it this way
Hello,
I do not suggest dragging the towel across the paint because it will drag any contaminant across the paint surface. Just pat dry, but I would suggest drying your vehicle with an electric leaf blower to minimize drying induced marring. You can sheet the water off the vehicle with a plain hose.
NO, do not use a bath towel. You will cause micro marring from the coarse cotton fibers. Use a micro fiber drying towel and pat the spots.
New Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1
From: japan
hi, this is my first time to detail a car properly. Right now I have a car shampoo with wax, claybar, turtle wax ice liquid synthetic wax, turtle wax ice synthetic polisher, and some microfiber cloth.
Im a little confused with the process, is it wash-clay-wax-polish or wash-clay-polish-wax?and how many coats of wax should i apply? is there a better way to do this. thanks.
Im a little confused with the process, is it wash-clay-wax-polish or wash-clay-polish-wax?and how many coats of wax should i apply? is there a better way to do this. thanks.
Last edited by voodoodoll; Oct 21, 2013 at 07:23 AM.
Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 305
From: Hawaii
Just helping a fellow detailer out, the OP can feel free to add anything else:
Waterless car washes are great for upkeep. Personally, I will always go with the traditional wash with a heavily soiled car. There are people that use WW on filthy cars and you CAN clean them. It is, however, a personal choice if you wish to risk the chance of scratching your paint. WWs are the most lubricated compared to quick details/rinseless washes but are not scratchproof by any means (well to be fair, NO method is entirely 100% scratch proof).
That being said, because I care for my cars religiously, I WW my car when I hit a light drizzle or have light dust on my car. Anything outside of that, I like to get a full wash (pre-spray, pre-soak, then wash).
Meg's has an OTC product now that's a WW. I actually by a concentrate (Ultima Waterless Wash Concentrate) and always dilute it to a WW ratio. You save money in the process when you buy a concentrate.
It goes wash-clay-compoud-polish-(wash)-seal/wax. General rule of thumb, two coats is usually the "limit" as far as protecting your car. You can either seal-wax, seal-seal, or wax-wax. I personally seal-wax, to get the protection of a sealant, but the pop of a wax.
Without going into further depth, sealant and wax (and determining between the two) is another topic in itself. All you need to know is the order and you'll be fine. Defining the terms and identifying a product affects more how often you'll need to re-protect the car.
That being said, because I care for my cars religiously, I WW my car when I hit a light drizzle or have light dust on my car. Anything outside of that, I like to get a full wash (pre-spray, pre-soak, then wash).
Meg's has an OTC product now that's a WW. I actually by a concentrate (Ultima Waterless Wash Concentrate) and always dilute it to a WW ratio. You save money in the process when you buy a concentrate.
hi, this is my first time to detail a car properly. Right now I have a car shampoo with wax, claybar, turtle wax ice liquid synthetic wax, turtle wax ice synthetic polisher, and some microfiber cloth.
Im a little confused with the process, is it wash-clay-wax-polish or wash-clay-polish-wax?and how many coats of wax should i apply? is there a better way to do this. thanks.
Im a little confused with the process, is it wash-clay-wax-polish or wash-clay-polish-wax?and how many coats of wax should i apply? is there a better way to do this. thanks.
Without going into further depth, sealant and wax (and determining between the two) is another topic in itself. All you need to know is the order and you'll be fine. Defining the terms and identifying a product affects more how often you'll need to re-protect the car.
Last edited by jdmj0; Oct 22, 2013 at 04:02 AM.
New Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 13
From: New Jersey
I work in the pinelands. Let's just say, the trees like to "spit" all over my car and windows. Do you have any suggestions to keep the pine sap from constantly sticking to all the windows? If not, what is the best way to get all of the sap off without having to wash my car every few days?
Thank you
Thank you
Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 305
From: Hawaii
I work in the pinelands. Let's just say, the trees like to "spit" all over my car and windows. Do you have any suggestions to keep the pine sap from constantly sticking to all the windows? If not, what is the best way to get all of the sap off without having to wash my car every few days?
Thank you
Thank you