I own a 2008 Fit Sport five speed manual, I bought it at 52,362, it now has a little over 75,000 on it. About a week ago the CEL came on. Autozone read the codes for me, one low battery (replaced since) and a repeated Cylinder 3 Misfire. I bought some new spark plugs because I wanted to upgrade anyway. When I came to #3, as you can see from the pic, I had no problem seeing why the CEL was coming on. I replaced the plugs in 1,2 and 4 no prob (I will be going back and replacing the coils as well once I get through the immediate problem at hand) but I still can't get the plug out of 3. I got most of the crap out, but I've been working on it for three days (after work etc.) and before I spend anymore money on tools, I'd like to see if anyone on here has any ideas because I'm getting a tiny bit frustrated at this point. When I finally got the biggest of the chunks out tonight I thought I was home free. Thing is there's still enough burnage in there that I can't get the socket completely on the plug to hug it and pull it out. I can get it on enough to turn it (finally) but it's not coming out.

My idea that seems easiest in theory is to pour a little acid or chemical of some kind that will melt or destroy the plastic/rubber but won't damage the aluminum. I have a shop vac to suck any debris and/or liquid out. I've been doing that as I go anyway. The other idea I have is to get a metal circular brush that could fit into a drill or cordless. I've already checked, there's no way I'm getting my cordless to fit in the space I have, but perhaps I could get the brush-bit and rig a sort of handle on it. I don't want to use too much power. Last resort at this point I think is to take it to a machine shop. Super last resort to take it directly to Honda but I feel like I'm so close!

Any ideas or thoughts? I'd really appreciate it. Thank you.

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Had the same issue in a different way recently. The rubber boot in the spark plug wrench decided to break free installing a new plug and got entangled between the wall and the top of the plug. I couldn't get enough socket on the plug to remove the plug again. The rubber boot was in the way.

Final solution was to torch the socket until it got screaming hot, immediately put it over the plug head to burn as much rubber as possible, and repeat. Took about four times but finally got enough rubber burned to get enough socket leverage to remove. Then I had problem #2 - removing burnt parts of rubber boot from the well.

Good luck!

 

I second the torching of a socket. Obviously dont use a sparkplug socket, the rubber inside of it will burn up.

Dont worry about the coil bits. the combustion cycles during engine startup will clear it.

 

Thanks. That idea has crossed my mind more than once. I wish the cylinders faced out instead of in, such a pain in the arse stopping to looking in a mirror all the time. Anyway, feel like I'm getting close, I'll let you know how it turns out. My Civic is running great, about to go over 205K, and I can walk to work, so at least I have the time. Just need to beat the cold snap.

 

The good news is I got the plug out. Boy was I happy. Made dinner, pet the dog, sat back ready to sail into the bliss of the downhill side and then the phone rang. My buddy used to own a 1991 SI and worked on it himself for years, he's my first contact for advice. He told me the reason this could have happened is that the thread in the cylinder is stripped and the combustion leaked around it. After a few minutes of denial and a growing pain in my gut, I immediately ran to try and install the new plug and sure enough, nothing. Just kept spinning. Then I finally took a closer look a the plug I pulled out and I could see it was messed up. I was so happy to get it out that I didn't even look at it.



So anyone know a good machinist? That's the next step right? find someone who can re-thread it because I know I'm not getting into that. Does anyone have any idea how much that will cost?

Here's what I think happened. See, me in my impulsive ways didn't shop around when I bought my Fit. My Civic needed a tune up and I figured it was getting to be time to pull the trigger. I found this car used with 52K at a Chevy dealership. I didn't think much about the Chevy part, just that it was exactly what I wanted and it's not like Chevy built it. Thing is I think they're the ones who screwed the plug back in wrong when they were looking things over before resale. I noticed the screws had been taken off before when I first looked things over, I was curious about that. I didn't believe the previous owners would be messing around under the hood. I don't know them, but their address is still in the owners manual and it just doesn't seem likely. If they were messing around, it would be to upgrade, these are the original plugs, are they not? Besides that there's no other evidence of after market activity or even interest. They traded it in when it got over 50K because they didn't want to mess with things like that. Think about it. Chevy dude needs to do this before it goes on the lot, a car he's not familiar with, and the it's not like they're easy to get to. Probably fat and hung over, late for lunch. I think this is the result of a rush job by someone who really should have just read up on it before messing with it.

LESSON: NEVER BUY A HONDA FROM A CHEVY DEALER

I think I will make that my signature

 

I doubt any dealership would remove the sparkplugs before sale. They would only do that if they were diagnosing a misfire and the coils all checked out.

looks like you only need to chase the top part of the threads. See how the bottom threads are still good?

Looks like whoever did remove the plugs, they dropped them into the hole, rather then guiding them in with a proper plug socket. dropping them smashed the top few threads.


the cheap way is to find the exact tap pitch you need and order JUST that tap on ebay or such, should be roughly $20-30 depending on material of tap.

The expensive way is to take it to the dealership and tell them to fix it, and end up paying 4 digits out of your wallet.


go to walmart, grab the cheapest plug that says it fits, probably an autolite copper, and take it to a machineshop. Tell them you need something to clean up the threads. bring the bad plug with you.



Should be straightforward repair. dont worry about the metal shavings when cleaning the threads with the tap, an aircompressor and blowgun with a long thin tube can blow them out. Or a vacuum.

EDIT the reason its just spinning is because its not getting past those fubar'd threads.

 

Thank you for that post, sounds like you know what you're talking about. Have some research and calls to make, but I did call Gustman Honda in Appleton on my way to work this morning to get an idea. Service dude said if the head doesn't need to come off, it'd be something like $250. That's fine for me. If the head DOES need to come off, then more like $1000. If it's so bad the it needs a new head, then something like $3500. From what I've gathered from what you told me, it's not as bad as I initially thought. But one thing he did say, and I'm not sure how big of a compromise it is, but the service guy said the threads would never be as strong and it's more likely to happen again after re-threading. That makes basic common sense to me, but it also makes me want to get it fixed and then unload it. I love this car, I hope it doesn't turn out that way. Anyhow, I want to call around and check up on the parts you mentioned (at least to see) and then I'll post again. Thanks again for your help, it's been a great learning experience if nothing else.

 

he is correct in saying the threads will loose some strength. BUT if its only those top few, then you simply need to stop yourself from overtightening, and you will be fine.

Service guys tend to over do it over the phone lol

 

I don't think I'm up for doing this myself, just don't have ideal conditions and space, and it's about comfort as well. But I did find an import specialist I feel good about, I want to to take it to them to at least look at and get an estimate. I spoke with them on the phone yesterday, it's about 7.5 miles from my house (no highways). I am wondering if there's anyway I can drive it that distance (low speeds)? If I put the plug back in the hole, cut the bad coil off and seal it up, can I drive it there with out a tow?

 

dont bother trying to put the plug back it, it will make things worse.

Unplug the coil so the ecu knows that cylinder is dead, and maybe it will be smart enough to shut off that cylinders fuel injector as well.


Drive it 3-cylinder'd in 2nd gear going about 30mph and you should be fine.

Its going to sound VERY bad, but truest me, Ive driven a d15b2 on 2 cylinders, and it is possible lol. Extremely rough ride, but 7 miles aint far

 

the ECU will not cut injector ion this car it does it only on 6 cylinder cars!
the plug could be not tightened from the beginning.